Are you using a torch or hot iron on these pieces Filmzy? They look fantastic, spot on.View attachment 1814952while waiting for some apoxy to set I thought lets get some little things out of the way.View attachment 1814953View attachment 1814954
Gas tourch all the way . Zink solder . It’s on the low end of silver solder but still need more heat than an iron can give. I’ve had the same real and acid flux 36 years since I first started a Hensons creature shop. I dread the day it runs out.Are you using a torch or hot iron on these pieces Filmzy? They look fantastic, spot on.
all the problems with version one came from not knowing the actual Barrel size and assuming the planking was 3.25". I'm much happier this time that things are closer to accurate but then again no one can ever know for sure.It's fun to see the pieces of the puzzle coming together...and according to plan
She's doing fine the way she's building the boat. Filmzy knows what she's doing. I doubt she'll have any leaks. The mast is an interesting part of both Orca 1 and 2. Orca 1 the mast was round and a real wooden mast off of an old Ywal. Orca 2's mast was an oval shape mast off of (are you ready?) a Hobbie Cat.Seems like it would be easier to just build some styrofoam pieces into the hull to deal with accidental sinking risks.
Maybe make some removable foam inserts to occupy the front hold while the boat is being sailed on the water. But they would need to be secured well, or else you'd risk the Titanic's grand staircase issue if the boat ever started sinking (the buoyant wood tore off its mountings as the room filled with water).
This is probably an idea that needed to be built into the boat from the start. Maybe consider it for your future 1/6th build? I'm picturing two versions of the front hold. A realistic interior "tub" for static display, which can be removed in one piece, and a big piece of flotation foam that can be inserted (securely) in its place for when the boat is being sailed on water.
The front hold's foam volume might not be enough to keep the whole boat afloat. But it could buy some time if the boat is going down and you are scrambling to save it.
I guess that boat is gonna add up to be pretty heavy (at either size).
I've wondered if the real (1:1 scale) Orca's stability problems could have been improved with a lightened-up mast. A modern replica of the real boat could use aluminum tube or carbon fiber or something. Even just lightening the upper half of the mast alone would probably make a big difference.
So that's what that piece is on the stern??? I always thought it was a gas vent. I know from the movie during the 2nd barrel chase, one of the water pumps can be seen working that's mounted on the port side midship waterline.As the sub pump need to actually work for emergency sinking events. I actually had to make it practical, it’s so smallView attachment 1816226View attachment 1816227View attachment 1816228
I think the pump you are talking about is from the water cooling engine because it’s below the water line. I have a pump in version 1, it’s hooked up to a read switch so if any water did get inside it turn on. This one works the same. It’s not needed but better to have it.So that's what that piece is on the stern??? I always thought it was a gas vent. I know from the movie during the 2nd barrel chase, one of the water pumps can be seen working that's mounted on the port side midship waterline.
You're going to have a working water pump?!?! Just too cool. Can't wait to see that work,.....or not work,....no sinking lol.
Makes sense. With the epoxy resin applied like V1 you're not going to have any problems.I think the pump you are talking about is from the water cooling engine because it’s below the water line. I have a pump in version 1, it’s hooked up to a read switch so if any water did get inside it turn on. This one works the same. It’s not needed but better to have it.