Finished printing yesterday... Just need to switch out my filament to transparent for the bubbles!
Yeah, the 14 piece took about 24 hours at .15 resolution for me
Tan Djarka
Sr Member
I too have joined the 3-D nation... Sort of. I acquired three windvanes (thanks Muttley), one of which I've applied to my mostly machined Obi ANH.
Jack Knight1979
Well-Known Member
Thank you! I'm buying a 3d printer just to build this.
p0sitr0nic
Well-Known Member
Am i missing something or is the bubble strip not included in the complex version?
Valcrow
Active Member
It is included, youmagine's a bit buggy sometimes and doesn't show all your files in the thumbnail view.
If you click on documents (beside comments) you'll get all the files there proper. Bubblestrip is called lightbulbs
p0sitr0nic
Well-Known Member
Ahh yes, there it is, thanks. It was displaying as a grenade, i think.
Valcrow
Active Member
Hey Guys,
I've posted up a painting tutorial rundown for this thing. It's a condensed piece, only 3 minutes long.
Written instructions/tool list here if the video is too fast.
http://www.redicubricks.com/3d-printed-lightsaber-painting-tutorial/
Additional 3D printing related painting article that relates to this:
https://www.ultimaker.com/blogs/news/2014/08/06/painting-3d-models
Let me know what you thinks, if it's useful to you, too fast, or whatnot.
I've posted up a painting tutorial rundown for this thing. It's a condensed piece, only 3 minutes long.
Written instructions/tool list here if the video is too fast.
http://www.redicubricks.com/3d-printed-lightsaber-painting-tutorial/
Additional 3D printing related painting article that relates to this:
https://www.ultimaker.com/blogs/news/2014/08/06/painting-3d-models
Let me know what you thinks, if it's useful to you, too fast, or whatnot.
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Peacefrog35
Sr Member
That's very very cool. I know nothing about 3d printing, but is it possible to print the end cap of an authentic correct Armitage Shanks handwheel and have the writing on it?
Nice vid! :thumbsup
Painting tutorial was fantastic. I've got one of these printed by mutley and I'm looking forward to painting it when I get my shop set up in my new house.
I noticed in the video your windvane is on upside-down.
I noticed in the video your windvane is on upside-down.
Valcrow
Active Member
Thanks, funny that you caught that. ;P I made a few mistakes while doing the video including spraying the grenade silver when it should have been black
The windvane thing was super difficult to fit on, I didn't test the fitting before painting which was a big no-no.With the current orientation of the cap, you won't get much detail on the writing. If you want details that fine, you'd probably have to send it into a professional printer, or make the cap 2 parts just to optimize for the writing.
Irken Tech
Well-Known Member
That is a well done video. Great editing skills. And that is the first time I've seen the loading and cleaning of an air brush. Appreciated.
Frozenintime29
New Member
Really nice
Hi Valcrow, awesome work on this saber, thanks for putting in all the time and sharing with the rest of us. Love your Atlas Mech too if you're the same Valcrow that did that.
I've got almsot all my parts printed and painted for this saber, I'm having one hell of a time with the pin though, I'm tried so many different ways of printing it and can't get it to come even close to usable. Any advice on print settings for the pin?
I've got almsot all my parts printed and painted for this saber, I'm having one hell of a time with the pin though, I'm tried so many different ways of printing it and can't get it to come even close to usable. Any advice on print settings for the pin?
The pin and lever were to toughest parts for me as well. My printer just isn't quite dialed in enough yet to effectively print them. I uploaded those to files to Shapeways and had them printed for a couple bucks. I also had the bubble strip printed in Ultra Frosted Detail (clear)
Valcrow
Active Member
I looked at the pin part again to see if I could make it a bit more user friendly. It looks like the tolerance on the clampy part was too tight, my UM1 was under extruding just a tad so all of my 'good' tolerances ends up being too tight printed on my UM2 which I assume is more accurate.
I'll post up a fix tomorrow. You'll likely still have to file a little bit, but at least it won't be impossible and it should print better. It is unfortunately very close to the limit of these printers.
And yes, I made the Atlas and Jenner too
Valcrow
Active Member
Hey folks,
I have a fix up for the switch now. Give it a shot, it still requires a little bit of cleaning depending on how calibrated your printer is, but far less than the previous file. Plus it has extra supports so it has a higher chance of printing correctly. The pin is also about 2mm longer so it's a tad more forgiving. (but still holds the whole thing tight)
*edit* oops. it's backwards, make sure you install it correctly.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/light-saber-pin-and-switch-revision
Let me know if that works for you guys.
I have a fix up for the switch now. Give it a shot, it still requires a little bit of cleaning depending on how calibrated your printer is, but far less than the previous file. Plus it has extra supports so it has a higher chance of printing correctly. The pin is also about 2mm longer so it's a tad more forgiving. (but still holds the whole thing tight)
*edit* oops. it's backwards, make sure you install it correctly.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/light-saber-pin-and-switch-revision
Let me know if that works for you guys.
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