Ghostbusters Proton Pack WIP (All done!)
- Thread starter Crix
- Start date
Davy Jones
Sr Member
Re: Ghostbusters Proton Pack WIP
Saw these packs in person in Ft. Collins. Looking great guys!
Saw these packs in person in Ft. Collins. Looking great guys!
trendkiller
New Member
Re: Ghostbusters Proton Pack WIP
looks great!
i like the acrylic cut pieces....cleaaaan!
looks great!
i like the acrylic cut pieces....cleaaaan!
Crix
Member
Re: Ghostbusters Proton Pack WIP
It was great to meet you there, too bad you were just visiting, it's always great to meet up with other prop builders!
Still need to do the ribbon cable, drill and tap holes in the ion cap, and finish programming the gun lights and pack sound, but we're basically done.
Finally.
It was great to meet you there, too bad you were just visiting, it's always great to meet up with other prop builders!
Still need to do the ribbon cable, drill and tap holes in the ion cap, and finish programming the gun lights and pack sound, but we're basically done.
Finally.
Onkelpsycho
Sr Member
very nice, man... what is the total amount what you spend in one pack?!?
Crix
Member
A ballpark estimate on the pack in the last picture is somewhere around $1200, but I made my own lights using Arduino, and my gun is mostly metal. (As soon as the light covers come in, I'll get some cool close-up shots of it.)
That, of course, doesn't include the cost of the woodshop my friend and I had to purchase and stock to begin this project.
That, of course, doesn't include the cost of the woodshop my friend and I had to purchase and stock to begin this project.
Crix
Member
I don't mean to double post, but:
I decided to just add another turn and a half to the ribbon cable and it's as good as I think I'm going to get it without overly stressing the cable. I'm too tired right now, I'll take pictures tomorrow.
In other news, I decided I officially hate opening my pack more than I really need to, so I devised a simple way to charge my battery from the outside. Since I don't have one of the batteries with quick disconnects, I had to figure out a way to access the battery leads from the outside without electrocuting myself constantly.
What I did was hide a DPDT switch on the motherboard down by the kidney pad, along with two bolts with the head cut off. I insulated the bolts with electrical tape and hot glued them in place, soldered them to the switch, along with the battery and added quick disconnects to the pack electronics to allow me to separate the motherboard from the shell easily. If I flick the switch 'ON', the battery is connected to the bolt posts, if it's 'OFF', the battery is connected to the electronics (which have yet another switch in between the battery and electronics, so I can have everything in a safely 'off' state.
I still need to trim my ribbon cable down, I'm just scared to do it until I know for sure it's exactly how I want it. The Arduino and sound attachment are hiding in the booster box, the sound amp is hiding up in the gearbox, and I can almost almost fit a second speaker in the top of the sync gen. I'll probably find a second, smaller speaker to go there. I need to test my current speaker's sound level first.
I decided to just add another turn and a half to the ribbon cable and it's as good as I think I'm going to get it without overly stressing the cable. I'm too tired right now, I'll take pictures tomorrow.
In other news, I decided I officially hate opening my pack more than I really need to, so I devised a simple way to charge my battery from the outside. Since I don't have one of the batteries with quick disconnects, I had to figure out a way to access the battery leads from the outside without electrocuting myself constantly.
What I did was hide a DPDT switch on the motherboard down by the kidney pad, along with two bolts with the head cut off. I insulated the bolts with electrical tape and hot glued them in place, soldered them to the switch, along with the battery and added quick disconnects to the pack electronics to allow me to separate the motherboard from the shell easily. If I flick the switch 'ON', the battery is connected to the bolt posts, if it's 'OFF', the battery is connected to the electronics (which have yet another switch in between the battery and electronics, so I can have everything in a safely 'off' state.
I still need to trim my ribbon cable down, I'm just scared to do it until I know for sure it's exactly how I want it. The Arduino and sound attachment are hiding in the booster box, the sound amp is hiding up in the gearbox, and I can almost almost fit a second speaker in the top of the sync gen. I'll probably find a second, smaller speaker to go there. I need to test my current speaker's sound level first.
Onkelpsycho
Sr Member
always interesting to see pics from inside... :thumbsup
The Kreator
Member
I really like the charging connectors for the battery. That's exactly the step I'm on right now with my pack, and haven't quite decided how I want to do it.
My original plan was to simply add a round barrel tip to the ac adapter instead of the gator clips, and install the female socket on the pack similar to most devices with ac adapters. Wasn't sure about adding a switch to activate the port, but that's a very good idea.
My original plan was to simply add a round barrel tip to the ac adapter instead of the gator clips, and install the female socket on the pack similar to most devices with ac adapters. Wasn't sure about adding a switch to activate the port, but that's a very good idea.
