Ghetto casting

juno

Sr Member

• Jul 31, 2006

• #1

I'm all out of silicone and I want to do a casting of a non-hardening (non-sulphur) clay piece that I'm hot to finish. I want to cast it in resin. Any ideas?

Unless someone knows a shop in Cincinnati that consistently sells silicone. (The Hobbytown here sometimes has it, and sometimes doesn't.)

 

Jimbo890

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2006

• #2

On another board I read somewhere, there is a recipe for silicone mold material made from hardware store silicone caulk. IIRC, water is added in a certain ratio to react the curing catalist, and the result is a silicone mold on the cheap. You might want to PM Starkids1990 for more details.

 

rigormortis

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2006

• #3

I've used it for small & quick projects. It's not as durable as the real thing, but works in a pinch. Here's the recipe...

10oz tube GE Silicone I or II Caulk
50 drops Glycerine per tube (catalyst)
1-5 drops acrylic paint (to aid checking mixing)

Sets up quick, but remains workable for about 10-15 minutes. Smooth with icecube while setting (water will not effect the curing).

Hope that helps.

 

juno

Sr Member

• Jul 31, 2006

• #4

Have you ever had it fail? I'm so tempted to try it, but I don't want to ruin my piece.

 

Kylash

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jul 31, 2006

• #5

is Glycerine something you can get separate at a hardware store? Im not familiar with what it is

 

rigormortis

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2006

• #6

Never had it fail, but have had it stick to the piece like a mushy gummi bear if the mixture was not mixed properly. A little soap and water cleans it right up.

You can get glycerine from any drug store (doubt you'll find it in a hardware store). Women use it for a base for hand-made lotions.

Please only use this knowledge for your own work, not to rip others off. People work too hard for months to have someone whip up a little silicone for a few bucks and rip them off.

 

hydin

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jul 31, 2006

• #7

also, baby enemas.

ive used the quick/dirty way to mold before. the only thing i can say is dear sweet god it reeks, but it does pick up a lot of detail. make sure you are wearing gloves, and make triple sure you check the seals and make sure there are no air pockets.

chris

 

rigormortis

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2006

• #8

Agreed. Use it only in a very well ventilated area - or your garage or workshop will reek for weeks. It's probably poisinous as well.

 

hydin

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jul 31, 2006

• #9

nah, its just vinegar/acetic acid from what i can tell. that or a close relative of it.

it just reeks horribly. use a fan, use .... febreeze, use something. this stuff reeks worse than castincraft resin does when its curing.

chris

 

dkwd

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2006

• #10

Is the Glycerine needed?
I thought Thorston James said that one could use silicon silicone as a mold in a pinch. I'd have to check again, but I don't recall him mentioning have to mix it with anything.

That said, I haven't tried it yet.

David

 

rigormortis

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2006

• #11

It acts as a catalyst to cure it faster, otherwise you'd have to wait several days for a thick layer to fully dry. Plus it makes it tougher than plain caulk, which you could rip with your hands. This ensures it's a little tougher.

 

SurferGeek

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jul 31, 2006

• #12

Juno... if it's truely something you don't want to ruin, wouldn't it better to wait than to have to resculpt the piece? Unless it only took you a short time to sculpt it in the first place.

 

juno

Sr Member

• Jul 31, 2006

• #13

Gosh SurferGeek, kill me with logic

Well, I asked, and Buddha provided. But I'm definitely going to try the silicone caulk method on SOMETHING.

 

SurferGeek

Sr Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jul 31, 2006

• #14

<div class='quotetop'>(juno @ Jul 31 2006, 03:25 PM) [snapback]1291458[/snapback]</div>

Gosh SurferGeek, kill me with logic
[/b]

Click to expand...

I try... :lol

 

Matsuo

Sr Member

• Jul 31, 2006

• #15

<div class='quotetop'>(juno @ Jul 31 2006, 05:25 PM) [snapback]1291458[/snapback]</div>

Well, I asked, and Buddha provided. [/b]

Click to expand...

Hey I know I've probably gained a few, but Buddha?...Come on. :cry

I have indeed provided and am prepared to do the same if called upon again for any of my brothers and sisters.
I enjoy making things for people and raking in the piles of delicious money from the fruits of my labor... :rolleyes ...but my truest joy is being able to empower my people to find their own way.

M

 

motman241

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2006

• #16

I have done the caulk method - buy 100% clear, silicone caulk.... coat the item in petrolium jelly, squirt caulk all over it. Done. But, yes, it does take a long time to cure. I'll have to try the glycerine thing.

 

C

clownluv15

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2006

• #17

do you HAVE to coat it in petroleum jelly or will a clear coat be enough?

 

motman241

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2006

• #18

Silicone sticks to EVERYTHING (almost). The petrolium jelly on the project will release it when the silicone mold has cured.

 

Boba Frett

Sr Member

• Aug 1, 2006

• #19

Use clear acrylic spraypaint, and Babylax is the brand name for the Glycerine.

I use to do the water method, but the Glycerine and latex works alot better.

I live in Covington, and if you want to see how it works I can show you how I just done one

 

C

clownluv15

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2006

• #20

so should i just mix a little bit and test it on a small piece of my work and see if it sticks?show how it works.