New Star Trek TOS Phaser coming November 2014

Ok, these things are solid. As my replacement P2 turned up I thought I'd have a poke around the faulty one. I started gently, easing a blade into the join without success in parting it. I tried overtightening the muzzle ring in an attempt to snap it off. I threaded the last ring but it still works perfectly. I then jammed a flathead into the body and eased it back and forth. It just clicked right back to where it's supposed to be. Any thoughts of being gentle and trying not to damage it soon passed. I cranked the screwdriver back and forth like a rampant maniac. It merely chipped the edges. I got a metal ruler in there and levered that as I frantically jammed the screwdriver left and right. Still it would not part. I tried to get the crystal out but it sat there firmly and smugly. I only managed to chip the side. The knob I got off, but it is connected by a plastic shaft which broke. The only option left is the hammer. Asides from some superficial damage to the plastic, it is in absolutely great shape despite much violence for a Wednesday night.

If any of you are successful in neatly taking one apart, I wish to shake you by the hand and send you my wife.
 
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Trebor said:
Just a head's up The Sharper Image is selling the Wand Phaser for $119.

Mine just arrived and included a $25 gift card. Guess I'm gonna order another

http://www.sharperimage.com/si/view...iversal+Remote+Control/203929?question=phaser
Click to expand...
I've been waiting for a good deal on this phaser. Bought from Sharper Image, returned 1st one because the 6pin connector wasnt maintaining connection; caused various glitches during gestures requiring power cycle to remedy. The exchanged one I got has the same problem. Emailed The Wand Company to see if there is a simple fix. Been a week, no reply. Guess I will send this one back too. Hopefully 3rd time a charm if they will exchange again. SI isnt adding ANY shipping padding, just a bare cardboard box around the product box.

Havent read through the entire thread to see if others have experienced this problem. I have a Garmin GPS V1 watch with the same type of connector which is problematic too and was abandoned in subsequent versions.

I could probably add some solder to add height to the connectors so they press together harder, but hesitant to since it probably couldn't be exchanged then if that doesnt fix it.

Other than this weak link in the design, really like this phaser and hope I can get it fixed or get one that works reliably.
 
Other people have had similar problems with the 6 pin connector and other than exchanging for a new one the people from The Wand Company said to make sure all of the pins and where they connect to are clean of any contamination.
 
Thanks guys for the suggestions.

Sharper Image is now sold out of these, so no exchange is possible, only refund.

I had tried cleaning the contacts with alcohol and a Q-tip, and ensured there's a definite "click" when connecting P1 to P2. Still that little bit of play left and right would result in a glitch.

Fortunately I found a simple solution. There's a rubber gasket at the front where you insert the the P1. I cut a small scrap piece of Stormtrooper brow trim leaving an L-shape and inserted it at the top in front of the existing gasket (the "L" against the top of glass). Then connecting the P1, it is more stabilized vertically and laterally. Very little rattle now and no glitches!
 
Finally caved in and bought one from ebay last week. The price was too good to pass up for $129.99 w/ free shipping.

It arrived today but came in a ThinkGeek box with the small airbags inside.
The Star trek box had a small dent on the top right but the case and phaser were in perfect condition.

Overall I'm very happy and impressed with this replica phaser / remote control. :)

So far no issues with the emitter or anything else, besides some minor light bleed on the bottom and top, just behind the rotating emitter ring.
 
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For those asking about the volume setting -
I found out how after watching a review video on youtube.

While in "FX" mode, press the mode selector button (the lighted, half clear dial) 6 times in a row, and then stop.

(The P1 must be connected to the P2 body in order for this to work)

The phaser will then say "Volume setting" and whatever number you dial on the P2 will be your volume setting. (Like setting 9, for example - the loudest)

Then press the P2 trigger to confirm.

And then it will say "Volume setting # done" - where # is whatever number you chose. :)
 
Gamera68 said:
Finally caved in and bought one from ebay last week. The price was too good to pass up for $129.99 w/ free shipping.

It arrived today but came in a ThinkGeek box with the small airbags inside.
The Star trek box had a small dent on the top right but the case and phaser were in perfect condition.

Overall I'm very happy and impressed with this replica phaser / remote control. :)

So far no issues with the emitter or anything else, besides some minor light bleed on the bottom and top, just behind the rotating emitter ring.
Click to expand...

I think the minor light bleed is typical. Mine has it too. It originates from the glow of the P2 LED leaking from the slight gap in the assembly of the left and right halves of the P2. This bright LED illuminates both the front emitter and the "dilithium crystal" (which is what really powers this thing, not a 20th century technology rechargeable lithium battery)

The dilithium crystal is a cool bonus feature of this phaser. In case you haven't found it, twist off the dilithium crystal chamber door to see it in action as the emitter light is activated.

Also useful to provide an alternative power source for a stranded Galileo shuttlecraft on a planet with furry hostile aliens.
 
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banthapoodoo said:
I think the minor light bleed is typical. Mine has it too. It originates from the glow of the P2 LED leaking from the slight gap in the assembly of the left and right halves of the P2. This bright LED illuminates both the front emitter and the "dilithium crystal" (which is what really powers this thing, not a 20th century technology rechargeable lithium battery)

The dilithium crystal is a cool bonus feature of this phaser. In case you haven't found it, twist off the dilithium crystal chamber door to see it in action as the emitter light is activated.

Also useful to provide an alternative power source for a stranded Galileo shuttlecraft on a planet with furry hostile aliens.
Click to expand...

Much thanks for the explanation and confirmation of the light bleed issue.
I found out about the dilithium crystal door - a very cool feature, nonetheless.

I recently purchased the bluetooth communicator as well from ThinkGeek and it should arrive later on this week.

It is the 50th anniversary of Star Trek so I thought it'd be appropriate to dress up as a starfleet officer for this Halloween. :)
 
I recently received both phaser and communicator as a birthday gift, and after a 50 year wait, and I am very happy with them. Thanks WC!
My Only problem with the phaser is the battery life of the P1.
I can charge it fully (blinking green) before bed, then place it into the P2, and have no power by the time I wake-up. not even a "cell depleted". no power.
and other times it will have enough power to turn-on.
the P1 does take a charge and function normally for the little time I am using it, but, dies pretty quick if I use the P2 lights and motor.
so, is my battery just bad?
 
Bilbo Baggins said:
I recently received both phaser and communicator as a birthday gift, and after a 50 year wait, and I am very happy with them. Thanks WC!
My Only problem with the phaser is the battery life of the P1.
I can charge it fully (blinking green) before bed, then place it into the P2, and have no power by the time I wake-up. not even a "cell depleted". no power.
and other times it will have enough power to turn-on.
the P1 does take a charge and function normally for the little time I am using it, but, dies pretty quick if I use the P2 lights and motor.
so, is my battery just bad?
Click to expand...

I would contact TWC, they are very good about replacing units that have problems.
 
Yeah, sounds like a bad battery. TWC never responded to a customer service email I sent them about my connector problem (which I was able to fix myself, but I didn't reply to TWC saying I did). Hopefully they do respond to Bilbo's request and make it right.
 
Glad you were able to fix your connection problem BP.
If mine is just the battery, I will be happy with a new cell, if I can figure how to replace it without damaging my P1.
 
I did get my new P1 in about a week from the time I sent a note explaining my issue.
At first, I had an issue with the contacts, but, once the new contacts were cleaned, it has worked perfectly.

Thanks, TWC !! \m/,
 
So I had seen these in stores countless times (Best Buy and the Think Geek store) and never even bothered to inspect it or had interest in getting one because it said "universal remote".
I figured their first priority was to make a functional remote device which usually means accuracy tends to suffer.

It wasnt until yesterday that i read up on this remote and discovered that its arguably the best mass producrd replica of a phaser (according to hard core Trek fans) to date, and even includes functuons which surpass the expensive MR replica, is made with metal and comes with a badass case.
I immediately ran to the Think Geek store today to pick one up and just as it always happens they had none in stock (they had them in stock every single other time I saw them).
Its as though the forces of the universe knew I was now interested in purchasing.

I ran across the street to Best Buy which had 2 in stock.
Couldnt be happier.

Communicator is next.
 
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