Prop making with CNC

here is a link to mine cutting an r2d2 leg piece, not as advanced as your setup, but it does a good job on large and small tasks for me.

YouTube - Cnc cutting an r2 d2 leg piece

correct me if i'm wrong, but that looks like a fineline automation design... the 2x3 i think.

I actually have their 2x4 design myself

I haven't taken pictures of it in a while, but this was from right after i got it and was testing my motor calibration.

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Nice machines guys - I'd love to see more what you all have cut. AML - your machine looks rigid enough to make cuts several times faster than 50IPM.

I'm in the beginning phase of a 5-axis build myself. Some parts already (25mm rails, Harmonic Drive gearheads) but am working on completing the computer model before beginning construction. I'm definitely excited about all of the opportunities that CNC opens up in the replica and prop hobby.
 
Yes , it is the fineline automation one. Nice eye :)

All my electronics I took with my from my first machine, a fireball v90.
 
What else are you guys doing with your machines? I'd love to build one, but I don't want it to sit around unused after I complete it. I'm thinking there are all kinds of GB props (traps, Iona shells, etc.) that could be done easily. Anyone tried any face or bust carvings?
 
What else are you guys doing with your machines? I'd love to build one, but I don't want it to sit around unused after I complete it. I'm thinking there are all kinds of GB props (traps, Iona shells, etc.) that could be done easily. Anyone tried any face or bust carvings?

This is something I have planned for my machine. More so helmets, but it is the same idea.
 
What else are you guys doing with your machines? I'd love to build one, but I don't want it to sit around unused after I complete it. I'm thinking there are all kinds of GB props (traps, Iona shells, etc.) that could be done easily. Anyone tried any face or bust carvings?

Ive done r2d2's, busts, and a bunch of signs for people. The possibilities are endless. If you have one, and are creative, it will never just sit there, you will find yourself looking for all kinds of things to try out.
 
I still wonder how many other RPF'ers have CNC's. And if not that many, then why not? People spend tons on parts and prop replicas others make, but with a cnc, you can make many of those things yourself, and share your props in electronic files that will allow others to have them.
 
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I still wonder how many other RPF'ers have CNC's. And if not that many, then why not? People spend tons on parts and prop replicas others make, but with a cnc, you can make many of those things yourself, and share your props in electronic files that will allow others to have them.

I think it's a combination of several factors. The price point is high for a commercial machine and the learning curve is steep for a DIY machine(unless building from a kit).

The software is foreign to most (especially CAM) and if you don't have 3D modeling experience, simply getting models can be an uphill battle.

To create models, toolpaths, and machine parts requires quite a few skill sets.
 
My only complaint is it's slow, the fastest I've run it is 50 inches a minute. I've tried about every trick and it just doesn't want to go any faster.


Have you tried converting X and Y to ballscrews? If your steppers have enough torque, you can get .200 pitch ballscrews that would double your speeds if you currently have .100 acme leadscrews.

It doesn't come without cost though. Theoretically you lose resolution, but the ballscrews will be more precise across their entire length. So basically, if you're getting .001/step with leadscrews, you'll only get .002/step with ballscrews. But with leadscrews, a 1.000 inch move on one part of the table may be 1.010 on another part due to the lack of precision. Ballscrews, especially if they're ground, are going to be the same moves all over the table. All this is mostly irrelevant to the prop builder though, due to the materials and tolerances used.

You could also try belt drive. It's tougher to hold tolerances, but you can get .005 pretty easily, and that's better than the expansion qualities of MDF. Belt drives can go INSANELY fast, but you really see benefits in rapid speeds. You can realistically get 300ipm rapids, but you probably wouldn't want to cut anywhere near that speed.

I know from my experiences it's agonizing to watch your machine moving through air, not cutting anything, at 50 ipm.

This is mostly for anyone looking to build a CNC machine. This guy on eBay, eBay My World - momus_design, has a CNC design that is belt driven and can cut aluminum using a trim router. The plans are very well written, but if you're not very handy with tools I would go with the OP's book until you outgrow that machine. I bought them, but got halfway through the build and decided to convert a manual milling machine because I'm going to be cutting alot of steel and aluminum. I may finish and sell it however.

Anyway, good luck to everyone. I'm glad to see CNC becoming more mainstream.
 
how big is your power supply? Sometimes if you have a stronger power supply you can run it faster. Ive run mine at 100 inches per minute with no problem
 
For those cutting Styrene with a CNC, what have you used for bits along with feed rate and router speeds?

Thanks,

-E
 
Anybody here checked out the Makerbot? Big milling tables are way cool, but plastic deposition might be more suited to some propmaking tasks. You can get the Makerbot kit for about $1000. The working volume is 4"x4"x6". MakerBot Industries - Robots That Make Things..

Fabbaloo Blog - Fabbaloo is a good news site for this sort of stuff.

And, you can make a 3D file, and send it to be made for a fee. Shapeways | Passionate about creating is even doing sintered metal! Anybody here try that out yet?
 
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