bryant2305
New Member
your son look amazing in the iron man suit
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Ironman Costume for 5yr old - LINKS on PAGE 1 - tips & important bits
- Thread starter indiefilmgeek
- Start date
bryant2305
New Member
I was so inspired and very amazed with your work,
Thank you for all the information's posted in your thread Indie,
I have used it to help me to build my son an iron man suit for his school book character day.
Thank you for all the information's posted in your thread Indie,
I have used it to help me to build my son an iron man suit for his school book character day.
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itsArchieboy
New Member
Your final paint is awesome!! But it goes a b c e d f... Is it in order or in order by the letter.. And do you use adhesive promoter before your clear coat?
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
Oh, my.... I just noticed that! Wow... hope that didn't mess anyone up! :lol
It's now fixed! :$
itsArchieboy
New Member
I was wondering, which color plasti dip do you recommend and are there different color adhesion promoters? Or is it just clear? Because your black cap on yours is throwing me off..
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
I was wondering, which color plasti dip do you recommend and are there different color adhesion promoters? Or is it just clear? Because your black cap on yours is throwing me off..
I used mostly red plasti-dip - it was easier to cover with the final red color that way.
The adhesive promoter is clear.
Kurtis876
Well-Known Member
Re: Ironman Costume for 5yr old - Finished pics pg22-23!
Hey man, first of all, I am humbled by your wonderful work. great stuff. amazing! I wish I had seen this thread soonerthumbsup:thumbsup
My question(s) to you sir are these:
just being sure I didn't miss anything: there was no surface prep on the eva foam before adding plastidip, correct?
and the foam pieces: now that some time has passed, how has everything held up? anything falling apart or paint coming loose, etc?
one last thing: how was the flexibility/cracking/creasing on the foam pieces after painting? extreme? not so much?
thanks man, total mind blowing work
Hey man, first of all, I am humbled by your wonderful work. great stuff. amazing! I wish I had seen this thread sooner
thumbsup:thumbsupMy question(s) to you sir are these:
just being sure I didn't miss anything: there was no surface prep on the eva foam before adding plastidip, correct?
and the foam pieces: now that some time has passed, how has everything held up? anything falling apart or paint coming loose, etc?
one last thing: how was the flexibility/cracking/creasing on the foam pieces after painting? extreme? not so much?
thanks man, total mind blowing work
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
Re: Ironman Costume for 5yr old - Finished pics pg22-23!
No, but I was also using some GREAT eva foam - very, very smooth surface.
Actually, the suit is on Mikey's mannequin in the boy's room. The lights still work and the suit looks like it did after he wore it to several Halloween events last year.
**The satin fabric is NOT fully stretched, so it looks 'wrinkly' in this picture. When it was on Mikey, that was pulled tight and looked mostly smooth. Also the black suspender straps usually are threaded behind the under-armor torso section so you don't see them... I was just lazy when I put the thing up the last time. :$
Here is a look at some of the worst of the 'cracking'... which is mostly from the clear coat. The foam, plasti-dip, adhesive promoter and then paint (without clear coat) should have almost no cracking. But it won't necessarily be as 'glossy'.
Here is the right arm. The thin cracks show up right at the high-tension and flexing areas at the joints.
And here is a close-up of the other arm (sorry for the dust... my camera is too good). Again same areas.
Here is the same type of thing for the legs...
And finally, here is a detailed look at the top of the chest. Again... Sorry for the dust - I should really get around to dusting more often. :$
I'd personally classify these as minor issues for a 5yr old build that was worn hard (rolling in the leaves and a couple of good tumbles) and then has been laying around for months prior to be propped back up on it's mannequin.
IF you're talking about building something for a 5yr old or for a short fan-film or something, I'd say this method is great.
IF, on the other hand, you want to invest your time and money into an adult suit that you will wear and display for a long time, you might want to consider something more durable. Excessive wear and tear on foam will eventually rip high-torque or high-stress places (like around joint). Hardening those areas with re-enforcing material and epoxy or resin (like I did) might help, but it will likely all need to be serviced from time to time and repaired regularly.
For my newest build (Victorian Age Ironman), I'm planning to use pva glue and then smooth-cast plastic coating over thicker foam. This should provide me with fairly hardened pieces that will be much, much more durable over the long-term than just plasti-dip and paint over eva foam.
Whichever method you select, I'm sure you'll have a blast - I know I did!thumbsup
No, but I was also using some GREAT eva foam - very, very smooth surface.
Actually, the suit is on Mikey's mannequin in the boy's room. The lights still work and the suit looks like it did after he wore it to several Halloween events last year.
**The satin fabric is NOT fully stretched, so it looks 'wrinkly' in this picture. When it was on Mikey, that was pulled tight and looked mostly smooth. Also the black suspender straps usually are threaded behind the under-armor torso section so you don't see them... I was just lazy when I put the thing up the last time. :$
Here is a look at some of the worst of the 'cracking'... which is mostly from the clear coat. The foam, plasti-dip, adhesive promoter and then paint (without clear coat) should have almost no cracking. But it won't necessarily be as 'glossy'.
Here is the right arm. The thin cracks show up right at the high-tension and flexing areas at the joints.
And here is a close-up of the other arm (sorry for the dust... my camera is too good). Again same areas.
Here is the same type of thing for the legs...
And finally, here is a detailed look at the top of the chest. Again... Sorry for the dust - I should really get around to dusting more often. :$
I'd personally classify these as minor issues for a 5yr old build that was worn hard (rolling in the leaves and a couple of good tumbles) and then has been laying around for months prior to be propped back up on it's mannequin.
IF you're talking about building something for a 5yr old or for a short fan-film or something, I'd say this method is great.
IF, on the other hand, you want to invest your time and money into an adult suit that you will wear and display for a long time, you might want to consider something more durable. Excessive wear and tear on foam will eventually rip high-torque or high-stress places (like around joint). Hardening those areas with re-enforcing material and epoxy or resin (like I did) might help, but it will likely all need to be serviced from time to time and repaired regularly.
For my newest build (Victorian Age Ironman), I'm planning to use pva glue and then smooth-cast plastic coating over thicker foam. This should provide me with fairly hardened pieces that will be much, much more durable over the long-term than just plasti-dip and paint over eva foam.
Whichever method you select, I'm sure you'll have a blast - I know I did!
thumbsup
Kurtis876
Well-Known Member
Re: Ironman Costume for 5yr old - Finished pics pg22-23!
Mannn you are officially one of the best answerers in history. I believe I'm using the same foam as you, the wandy foam... it's really great and cuts well. Funny you'd mention it, I'm using the smooth-on 321 over PVA on my first build ever, the mark iii in foam. I'm still getting the knack for it, but I am very pleased with the results! not so much the process.
I like the idea of the plasti-dip, and may potentially use it on the biceps. but as I have very little left to do, aw heck I may just finish the whole suit in the smooth-on.
I am freakishly impressed with your results! the whole build is really remarkable. Can't wait to see what you do with the smooth-on. I'm using 2 thin layers right now, and it flexes with no cracking, but does tend to crease from inward flex. Stop by my thread sometime if you get the hankering man. and keep up the excellent work!thumbsup:thumbsup
IF, on the other hand, you want to invest your time and money into an adult suit that you will wear and display for a long time, you might want to consider something more durable. Excessive wear and tear on foam will eventually rip high-torque or high-stress places (like around joint). Hardening those areas with re-enforcing material and epoxy or resin (like I did) might help, but it will likely all need to be serviced from time to time and repaired regularly.
For my newest build (Victorian Age Ironman), I'm planning to use pva glue and then smooth-cast plastic coating over thicker foam. This should provide me with fairly hardened pieces that will be much, much more durable over the long-term than just plasti-dip and paint over eva foam.
Whichever method you select, I'm sure you'll have a blast - I know I did!
Mannn you are officially one of the best answerers in history. I believe I'm using the same foam as you, the wandy foam... it's really great and cuts well. Funny you'd mention it, I'm using the smooth-on 321 over PVA on my first build ever, the mark iii in foam. I'm still getting the knack for it, but I am very pleased with the results! not so much the process.
I like the idea of the plasti-dip, and may potentially use it on the biceps. but as I have very little left to do, aw heck I may just finish the whole suit in the smooth-on.
I am freakishly impressed with your results! the whole build is really remarkable. Can't wait to see what you do with the smooth-on. I'm using 2 thin layers right now, and it flexes with no cracking, but does tend to crease from inward flex. Stop by my thread sometime if you get the hankering man. and keep up the excellent work!
thumbsup:thumbsup
Kurtis876
Well-Known Member
I guess I could have left a link:
http://www.therpf.com/f24/wip-first-iron-man-mark-iii-foam-158222/
Thanks for your input man!
http://www.therpf.com/f24/wip-first-iron-man-mark-iii-foam-158222/
Thanks for your input man!
erickhelena
New Member
hey hello one question , how do u put on the helmet?? like this?? Iron man Mk3 helmet fitting tutorial - YouTube i also found this http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad70/kagn/h9.jpg but in the image how does it attach ? magnetos ???
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indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
The photobucket image is the way I went. The back is attached with rare-earth magnets. The best picture of these is in THIS post from the thread.
Hope that helps!
:thumbsuperickhelena
New Member
ahhh thnx man i will use magnets i got some , then the jaw is attach to the helmet and it doesnt move , now the back part are these pieces ? ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting are the 2 pieces or just the one at the bottom ?
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
Yes, the jaw in mine is attached to the main body of the helmet (it doesn't move or come off).
Regarding your picture, you'll want to include both those back sections in the removable back design. The decision you'll need to make is whether to include the ear circles or not. You can have them come off with the back section, or you can have the back section end right below those and leave them attached to the main helmet section (as in the picture you included in your first post above).
For mine, I used the natural ridge around the ear circle section and included them with the removable back piece... but I've seen it done both ways.
Regarding your picture, you'll want to include both those back sections in the removable back design. The decision you'll need to make is whether to include the ear circles or not. You can have them come off with the back section, or you can have the back section end right below those and leave them attached to the main helmet section (as in the picture you included in your first post above).
For mine, I used the natural ridge around the ear circle section and included them with the removable back piece... but I've seen it done both ways.
erickhelena
New Member
hey thnkx a lot and i thinkl i will attach the cirlces to the helmet it seems more complicated if the circles come off
and i thinkl i will attach the cirlces to the helmet it seems more complicated if the circles come off
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erickhelena
New Member
hey one question , how many LEDs did u use for the eyes ?
indiefilmgeek
Sr Member
5 LED's per eye. I have some additional details on the magnets used and wiring of the eyes. Just PM me with your email address and I'll forward you the email where I have all that info detailed.
erickhelena
New Member
thnx a lot , i am sending u my email addres
