Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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You can do that from the playing with the patterns. I have already figured out many parts to the shoes just by making up some different versions. The idea of buying the shoes is to have the most accurate parts. Again, in a once size only option regardless if they are the real soles or my V2s. And do we even know what size these are?

So far, the has been a cloth similar to the V2 uppers, but nothing quite like the 2011 MAGs.

They're 12s as far as I know.

By the way, the flat patterns DON'T form perfect Mags. I've been doing some test while away from the board and they need to be formed over a last to get the curve of the toe. Since I didn't have lots of free time, I had to choose tiny projects like that to focus on.

...also, my original K-Mag Re-upper pattern actually used the proper seam points for the structure of the uppers. Here's the results of one of my tiny projects:

Screen Shot 2015-09-15 at 1.11.43 AM.png

And once my work-work is done (In about 2 weeks) I'm going to be working on uppers again using a new technique that should eliminate the need for these patterns, and make a more durable shoe, even though it will add a little more effort up front.

-Nick
 
They're 12s as far as I know.

Well that ends that idea. If they were 10s or smaller, maybe worth considering.

By the way, the flat patterns DON'T form perfect Mags. I've been doing some test while away from the board and they need to be formed over a last to get the curve of the toe. Since I didn't have lots of free time, I had to choose tiny projects like that to focus on.

I think they do, but your right, you need formers to get them to hold their shape and you need materials that can bend in two directions at one time. Paper does not do this very well. Because this shoes is basically non self supporting cloth, you need an substructure under the shoe first. Multi-layers of some materials can work to make them self support and do away with some of the substructure.

...also, my original K-Mag Re-upper pattern actually used the proper seam points for the structure of the uppers. Here's the results of one of my tiny projects:

View attachment 528821

And once my work-work is done (In about 2 weeks) I'm going to be working on uppers again using a new technique that should eliminate the need for these patterns, and make a more durable shoe, even though it will add a little more effort up front.

-Nick

I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
 
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My tester upper (simple craft EVA Super77'd to a layer of fabric and a generic Air Force I look alike midsole.) I heated the toe with the slightest amount of heat. I used an iron and hovered above the upper (inside out, the fabric not in harm's way) heated just enough to soften and shape the foam. I don't recall the exact temperature, though.

Once heated, I wrapped the front of the upper around the front of the midsole, taking the shape of its surroundings, that way it's basically tailored to that midsole once it cools and keeps that shape. Then, since its slightly bigger than the inside of the sole, it'll be nice and snug against it, making gluing easier and not dealing with a stiff material as would a paper template. This midsole doesn't rise like the MAG does, so it may be easier with a MAG midsole for gluing the upper to it, because a deeper midsole has more clearance than the one i tried it on. Now, EVA gets pretty hot, and this shoe would be killer to wear around for even 10 minutes. I know this because I actually made a few other custom shoes with an EVA inner frame and boy those got warm quick! No breathing whatsoever! So a Nike MAG made of EVA wouldn't be the best, that is if it were to be worn. As strictly display, yeah it can work. I have an idea for using the 1989 method with the automotive foam, and keeping parts rigid to keep form and not so flimsy, and I also found some "head rest foam" that may fit the bill. What's really stopping me from continuing with experimenting is that I don't have any other midsoles to try it out on, and my grey fabric is in one of my bins, somewhere in the storage unit lol.
 
That is a good shape on the toe. One the best of my projects, I found that making foam inserts helped the toe take a proper shape. The other technique is to fold the edges under the toe as well.
 
AHHHHHH!!! These were the custom painted MAG's that were the black and gold. someone ended up stripping off the paint....WTF?????!!!!!!! Now the lights don't work, the paint has been destroyed and the shoes are WORTHLESS!!

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Nearly impossible to save those MAGs, such a ******* knowing there will never be another edition of them ...
 
Finally got my refund for the wrong size black pair i ordered.

I just saw a photoshoped pair of mag that makes me wonder if i really should bother myself doing a "remake" of jedifyfe version without the footwear logo and EL panel for the heelcups or if i should go for an even more simple version like this one

blackfridaymag.jpgor this one Sans titre-1.jpgJedifyfe's customs photoshoped

* White Swoosh white EL panels
* Clear soles from cavx
* White EL panels on the heelcup bubble or white LEDs (if i feel like doing it due that i'm a noob at soldering)
* White EL panels in the soles
* White light splatter

I had an even more crazy idea when i saw this video, and you guys are probably are going to say that i am totally crazy to even dare to think about this but look at this video.


And on this video you can see how the OLED panel reacts when cutted at 1:10


Doesn't it look a ton better than EL, well it's probably overpriced for now, but damn, no more torches needed "need a light ? got my mags !" xD

I made a big walk with shoes that i painted the soles and i can tell you do not paint your soles if you plan to make your mags a daily wear, it doesn't crack but get easyly removed, dye products only will stay in place.
 
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So light paper is now real? I saw this about 12 or 18 months back and was blown away by the possibilities. Does it still need the inverter or is it all DC?

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Any suggestions on making the replica magsmore comfortable to wear?

In what way? A sock liner over the factory part is a good start. Because I removed the batteries, I fill the cavity with EVA foam, but will get silicone to fill the cutout soon as the EVA has compressed faster than I thought it would.
 
* White Swoosh white EL panels
* Clear soles from cavx
* White EL panels on the heelcup bubble or white LEDs (if i feel like doing it due that i'm a noob at soldering)
* White EL panels in the soles
* White light splatter
If they are a wear pair, then a small peice of EL sheet for the bubble is fine. The point is, these shoes need something glowing there, or they don't look complete. Soldering 2 terminals is easier than 14 and an all EL system extends the battery life (out past 10 hours?).
 
If they are a wear pair, then a small peice of EL sheet for the bubble is fine. The point is, these shoes need something glowing there, or they don't look complete. Soldering 2 terminals is easier than 14 and an all EL system extends the battery life (out past 10 hours?).

Im probably going to do a display pair with the EL for the ankle bubble. I don't even care anymore. LEDs never turn out how I want them. Maybe colored rubber mock LEDs can be made just for the look. Would that be possible?
 
Thanks bud. These are probably the best toe slims I've ever done, so clean. I might have to keep them...LOL ;)

They do look awesome. Have you done a sock toe yet or do you still leave the toe box in place?

What size are they?

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Maybe colored rubber mock LEDs can be made just for the look. Would that be possible?

Yes it is. I am all out of Urethane right now, but with last drips I could get out of the bottles, I ran a test with clear pigments and whilst I made mine too dark, the idea works.
 
They do look awesome. Have you done a sock toe yet or do you still leave the toe box in place?

What size are they?

No sock toe. Though I liked the sock toe on the real props, the fabric on these are not as stretchy as it should be. I keep the rigid RD look.

These are size 11.
 
No sock toe. Though I liked the sock toe on the real props, the fabric on these are not as stretchy as it should be. I keep the rigid RD look.

These are size 11.

I found the sock toe (only the box removed, both upper and lower fabric left intact) way more comfortable than when the toe box is in the shoe. It doesn't slump like the movie prop because of the dual layers.

I just got US11s in, so it will be sole stripping some time today.
 
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