The "I'm painting a Captain America Shield" thread

Exactly. I just pre drilled the pilot holes before painting. Once the paint job and gloss was complete the star was the last thing to rivet on. Be careful when you make that final squeeze on the hand riveter. When I snaps your hand may want to jerk. If you aren't careful, the nose may ding the shield.
 
Ok looks like I'm back in business.

I've definitely waited too long with my sled build. I spent most of yesterday/today removing the rust spots... then after I untaped it I noticed some rusting again... looks like I might be going or a battle damaged look.

I also might be throwing down a thin black marker between the lines. The lines were definitely not as clean looking with the tape job I did as I wanted... but honestly I'm just happy to be getting close to wrapping this up



 
Ok looks like I'm back in business.

I've definitely waited too long with my sled build. I spent most of yesterday/today removing the rust spots... then after I untaped it I noticed some rusting again... looks like I might be going or a battle damaged look.

I also might be throwing down a thin black marker between the lines. The lines were definitely not as clean looking with the tape job I did as I wanted... but honestly I'm just happy to be getting close to wrapping this up

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c373/jessegun23/IMG_6153.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c373/jessegun23/IMG_6155.jpg

If you do end up stripping and starting over, here's a tip for getting cleaner lines/reducing bleed. Mask your area as normal, making sure you press the tape down well, use a razor to cut out the masking, then make sure it is still pressed down well. For the shield, since you're keeping bare metal against the red, spray some clear on the area that is going to be red, you'll spray the red over top of this clear. What this does is seals the tape/masking edge. Since it is clear, you won't really notice if it bleeds. Then spray the red over the clear. You'll still clear the whole thing after you unmask and have your colors down. I use this method when masking for a two tone paint. Normally you use two colors, but the clear will work the same since you're keeping some bare metal.
 
Re: The "I'm painting a Captain America Shield" thread

Im a long time lurker here but I've done this build twice as a sled and I'm working on a 3rd build. After just watching the new movie I noticed the colors on the shield look a lot more matte than candy in this film. Is that just me? What do you guys think as far as achieving this look?

- - - Updated - - -

avengers-age-ultron-captain-america-costume.jpgCapAmericaMovieShield-01.jpg
 
My shield ended up being a tad on the opaque and glossy side to what I had originally planned. However I don't think I could face starting over again! I'm envious of how much easier everything seems to be to get in the USA compared to here. It's not perfect but it's about as perfect as my budget was going to afford; there's nothing on the back other than a "BROTHERFOSTER" data plate, I may add brackets and leather in the future but for now I'm mounting it on a wall so I didn't see much point.


1.jpg
 
If you do end up stripping and starting over, here's a tip for getting cleaner lines/reducing bleed. Mask your area as normal, making sure you press the tape down well, use a razor to cut out the masking, then make sure it is still pressed down well. For the shield, since you're keeping bare metal against the red, spray some clear on the area that is going to be red, you'll spray the red over top of this clear. What this does is seals the tape/masking edge. Since it is clear, you won't really notice if it bleeds. Then spray the red over the clear. You'll still clear the whole thing after you unmask and have your colors down. I use this method when masking for a two tone paint. Normally you use two colors, but the clear will work the same since you're keeping some bare metal.

To expand a bit further on the painting tips to get clean lines. Make sure you aren't pulling up the tape prematurely. If you pull it up too early, the paint on the tape won't separate cleanly from the paint that is on your shield.
 
To expand a bit further on the painting tips to get clean lines. Make sure you aren't pulling up the tape prematurely. If you pull it up too early, the paint on the tape won't separate cleanly from the paint that is on your shield.

hmmm could be the case as well... i waited about 45min-1hr maybe before removing the tape
 
THen I used the magnets (with each one inside a piece of cut off latex glove finger which helped avoid any scratches to the surface) and let the whole thing sit for 24 hrs. Even taking this much care, I still got squeeze out so I wiped it up and then masked around the whole star to catch any more squeeze out which it continued to do little by little over the course of maybe 90 min.

Thanks for the neodymium magnet tip. I had a panic attack yesterday when one of the star points snagged onto my carpet and bent upwards when I was putting on the shield brackets as the last step in assembling the shield. Pressed it back neatly, placed some JB weld beneath it, and put the magnets in place to keep the point clamped down. Wish I did this for all the five points when I initially put the star down instead of using tape, towels, barbells, and books for weight.
 
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Anyone know how to get a spun shield? No one can do it locally.

Search interstate for any metal spinners and give them the specs for what you'll need (you'll find them lurking in a whole bunch of threads on here).
Depending on where you're located, they may not be that far away from you, otherwise certain spinners you can find will ship internationally (I believe there's one in the UK that will) – otherwise, the occasion blank pops up in the junkyard here that you could grab.

I don't have a local supplier either, however there is an interstate one with reasonable shipping that means I can source blanks for a good price for personal projects or commissions.

Quite a few people here have grabbed their blanks from eBay too.
 
When using the duplicolor, is anyone putting primer down first or just washing the blank with acetone and then spraying?

I don't recall anyone in this thread using primer as it will hide the metal you want to come through a bit. It was also suggested to use lacquer thinner rather than acetone to do the pre-paint wipe down.
 

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