TRON Legacy - Identity Disc: Custom with Lights and Sounds

[zookone]

Working on the paint and patching all the surface defects etc. White paint is looking pretty good, using duplicolor white sandable primer. I'll probably retain this for the main body. I'm going to test some other lacquer I have the texture panels.



Also started designing the backplate disc holder in Rhino. Planning something similar to Sams as opposed to Rinzlers. More magnets will retain the disc to the holder.



The project plods along...

 

[santiclause]

chug along man, I've been following this one for a while now.

 

[renderinfo]

Any Xmas updates, zookone? I would consider it a present LOL. Otherwise, happy holidays and enjoy your new year!

 

[zookone]

Happy Holidays. I had the week off The time allowed me to get some things done around the house and finish the white disc! There a couple of items to refine and I've got some power management issues that make the disc behave a glitchy with lights and sounds. But I am able to get it running and you can see in the videos below...

Will post so photos tomorrow. To dark in the office at the moment.

I think the power issues are a result of 3.3v breakouts mixing with the 5v components. I dont have room for a regulator so not sure how to fix it. research is needed.

Christmas Colors:

 

[Igniitus]

So awesome

 

[zookone]

Some interior and exterior Photos. Has a translucent button cover at the moment. Ran out of white resin. Also using the laser cut blade, the 3D printed and hand finished scalloped version I made hasn't been cast, need a pressure pot likely to be able to mold the clear resin successfully and I don't have one. I really need one for the c-rings to come out better also. Tiny bubbles in them. Design of the master worked pretty well except I had to crave a bit out to fit the buttons in.

The blue paint in the interior is a light block. The white disc bleeds light through the surface. White disc overall is very unforgiving. Black Discs I feel should prove better to work with.

• The disc is cast in white Smooth-On 305
• C Ring is Smooth-On 326 clear resin with a pin ***** or white pigment to turn the cast milky translucent.
• 3mm counter sunk Alum washers from ebay, 3mm white LEDs inserted into the washer. LEDs not wired in the current build

• (4) 4mm x 2mm Disc Magnets are installed on the back of the disc for the holder
  
• (16) 4mm x 2mm Disc Magnets hold the 2 haves of the disc together
  
• Laser Cut Blade in Opal Acrylic

I re-wired nearly everything with 26awg solid copper wire. Smaller wire helped a ton with wire management and fitting everything. I don't think I could manage trying to using the finer gauge wire.

Any color combo you want for the C Ring and Blade is possible by chaning the color designations in the Arduino Code. I will be updating the Arduino code to ease color changes and re-post in this thread. Still showning the XMas scheme in these photos.

 

[Soulinertia]

Incredible work. Looks absolutely stunning! :thumbsup

What is the outer diameter of the disc with the blade installed?

 

[zookone]

Incredible work. Looks absolutely stunning! :thumbsup

What is the outer diameter of the disc with the blade installed?

Thanks really appreciate the complement. 10" dia. with the blade on.

 

[Crimson490]

Fantastic! Success!
Next logical step...how to make it derez things...

 

[Genesis]

Great work! I'm working on my version of the ID disc for my costume but the mine is based on the deluxe edition toy (no access to 3D print xD ).
The space available inside is really limited but I think it will be sufficient for electronic and battery.

I hope to have some battery life but to give you an idea turning on the 12 leds "C ring" at full power (white) uses 325mA @ 5V! measured on my Agilent digital power supply.
The led controller (WS2812) quiescent current is 11mA for 12 units.
hopefully 15% power is sufficient to get a good visual effect but power switch must be used to control the led power supply line to limit the quiescent current and the battery drain. the 70 leds turned off drawn near 60mA of power for nothing!
But the important thing is the total power consumption when all things are turned on : a switching regulator must be used to hold such current amount.

The leds are installed inside and I'm working on the test code to control the light + sound but it's not the same sound module as yours. the mine directly play WAV/MP3 files and include 3W audio amplifier so I must make code to control it because there's no library available (buts it's easy with asynchronous serial commands).

I've added the "charge sound" at startup like in the movie and the spinning sound is an audio loop without gap. but I must work again on the sound like on the sound change when the disc is moved. (thanks to a RPF member for the sound files used as basis for my disc)

the 3-axis accelerometer is ready and the disc will automatically start when i will take it from by back (no push button action needed) and stop when installed back on the costume with the "C ring illumination" + sound. My costume will detect the disc too to synchronize the EL tape illumination. (if I get what I want xD )


Zookone make a schematic (even hand drawn) perhaps I can help you with your 3.3v problem if you want / I can.
I have used level shifter bewteen my 5v controller and my 3.3v 3-axis accelerometer.

An idea of my test board schematic but the battery charger is included on it and with test buttons/leds
the final one will be lighter






test video (not the final vidual/sound effects ):
[video=dailymotion;kGLlwnmSKEN7QY9JZ15]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/kGLlwnmSKEN7QY9JZ15[/video]

 

[tubachris85x]

Please tell me you'll be offering these up! I have been wanting to get a decent one that wasn't the size of the toy/female disk..

 

[zookone]

Genesis, Your disc is looking great so far! I have minimal implementation of the accelerometer in my disc. I need to learn more scripting to use it to its full potential. I'd love to continue the dialog in this thread on improving our platforms and disc effects.

There is a schematic of my assembly on Page 2 of thread. Currently I have everything on 5v though. Nothing on 3.3v which I think might be the problem. The sound chip MOD-1007 is supposed to take 3.3v but if I try to use the 3.3v out the arduino it doesn't respond to signals consistently.

I am thinking of adding one these regulators (http://www.adafruit.com/products/2165) between the 5.5v source and the MOD-1007. Think this will work?

Also Adafruit just released this haptic motor controller (http://www.adafruit.com/products/2305) It could provide more interesting effects then just the level changes my current configuration provides. Planning to buy one to play test out.

 

[Genesis]

Fritzing didn't have symbols for all my break-out boards so I had to improvise a little bit.

View attachment 295090

this is the schematic (more a wiring guide ) you are talking about?
what are the symptoms exactly?
it seems you have connected the audio module to the 3.3v out of the arduino micro. the linear regulator inside the arduino is a low power one (near 100mA) this can cause audio quality problems at high volume.
the other thing is the 3.3v input level as you have quoted before. you must add a 1K resistor in serie to the TX line from the arduino module to limit the current from the 5v side to the 3.3v side. the other way can be left unchanged (3.3v to 5v)

about your 3.3v 800mA regulator it depends of the symptoms you get. but what is your power source? because on the wiring it's 4 AA batteries so the final voltage will be 6v with a fresh set.

for the haptic motor driver you can try but you can also use a PWM channel of your arduino with a N channel mosfet to simply drive a vibrating motor too.
I'm using such motor in some industrial products I have designed and the mechanical effect is limited with the side of the case. And you must think to disable the accelerometer when using the motor

 

[renderinfo]

Zookone, awesome work! Happy New Year!

I think your sound effects and light effects are absolutely awesome. However, personally, I'm not a big fan of the red/green color combination on the white disc. It just doesn't "feel" tron to me, but that's highly subjective. If you want more color than boring white lights on a white disc, maybe add some blue in there, with as "dark" as tint as possible (dark blue light?) or even "tron light blue". I just don't see the red and green color lights you chose that much in the Tron movies, but perhaps that's what you are going for...

But I gotta say, that light animation of making the disc spin is pure awesomeness.

 

[BeBe79]

Hey. I'm still looking forward to find the 3D files for download.
Since I cant find a affordable Deluxe edition Disk for modding, 3D printing would be an option.

The electronics are no problem, but the actual Disk is ...

 

[megaim]

Hey. I'm still looking forward to find the 3D files for download.
Since I cant find a affordable Deluxe edition Disk for modding, 3D printing would be an option.

The electronics are no problem, but the actual Disk is ...

?
I am looking for the 3D files, I know this is a old post but any help will be help full. Plus looking for the final breakout board layout. Where I can find the Sound files?

- - - Updated - - -

this is the schematic (more a wiring guide ) you are talking about?
what are the symptoms exactly?
it seems you have connected the audio module to the 3.3v out of the arduino micro. the linear regulator inside the arduino is a low power one (near 100mA) this can cause audio quality problems at high volume.
the other thing is the 3.3v input level as you have quoted before. you must add a 1K resistor in serie to the TX line from the arduino module to limit the current from the 5v side to the 3.3v side. the other way can be left unchanged (3.3v to 5v)

about your 3.3v 800mA regulator it depends of the symptoms you get. but what is your power source? because on the wiring it's 4 AA batteries so the final voltage will be 6v with a fresh set.

for the haptic motor driver you can try but you can also use a PWM channel of your arduino with a N channel mosfet to simply drive a vibrating motor too.
I'm using such motor in some industrial products I have designed and the mechanical effect is limited with the side of the case. And you must think to disable the accelerometer when using the motor

I know is a old project but looking for the final breakout board diagram to build it!