What we use in EU instead of "barge cement"

one of the best products to use on foam joining is Stikatak spray adhesive ... spray into the lid and brush it onto the surface ... you will find you have to use a lot of strength to tear it apart ... this product is available in the U.K from a large DIY shop with two letters in it's name ... for £6 one letter is a Q
... enjoy
 
Foam glueing is the bane of my cosplay existence. I've eyed off Sika at bunnings, is that any good compared to the Parfix version?
Not sure i've not tried it. This one starts brown and dries yellowish to clear, not that you see the colour if you've glued semi-neatly. I'll try Sika for you ... if it starts clear i'll be sold straight up I don't know why but start clear ends clear appels to me.
 
Not sure i've not tried it. This one starts brown and dries yellowish to clear, not that you see the colour if you've glued semi-neatly. I'll try Sika for you ... if it starts clear i'll be sold straight up I don't know why but start clear ends clear appels to me.

Would love to see the results of both brands when this next test is finished.
 
Definitely extremely late on this one, but for Spain, I would also like to add ContactCeys for shoes, comes in various sizes and presentations and works wonders.
 
I suspect the question's being read too narrowly. What makes a good contact cement/rubber solution/EVA foam glue (which as far as I can see are pretty much the same thing) really depends on the quality of the liquid latex which went into the solvent in the first place. Several things struck me from a knowledge of working in latex with that stuff, which sum up as "do a bit more than RTFM on the label".
Firstly, is it strong enough in the long term? Secondly, what about prepping the glue site?
Normally, when gluing sheet latex, we need to make certain the surfaces are prepped. That means a clean in very lightly soaped water, to remove organic muck, and then again in latex thinners, which opens the fibres and causes the latex to curl. When that's dried, it's flattened out again, and ready for a coat of latex solution, a much thinner version of the glues quoted, all of which I think I've used. Thin is good here, it makes a stronger join. Once again, that's allowed to dry, and we join up, paying great attention to stretch, so registration points match. Some people use tape to pre-register them, but that can force angles.
That's just the glueing, of thin sheet. There's a halfway house, in neoprene wetsuits. They do pretty much the same, but then reinforce the butt joint with overstitching and taping, because where glued latex bonds over around a 5mm 1/4" width sufficiently stringly as to meet most needs, the air pockets in 3mm thick material butt-jointed reduce the contact areas significantly. If you heat-treat the surface, I'd think you might improve that, but the real answer is that they add more reinforcement, by over-sewing the seam, and in more expensive suits, tape that, which means further glue to get close to the 5mm.
 
This thread is more than 5 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top