TR-595E Custom Tricorder

[JaredTS486]

JaredTS486 any progress resolving your white noise popping issues? I haven't had a chance to try the tinyS3 in my older setup.

Yea I never figured out how to reduce the white noise. I tried variations of sample rates in both my code and wav file.

Using the "viola" example wav from a progmem did not have the same issue so I was wondering if maybe it was due to my method of converting the file.

When I try to use littlefs with my board I get severe errors that cause the board to get stuck in a boot loop. Pretty sure I am doing it right; I was able to play files via littlefs in the same way using the Pico. I might revisit this later.

Overall, after closing everything up, even with the volume maxed, I could barely hear the actual tricorder audio let alone the white noise. If there is some science to getting the sound to resonate with the tricorder to make it louder without drilling / adding holes for the speaker I could not find it.

I was also never able to get the low power mode on my board to work properly and there is still a 1-2 second delay where the screen is white before changing and the sound starts to play. I might try a different board at some point.

I ended up running out of time and used what I had. I'll add pictures at some point.

 

[Arky]

Yea I never figured out how to reduce the white noise. I tried variations of sample rates in both my code and wav file.

Using the "viola" example wav from a progmem did not have the same issue so I was wondering if maybe it was due to my method of converting the file.

When I try to use littlefs with my board I get severe errors that cause the board to get stuck in a boot loop. Pretty sure I am doing it right; I was able to play files via littlefs in the same way using the Pico. I might revisit this later.

Overall, after closing everything up, even with the volume maxed, I could barely hear the actual tricorder audio let alone the white noise. If there is some science to getting the sound to resonate with the tricorder to make it louder without drilling / adding holes for the speaker I could not find it.

I was also never able to get the low power mode on my board to work properly and there is still a 1-2 second delay where the screen is white before changing and the sound starts to play. I might try a different board at some point.

I ended up running out of time and used what I had. I'll add pictures at some point.

I'd definitely like to see pics of your build

 

[wystewart]

Yea I never figured out how to reduce the white noise. I tried variations of sample rates in both my code and wav file.

Using the "viola" example wav from a progmem did not have the same issue so I was wondering if maybe it was due to my method of converting the file.

When I try to use littlefs with my board I get severe errors that cause the board to get stuck in a boot loop. Pretty sure I am doing it right; I was able to play files via littlefs in the same way using the Pico. I might revisit this later.

Sorry that i haven't had time to try the tinys3 with my older setup. Because you are having problem with littlefs, i don't think me trying the tinys3 will help. Let me know when you start working on it again, maybe I can send my version of the code and try to help you out. In principle it should be able work as mine even with littlefs working.

Overall, after closing everything up, even with the volume maxed, I could barely hear the actual tricorder audio let alone the white noise. If there is some science to getting the sound to resonate with the tricorder to make it louder without drilling / adding holes for the speaker I could not find it.

I'm afraid of that in my build too. I've ordered some laptop/tablet like speakers from aliexpress with slots in the side where the sound comes out. Will try these, ideally I'd just have some some holes in the side, similar to a phone for the sound to come out.

I was also never able to get the low power mode on my board to work properly and there is still a 1-2 second delay where the screen is white before changing and the sound starts to play. I might try a different board at some point.

I have a similar problem with my new build with STM32. I'm going to try putting it to sleep and wake up to play the sound. Problem is that the STM32 draws a lot more power in sleep than the ESP32S3, so I'll have to power off completely when not in use.

And yes I would also be interested to photos of your build..

Close to having something to show in this forum... Still much to do... Lots of software yet to code, another board design to do, painting and a re-spin of the 3D enclosure prints. Phaser project on the go to, just got the boards in, hopefully show that soon too.

 

[VincePopcorn]

I've been following this project with keen interest, and have recently decided to give it a shot. It will be my biggest diy prop build undertaking so far. I'm excited, and happy to learn as I go. Thank you all for sharing your experience, and source files!

So far, I've printed, filled, primed and painted the body. Print and cut the decals. As well as soldered up a rp-pico with the LCD display screen. It has been a long time since I've been in arduino ide, but it looks absolutely fantastic on the LCD! Great work on the design and animation.

I figured getting the LCD to work was my priority, because if I couldn't then the project would be dead. But I'm so far happy with what I've achieved, and keen to progress.

I'm looking to send out to jlcpcb for the boards, but I have a few questions before I do, as this will be the first time I've ever done so.

Firstly, what is the deal with buying the components to solder onto the board? Does one simply order them from jlcpcb too? Or is there a better route?

Secondly, do I need a solder mask? Or do you think these boards are simple enough to use the little syringe on the solder paste?

Thirdly, are the pcb designs currently in the git hub repo working fine? I don't quite have the knowledge or experience to check them before sending out for them, so will just upload them as is.

Again, thanks fir your advice and help. I am somewhat new to ordering in pcb, but I am really very keen to learn as I go.

Thanks again. I'll post pics when I can.

 

[Arky]

Firstly, what is the deal with buying the components to solder onto the board? Does one simply order them from jlcpcb too? Or is there a better route?

I got most of the stuff I needed from Mouser. There's a parts list in the repo with links, but if there's anything you can't find let me know and I'll check it out.

Secondly, do I need a solder mask? Or do you think these boards are simple enough to use the little syringe on the solder paste?

I didn't need one, (nvm, yes you do want the solder mask) and didn't really need paste either, though YMMV. I just tinned the pads first and then soldered the component on. Do yourself a favor though and get yourself one of those magnifier lamps if you don't have one already- those parts are TINY.

Thirdly, are the pcb designs currently in the git hub repo working fine? I don't quite have the knowledge or experience to check them before sending out for them, so will just upload them as is.

The three files in the PCB folder are the same ones that I sent out for manufacturing- they work fine. There's another folder with Mr. Engineer's version of the top panel that I haven't personally tried yet, but he had some great results with it.

 

[wystewart]

I'm looking to send out to jlcpcb for the boards, but I have a few questions before I do, as this will be the first time I've ever done so.

Firstly, what is the deal with buying the components to solder onto the board? Does one simply order them from jlcpcb too? Or is there a better route?

Secondly, do I need a solder mask? Or do you think these boards are simple enough to use the little syringe on the solder paste?

Pretty sure you'll need the soldermark if you do assembly with JLC. I've had several boards assembled by JLC, works pretty well for the most part. Assembly is cheap, but if you use a lot of extended parts, the costs can add up pretty quick. For JLC assembly you need to find the equivalent parts in their inventory (has to be in stock), then either adjust the BOM before you upload, or use their online process to match each BOM item to a part in their inventory. you can't supply JLC parts, they won't do that unless you have large volume.

If you have JLC assemble the boards, you need the gerbers, pick&place file and the BOM. I don't recall if the pick&place is included in Arky's files.

I use EASYEDA for PCB cad, its not the most powerful, but it is pretty easy to use and when you select parts from library it will tell you right away if it is in stock at JLC, price and how many in stock. All the files exported from easyeda (BOM, pick&place, gerber) are in the right format for their system.

If you use JLC for assembly, they can do double sided assembly, but it costs quite a bit more. Best to stick to all parts on one side in the design, or alternatively as I do, majority of the parts on one side that JLC assembles, then the few remaining parts on opposite side. I select bigger packages 0603, 0805 and larger and do the assembly myself.

 

[Arky]

Pretty sure you'll need the soldermark if you do assembly with JLC.

You're right- you do want the solder mask. Not sure what I was thinking of in my last post.

 

[chuckthetekkie]

For the PCBs, is the default thickness of 1.6mm fine or does it need to be thinner?

 

[Mr.Engineer]

Here is what I have done so far.

1. I have modified Arky's PCB files and made my own circuits. There were more revisions after I have uploaded to GitHub, with some extra features. Right now, I have kinda put this on the KIV for the moment while another Project needs my attention. Kinda lost steam during the Lower Interface re-design and also the daunting task to trying the RaspberryPi Pico animation screen which I failed.:

- Top Panel
The four LEDs now have a moving sequence (ie scrolls from left to right). Also, the PCB were designed to allow the board to sit flush within the Tricorder shell (ie the components were soldered on the reverse side). I think there is a version where you can set your own speed but I

- Front Array
Again, using my own circuits. I have redesigned the circuit a little to allow for own 555/4017 speed or, synchronise to the Front Array, all this can be done by the user.

-Lower Interface
Again, this has been redesigned with more LED colours but I have yet to test them out.


All three boards were re-designed using the pre-Autodesk EaglePCB v7.77 (as I love this software a lot.) where I extracted the gerber files just for the board's dimension and the positions of the LEDs. When I design my own boards, I usually get the components online and hand-solder them. I have not used the solder-mask as these are only required when you go down the reflow soldering path. This means, if you want to do this yourself, you'd need JLCPCB to create a solder mask so you can apply the solder past accurately. I already have one but yet to try the reflow sodlering process.

A 'standard' thickness of a typical PCB is 1.6mm but for this Tricorder, I got JLCPCB to go down as far as 0.8mm. The thinner the boards, the more space you have inside the Tricorder Shell. There are other modifications I have made to the Project such as Wireless charging. Sorry, I'm a little busy nowadays with my Day Job so you'd need to read up my blog posts at my incomplete Website link below. Just search for the keyword, "TR-595E"

Lastly, I have also re-designed the decals as I discovered the decals for front fascia 3D shell I got printed from JLCPCB did not fit. But I have yet to test the rest of them. 2 images, one with the Front array and Top Panel, and the Wireless charging. OK, gotta rush, taking my kid to tuition...

Version 2 (background) and version 3 (left) boards

Tricorder on Wireless charger

Re-designed decals. I wanted the Lower Interface to have a sort of GEO, MET & BIO so that it is still related to the MkIX or MkX.

 

[Arky]

For the PCBs, is the default thickness of 1.6mm fine or does it need to be thinner?

Default should be fine.

 

[publiusr]

I’m surprised the tiny tv set guys never thought to make one…or a Comlock from 1999.

 

[Mr.Engineer]

A company in Australia called 4D Systems has created an OLED screen where you can play animation files from a microSD card. I got it a few years ago but somehow, misplaced whole parcel while I was creating a protoype board for testing. Anyway, it has a software suite while allows you program the screen.

 

[VincePopcorn]

This is how far I've got (video attached)! I've really enjoyed building this so far. Not worked from Mr. Engineers pcb, just from the original in the github.

Can anyone diagnose this issue?? Looks like one set of leds isn't firing in the sequence. It was when I soldered it all up, but seems to have stopped. I wonder if it's simply a dry solder joint on one of the capacitors.

Anyone who is familiar with the circuit design able to diagnose what's the likely culprit??

Thanks so much!!

On another note, the screen I got from adafruit fell apart when I was handling it! All the diffusion layers delaminated. Really annoying. Definitely seems pretty poorly made. I've contacted PiHut for a replacement, but so far they've been reluctant to help. Annoying. It was all working so well until then though. That will be the last piece to slot in!

 

[Mr.Engineer]

You mean the Green LEDs on the right (LOwer Interface) are not sequencing?
If you connect/ disconnect the battery fast enough, you might see the next (green) LED light up, (assuming the four green LEDs are soldered in the right orientation). If this happens, the bigger 4017 IC is working fine. The you would need to look at one of the capacitors near the 555 IC.

Also, how were the PCBs made?

 

[VincePopcorn]

Thanks for your reply. No, the lower inferface functions perfectly (first image in my post is just a still photo).

Actually, the problem I've identified seems to be sequence related, in the top panel... And it's getting worse! Fingers crossed something isn't blowing out (Although, I don't see why it would be )... The attached video shows it off, I've marked the leds that are no longer running. It's definitely getting worse.

Also (sorry to stack up the problems!) when I first switch it all on, everything runs VERY fast, steadily stabalising after a minute or so. I wonder if this is a battery voltage issue. Thoughts? Too low a voltage, or too high a voltage? Not sure what effect the voltage might have on the speed of the 555s, if any at all.

Thanks so much!!

I did all the soldering myself with an iron and solder wire. I did my best, but this is my first surface mount electronics project, so will probably need to go back over it, and learn from my mistakes! I suppose it's possible some of the leds are in backwards, but I'm sure they all functioned fine before I glued the boards into the case!

 

[Mr.Engineer]

OK, I am not sure if I am right but it seems like the input Pins #14 for both 4017 ICs in the Lower Interface and the Front Array might not be connected to Pins #03 of their respective 555 Timer IC. The telling speed kinda shows as if the pins are floating and hence the self oscillation. So, you might want to check with the soldering. However, the orange LEDs are the bottom are flashing, which might mean I am wrong, unless there is something shorting the second 4017 IC (which is static sentsitive since it is a CMOS). If the 555's pin#03 to 4017's pin#14 are soldered properly, maybe you might want to look at the SMD capacitors which, have no marking whatsoever. But both boards do not run at the same speed.

If I remember correctly, most of the LEDs's
orientation are that their NEGATIVE solder pads are facing towards the left (if you look at the PCB from the front, just like the image below). This is how Arky's board looks like as I extracted his files for the position of the LEDs and the PCB dimensions. I then used that information to re-create/ re-design my own circuits, with some additional features for customisation.

In theory, your board should be sequencing like the video below. Except for the Upper Panel which I redesigned to have a 4-LED sequence ala MkIX.

 

[publiusr]

A company in Australia called 4D Systems has created an OLED screen where you can play animation files from a microSD card.

Now to convince them to do hemispheres…for small planets with two…or….each hemisphere as a nacelle cap.

Hey Round2!

 

[Arky]

This is how far I've got (video attached)! I've really enjoyed building this so far. Not worked from Mr. Engineers pcb, just from the original in the github.

Can anyone diagnose this issue?? Looks like one set of leds isn't firing in the sequence. It was when I soldered it all up, but seems to have stopped. I wonder if it's simply a dry solder joint on one of the capacitors.

Anyone who is familiar with the circuit design able to diagnose what's the likely culprit??

Thanks so much!!

On another note, the screen I got from adafruit fell apart when I was handling it! All the diffusion layers delaminated. Really annoying. Definitely seems pretty poorly made. I've contacted PiHut for a replacement, but so far they've been reluctant to help. Annoying. It was all working so well until then though. That will be the last piece to slot in! View attachment 1744332
View attachment 1744331

This is awesome!

 

[VincePopcorn]

Hi folks, thanks so much for your assistance along the way here. I think I've made a bit of a breakthrough, and I'm hoping it might help someone else down the line. It solves a few of the issues I've had, and apologies if it has already been covered and I've missed it.

Here are some issues I have been facing:

- some of the LEDs were not sequencing.
- when leaving the device on to test battery capacity, and allowing it to die completely, when recharged my pi completely stopped outputting an image! Just white screen.
- when testing magnetic reed switches, the current draw at startup was enough to fry them, and become stuck on.

This solution solves all those problems, so I think if anyone attempts this build moving forward, this might be worth implementing.

I was pulling power from a battery through a "Adafruit Mini Lipo w/Mini-B USB Jack - USB LiIon/LiPoly charger". Notably, this only supplies 3.7V from a single cell Lipo, and I suspect this was Browning out the circuits.

I've just replaced it with a "PowerBoost 500 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 500mA+" PowerBoost 500 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 500mA+
This not only solves my low voltage related issues, but also includes an "off" switch (by grounding a pin), which carries basically no current. So, the reed switch works perfectly with it.
Hope this helps someone!
Thanks,
Vince.

 

[VincePopcorn]

Hi Folks,

Another update from me.

SOUND EFFECTS, this time.

I've managed to alter the Arduino code so that I get a sound effect from the Pico too. I don't know if this is useful to anyone. I know some of you have tried and had unsatisfactory results, and I'm not sure if my results are necessarily any better than yours (perhaps not), but they're good enough for me. Loops with no pops or clicks, and no major hiss or noise, etc.

Attached is a video of the sound. The Arduino code is using PWM and some overclocking to generate the audio, which I'm feeding through a very cheap "Class D" PAM8302A amp board (I believe it's an Adafruit knock off), and into a really cheap 8-ohm speaker.

The audio is NOT running at max volume in the video (the PAM8320A has a little pot for volume control). I suspect a nicer speaker might result in a nicer audio sound, but what I have here is good enough for me.

Amp is here (pack of 5 for under £5): 1/2/5/10PCS PAM8302 Class D 2.5W Mono Amplifier Board Audio Module | eBay
Speaker is here (pack of 5 for under £4): 0.25W 0.5W 1W 2W Slim Speaker 8 ohm 20mm-40mm for Arduino Pi Electronic Project | eBay

I'm not sure how to get the updated code to anyone, but it's basically an update to Arky's Main.ino and a .h file for the audio sample. I'm not a coding expert. Happy to share the code if someone can tell me how, or let me know where to send it!

In the meantime, if anyone else fancies having a go at doing what I did, I found this post (it took a LOT of googling to find!) which helped greatly: https://community.element14.com/cha...posts/playing-wav-audio-files-from-usb-folder
(FWIW, I never managed to get the "WAV file from USB Folder" part of this post working, but stuck with the simple conversion of WAV file to .h header file, and played it from the project directly. Good enough for me, considering I only want the tricorder to play this one loop).

Video of it playing attached!

Thanks,

Vince