Soldering Equipment Recommendations for New Prop/Model Builders?

Hello,

My experience is limited to some mediocre model building, and that many years ago. I’m looking at a couple of prop/model builds that include electronics kits, and would benefit from the collective experience of the group.

What suggestions and recommendations would you have for someone looking to purchase a soldering iron? It looks like there are a couple of different configurations, varying wattage, etc.

Thank you in advance for your wisdom!

I've used Weller brand soldering irons for years and they haven't let me down. I particularly like their SL series which has both interchangeable tips and interchangeable heating elements. The 23 watt version is fine for small parts and electronics work, the 45 watt version with the wider chisel tip is good if you are soldering thicker brass parts. The nice thing about the SL is you can buy the 23 watt complete iron, then just buy additional heating elements rather than entire separate irons. You could get a variable temperature soldering station but those are pricey. Soldering irons are like any other tool, don't buy the cheap versions unless you want to replace it! The Weller SL costs about $50 but mine are still going after more than 20 years of frequent use.

Buy a soldering stand as well, like the Weller PH100, convenient and safe.

If you are soldering non-electronics, brass and copper, use an acid core solder, or a liquid acid flux. For electronics only use rosin core solder.

Good luck.

Like Dave said, Weller makes some good soldering irons. Attached are images of everything you need to get started.

One tip: Many say use a wet sponge to keep the iron clean. I've found this does not work well and might even encourage problems. Use a brass tip cleaner (see attached image). Also, use tip tinner religiously. Use it before you solder to prep the iron, and use it again before you turn the iron off and put it away to keep the tip clean and protected. Also, have spare tips in different sizes and shapes as they do eventually wear out.

I've used everything from American Beauty resistance solders on down and my favorite go to modeling workhorse is the Hakko. Superb engineering and quality, great temp control and a plethora of different tips. The base station is well designed and it's not too expensive for what you get.

Avoid the cheap stuff you'd find on eBay, it's something you hold in your hand that gets very hot, not a time to skimp, especially if you want to do electronics. I can pinpoint a temp for SMD work with no problem with the Hakko.

I've used everything from the cheapo soldering irons to what I have now, a Pace MBT SensaTemp, that is just ridiculous. I use it for everything from bending thin strips of wood for wooden ships to wood burning to stained glass, and of course soldering/reworking magical electrical pixie type things.

For someone just getting into it, I would highly recommend something adjustable. This way, you don't have to worry too much about matching the solder to your iron. Get a solder, adjust temp until it melts and do whatever you need to. Also, stay away from the cheap stuff. You get what you paid for and the last thing you want is something getting really, really hot in your hands. Giggity.

As you learn you'll figure things out, so don't worry too much about it.

Actually, using a wet sponge is preferred in order to keep a clean tip while soldering. You use the sponge to clean excess solder from the tip and immediately re-tin the tip with solder. When you are through with the task you should, once again, clean the tip over a wet sponge and again re-tin it before putting it away. What I do is turn the iron off and clean the iron on the sponge and continue with re-tinning. I'll do this a couple of times until the tip cools down and the tip has solder all over the tip. There are times when the tip gets flux on it that doesn't clean off with a sponge. I then use the paste flux to clean that off and go back to the sponge and re-tin. Keeping an iron clean and tinned are THE MOST important in soldering. Also realize that solder flow with heat. You don't want to blob solder on a joint. You want it to "Flow" along a heat path. I seen many a video where people don't know how and am surprised if they don't have a problem with cold solder joints as time progresses. A cold solder joint may not show up for quite a while. This was actually a problem in electronics when hand soldering was done. After some time there would be a problem with the electronics and it was nothing more than a "cold solder" joint. The best examples would be to watch someone do silver soldering. You can see how they allow the solder to "flow" where it needs to be. For solder removal I use a . Soldapullit. There are different brands and they use a suction to remove the solder. Solderwick has a problem in that it can take too much heat to remove solder, depending upon the application, especially circuit boards. If solder doesn't seem to flow properly you should remove the solder and re-do it. I use a Weller WES51 soldering station and have never had to change a tip. I've used them for decades and had used them daily and constantly in a job. When I started with this hobby I bought a cheaper one at an Electronics supply store and the tip was eaten up in no time. After a short time I went and bought the Weller like the ones I had always used. The last job I had used the Hakko brand soldering station and desoldering station. They seem to be decent quality. I still prefer the Weller. A desoldering station would be nice but in this application the cost isn't justifiable. It is more practical in a repair environment. The Soldapullit is sufficient in this environment. I don't know WHY the text didn't format.

DaveG said:

If you are soldering non-electronics, brass and copper, use an acid core solder, or a liquid acid flux. For electronics only use rosin core solder. Good luck.

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I remember seeing someone actually using "acid" core solder for some electronic project. I simply COULD NOT believe what I was seeing.

I should add; each time I make a solder connection I wipe the tip on the sponge and then re-tin it for the next joint.

I love my Metcal SP-200 system. It's no longer made but it's readily available on ebay. I first used one 10 years ago when I was doing repair work in the factory on pro audio gear. After using a few resistive soldering irons in my own work I decided to try and find one of these magic machines again and I'll never go back! It uses RF inductive heating so goes from off to ready to use in a few seconds, and dumps heat into the work very precisely and efficiently.

I do mostly electronics work with it, but it easily has the capability to solder brass parts together.

I bought something like this on ebay from china about 2 years ago, works great, and has allowed me to do several SMD projects that i wouldn't have tried any other way... but at the same time, using one of the larger tips, it can easily do simple brass work.

Great thread! It is fun to compare notes.

I have an analog wes51, and it has served me well.

I prefer this Hakko tip cleaner over a wet sponge. It may be superstition, but I think it takes longer for temps to recover with a wet sponge. It could totally be bs, but I bought into it.

darth_myeek said:

Great thread! It is fun to compare notes.

I have an analog wes51, and it has served me well.

I prefer this Hakko tip cleaner over a wet sponge. It may be superstition, but I think it takes longer for temps to recover with a wet sponge. It could totally be bs, but I bought into it.

View attachment 713528

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Hakko's station has the cleaner and the sponge. The curly cake removes debris, but the wet sponge is integral to removing oxidation. I doubt the room temp water on the sponge is changing the tip temp in any significant way, if it does it's gotta be so quick it has to recover before you even bring the iron back to your work.

The Hakko 888 is an excellent soldering station that won't break the bank, yet will serve well enough you'll be hard pressed to justify an upgrade down the road for reasons other than "I just want something more advanced".