Trekkie313
Active Member
Awesome!
Two-Thirds Scale 33 inch TOS Enterprise
- Thread starter Shaw
- Start date
Shaw
Well-Known Member
Thanks Guys!
Small update... I've been doing some sanding to eliminate some flaws on the surface of the model and have been leaving it assembled for the last four or five days when not working on it. Here is how it looks assembled...
I'm pretty happy with the parts alignment so far, so I'm quite optimistic about how this one will turn out.
Small update... I've been doing some sanding to eliminate some flaws on the surface of the model and have been leaving it assembled for the last four or five days when not working on it. Here is how it looks assembled...
I'm pretty happy with the parts alignment so far, so I'm quite optimistic about how this one will turn out.
Shaw
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
I actually contacted JT Graphics about doing a couple primary hulls (one based on the 33 inch model and one based on the 11 foot model) scaled for the 18 inch kit... but he didn't think there was any demand for it, so I scrapped the idea. After all, if someone who already has a pre-existing business (and years of experience) couldn't make it work (even with someone else building the masters for him), there is no way that I'd be able to do it (with a complete lack of experience and not wanting to start a business from scratch around a few parts).
I actually contacted JT Graphics about doing a couple primary hulls (one based on the 33 inch model and one based on the 11 foot model) scaled for the 18 inch kit... but he didn't think there was any demand for it, so I scrapped the idea. After all, if someone who already has a pre-existing business (and years of experience) couldn't make it work (even with someone else building the masters for him), there is no way that I'd be able to do it (with a complete lack of experience and not wanting to start a business from scratch around a few parts).
Trekkie313
Active Member
I'd definitely buy one of these.
Shaw
Well-Known Member
Well. it's been a while since posting an update, so here is how things are progressing...
The major changes that have been made since I last posted an update are that the primary hull, dorsal and secondary hull are glued together now, and I've started attaching the primary hull elements to the primary hull. I've also finished attaching the front of the secondary hull, and I need to do some additional filling/sanding to a few small spots before I take another pass with the primer.
I've also gotten all the decals I'll be using for this model... hull markings are from Thomas Sasser, the windows are from JT Graphics. And I'm still playing with ideas for the nacelle domes.
So that is about where everything stands at this point.
The major changes that have been made since I last posted an update are that the primary hull, dorsal and secondary hull are glued together now, and I've started attaching the primary hull elements to the primary hull. I've also finished attaching the front of the secondary hull, and I need to do some additional filling/sanding to a few small spots before I take another pass with the primer.
I've also gotten all the decals I'll be using for this model... hull markings are from Thomas Sasser, the windows are from JT Graphics. And I'm still playing with ideas for the nacelle domes.
So that is about where everything stands at this point.
GoldCylon1
Well-Known Member
Outstanding.
saarno
Active Member
I just joined this forum this week. And I have to say that is one great looking model! I recently found one of my old AMT 18 inch TOS E models (I build 3 way back in the '70's as a kid and kept them all). The one I found was a real beater, but had all but two of it's pieces. I have stripped this one down and am re-buiding to get myself back into modeling - it's been many years. Am doing a much more detailed job now than I did back then!
I've always wanted a super accurate model of the TOS E and will pick up the 33 incher once I get my model 'legs' back.
How long did it take to make the saucer from scratch? It came out great!
I've always wanted a super accurate model of the TOS E and will pick up the 33 incher once I get my model 'legs' back.
How long did it take to make the saucer from scratch? It came out great!
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Shaw
Well-Known Member
First... Welcome! :thumbsup
On the first attempt I spent almost a year playing with ideas... which was a huge mistake. I assumed that I'd be able to easily sand away errors while I was considering how to finish the build. But unfortunately the paper mache pulp I used gets harder over time, and got to the point where sanding was quite difficult.
On the second attempt I started at the beginning of last December and finished the overall shape before February. This time around I addressed as many issues as early as I could, plus I used tools (plastic shapes cut from a 2 liter Coke bottle) to get the surface as smooth and regular as possible while applying the paper mache pulp.
I literally spent a fraction of the time on the second attempt's primary hull and the result was significantly better.
I think people don't realize just how strong the primary hull is when I tell them it is made from foamcore board and paper mache pulp, but with the part set between two edges, I can set more than 15 pounds of weights in the center with almost no bending/warping of the part. When this stuff cures all the way, it is like concrete.
I know how you feel coming back to model building after a long absence. It had been almost 15 years between my last model and my first attempt, which is why I was going so slowly on it while I tried to figure things out.
On the first attempt I spent almost a year playing with ideas... which was a huge mistake. I assumed that I'd be able to easily sand away errors while I was considering how to finish the build. But unfortunately the paper mache pulp I used gets harder over time, and got to the point where sanding was quite difficult.
On the second attempt I started at the beginning of last December and finished the overall shape before February. This time around I addressed as many issues as early as I could, plus I used tools (plastic shapes cut from a 2 liter Coke bottle) to get the surface as smooth and regular as possible while applying the paper mache pulp.
I literally spent a fraction of the time on the second attempt's primary hull and the result was significantly better.
I think people don't realize just how strong the primary hull is when I tell them it is made from foamcore board and paper mache pulp, but with the part set between two edges, I can set more than 15 pounds of weights in the center with almost no bending/warping of the part. When this stuff cures all the way, it is like concrete.
I know how you feel coming back to model building after a long absence. It had been almost 15 years between my last model and my first attempt, which is why I was going so slowly on it while I tried to figure things out.
saarno
Active Member
I have found that I am already working out new and effective methods of construction, and have been setting up jigs to line up tricky parts and hold them in place for gluing. Warp pylons and the primary hull / saucer were always a hastle. With my old beater already re-assembled, I'm rather pleased as to how it looks.
For painting, I have been using images of your model, as well as several other images and want to get the color accuracy as close as possible. I'm using a combination of light grey spray and Krylon Fusion white and am misting in fine layers to get just the right combo. I will snap some shots of the progress and post.
I forgot how relaxing modeling was for me. It's a great diversion from my computer work and gets me away from my screen.
For painting, I have been using images of your model, as well as several other images and want to get the color accuracy as close as possible. I'm using a combination of light grey spray and Krylon Fusion white and am misting in fine layers to get just the right combo. I will snap some shots of the progress and post.
I forgot how relaxing modeling was for me. It's a great diversion from my computer work and gets me away from my screen.
Shaw
Well-Known Member
Cool! I look forward to seeing your progress. :thumbsup
I know that there are a lot of opinions on the color for the Enterprise (and a number of good articles, like this one), but generally I've always felt that people should go with the color that feels best in person to them.
It is amazing how different the gray of my model looks depending on the light source when I'm taking the images (and I tend to hate using the flash). Some times it seems lighter, others darker, some times it comes across somewhat yellow, other times slightly green, and even slightly blue. I took these images of my first model a couple days ago and it looks quite different than when I use the white background.
The color in that image looks a lot like the color of the nacelle behind Jefferies in the top image of this page.
So in my opinion, if you hit on a color that feels right... then it is right.
I know what you mean!
A few years ago when I wanted to try modeling again, I spent about three months teaching myself 3D modeling thinking that it might be a good substitute for building real models. While I sorta liked the results, it wasn't the same.
This is about as far as I got when I quit...
Click to play (3.6 MB, MPEG4)
Keep in mind that all that was done using antiques (mid 1990s hardware and software) just to see what could have been done 15 years ago if someone had tried.
But yeah, it wasn't the same as working with (or having) a physical model. It felt so disconnected... and I could only look at it when I had either images or movies of it displaying on my screen.
... And sometimes I really don't want to look at any of my screens. :confused
saarno
Active Member
First, I'm more than a little impressed with the computer setup you have. I also have a data-center like setup in my home office, too - mostly made up of PC's and hardware I got from my old company when we closed down the building. Late 90's and early '00's equip. and all runs well. Like you, I do get tired of looking at screens.
Excellent job on the 3-D movie! I always wanted to try out that process and probably should scram up some older s/ware this fall. Good winter projects. What s-ware did you use for the modeling?
I've been using the physical models I'm finding hidden away and experimenting on them with photography. Using green screens, I key out the backgrounds in photoshop and put them in appropriate space-ish settings (orbit, nebulae, etc). Look nice and have created some cool wallpaper (and background image for my blackberries). Brings them to life...
You're right on the color. Find something you like, and run with it. Funny thing, I looked at one of my 'better' 18 inch TOS E 18" a few weeks back and could not imaging where I got the wierd color scheme (blue end caps on the nacelles, and black trim on the bussard colectors). Then I found an image on the net of the original box it came in back in the 70's from AMT. And there were the same colors I used! I followed the box perfectly and got it dead-on. Not bad for a 10 year-old back them. Looked good then, cheesy now, so those will get popped off and re-done. Paint held up well, but I can now tell that I really botched the decals on the forward saucer. Will snap up some new versions of the 18 inch decals and re-do that. I've become a stickler for accuracy. :lol
Are these shots you sent of your 33", or an 18"?
Excellent job on the 3-D movie! I always wanted to try out that process and probably should scram up some older s/ware this fall. Good winter projects. What s-ware did you use for the modeling?
I've been using the physical models I'm finding hidden away and experimenting on them with photography. Using green screens, I key out the backgrounds in photoshop and put them in appropriate space-ish settings (orbit, nebulae, etc). Look nice and have created some cool wallpaper (and background image for my blackberries). Brings them to life...
You're right on the color. Find something you like, and run with it. Funny thing, I looked at one of my 'better' 18 inch TOS E 18" a few weeks back and could not imaging where I got the wierd color scheme (blue end caps on the nacelles, and black trim on the bussard colectors). Then I found an image on the net of the original box it came in back in the 70's from AMT. And there were the same colors I used! I followed the box perfectly and got it dead-on. Not bad for a 10 year-old back them. Looked good then, cheesy now, so those will get popped off and re-done. Paint held up well, but I can now tell that I really botched the decals on the forward saucer. Will snap up some new versions of the 18 inch decals and re-do that. I've become a stickler for accuracy. :lol
Are these shots you sent of your 33", or an 18"?
Mike J.
Master Member
saarno
Active Member
Some initial shots of my re-working. This was my true first model - around 6 or 7. You can tell by the great job I did on primary hull decal placement...
I'm taking more detailed images of the better model and am sequencing them. Agin, mine are all the 18" model, but I'm going for as accurate as possibe, with customizations as needed.
I have also created a new thread and I will post my pics and other info there...
I'm taking more detailed images of the better model and am sequencing them. Agin, mine are all the 18" model, but I'm going for as accurate as possibe, with customizations as needed.
I have also created a new thread and I will post my pics and other info there...
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Shaw
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I love old computers... specially the ones I wanted (but couldn't afford) when they were new. Some of my favorites are my Silicon Graphics workstations.
Thanks!
I started out using Strata Vision 3D (because it was free) from 1994, but moved to Strata Studio Pro (also from 1994) when I found it on ebay (mainly because it included a number of manuals). I've been considering starting over in Blender on my Silicon Graphics Indigo 2 IMPACT (once I've finish setting that system up). Strata does still make software, but the prices of their current versions are outside of what I'd be willing to spend on a hobby.
I love playing with photoshop. It is a great way to keep my skills up... though I haven't done much with my own models. I have done a few with the original model of the Enterprise, like this one...
... but I've done more with people in Trek...
There have been a few images that I photoshopped that have taken on a life of their own though. :confused
I did try doing some blue screen tests (using my CG model though) using Strata VideoShop (again, from 1994)...
Click to play (4.4 MB, Quicktime)
And these are the elements...
That was my first modified 22 inch model... I haven't built an 18 inch model since 1994 (though I might later this summer).
Actually, that is a cool model to start with considering that it had actually been seen in TOS. The later reworking of the 18 inch kit has lost some of the historical value of those early versions.
Awesome! I hadn't noticed that they had put those up. Thanks for pointing it out. :thumbsup
Shaw
Well-Known Member
Not a massive update, but a little progress. The last of the items that needed gluing onto the model before painting starts have been glued on. The model most likely doesn't seem any different because those parts were usually sitting in place when photographed.
After a few more touch ups and a little sanding, it should be ready for it's base coat of paint (hopefully next weekend), followed by the painting of some of the details. Those will be allowed to set for a while before I mask them and start in on the final painting.
This is also a test of the mounting point built into this model (on a makeshift stand).
This is also the last (decent) images for a while as I'll be returning the camera to my friend this week.
After a few more touch ups and a little sanding, it should be ready for it's base coat of paint (hopefully next weekend), followed by the painting of some of the details. Those will be allowed to set for a while before I mask them and start in on the final painting.
This is also a test of the mounting point built into this model (on a makeshift stand).
This is also the last (decent) images for a while as I'll be returning the camera to my friend this week.
JMChladek
Sr Member
I love that bridge shot with the JJ Abrams crew on the classic bridge. It seems to work perfectly (no lens flare generators either).
The model work is looking very good also. If anything, I seem to like the look of the 3 footer saucer contours better then that of the 11 footer. I am not sure why, but I think it is due to the slightly bulkier contours of the saucer below. To me, it is that saucer contour that really sells that it is the three footer.
As for gray shades, now you know why military jets are painted in flat gray shades. They indeed have some very distinctive color changing properties and absorb what is around them somewhat. That is why they are painted these colors, so they can get closer to a target before being spotted visually. The studio models for TOS always looked a little darker under normal lighting then they did in the effects shots and of course the reason for that is they were under bright studio lights on the sound stage. As such, the colorings always have enough fudge factor to be "good enough" with what looks good to the eye of the builder.
The model work is looking very good also. If anything, I seem to like the look of the 3 footer saucer contours better then that of the 11 footer. I am not sure why, but I think it is due to the slightly bulkier contours of the saucer below. To me, it is that saucer contour that really sells that it is the three footer.
As for gray shades, now you know why military jets are painted in flat gray shades. They indeed have some very distinctive color changing properties and absorb what is around them somewhat. That is why they are painted these colors, so they can get closer to a target before being spotted visually. The studio models for TOS always looked a little darker under normal lighting then they did in the effects shots and of course the reason for that is they were under bright studio lights on the sound stage. As such, the colorings always have enough fudge factor to be "good enough" with what looks good to the eye of the builder.
