Factory Entertainment MIB 2 Neuralyzer issue - not powering on

pakken

pakken

New Member
20240307_153312.jpg


Hey guys, I could really use some guidance on how to disassemble this unit. The neuralyzer is completely dead ever since I added the correct 1.5v e90 battery to test, even though it has been stored on display case without battery for several years. I don't know why it doesn't power on, but I know when I left the new battery in there, it did drain the battery while the neuralyzer is still dead (no lights, no sound or anything), I suspect there is a short somewhere. If anyone has this particular item, would really appreciate if you have pictures on how to properly disassemble so I can figure out the cause of this malfunction/dead unit. Thank you
 
I have the same problem apparently they are notorious for the connections/wires breaking when you activate them, at present my flashy thing does not function! :(
 
I bought mine many years ago it has the Blue light (white camera flash) and is without the digital display, at the time I did contact Factory Entertainment several times but they never replied. It would be great to have some schematics so I could disassemble and re-solder the wires/connectors which I am 100% sure is the problem! My Neuralyzer came with a clear upright display case!
 
I wrote an email and they refuse to repair as it is out of warranty. Even though it sat on the display case for many years, they don't offer any solution on repairing the issue, not even a manual how to take it apart. Although their solution is to send this one and offer me 15% discount towards the new one and I was not going to do that by a long shot. I do not recommend them, if ANYTHING happens with your neuralyzer after purchase, they will leave you high and dry. I really wished they can do better.....
 
As for the circuit board, I think somewhere at the bottom where the battery is, the battery compartment is stuck to the bottom and I don't want to break that. But it is weird that I can jiggle and twist a little. It is very tempting but I assume something is screwed in because that plastic battery compartment can move very little at a time. And I assume because it's long cylinder tube, the board most likely be shoved in there with wires all bunched up
 
pakken said:
I wrote an email and they refuse to repair as it is out of warranty. Even though it sat on the display case for many years, they don't offer any solution on repairing the issue, not even a manual how to take it apart. Although their solution is to send this one and offer me 15% discount towards the new one and I was not going to do that by a long shot. I do not recommend them, if ANYTHING happens with your neuralyzer after purchase, they will leave you high and dry. I really wished they can do better.....
Click to expand...
It is a shame because it seems to be a very good replica of the actual hero version, but their customer care is nil! I for one will not be buying anything from them in the future!
 
I'm still waiting for Factory Entertainment to contact me for a resolution on this issue.... it's been about a week from now since I emailed them
 
Honestly, I wouldn't expect a company to resolve an issue for an item that is out of warranty. As you said, it's been many years.

Unethical tip: Buy a new one from a retailer with a hassle-free return policy, since they're still available, and return this one as defective.
 
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Hi Pakken -
.
Can you post a video explaining how it is suppose to work?
How does it turn on and off and are there any other buttons.
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I see there is a battery holder on the bottom end.
And it takes 1 N battery.
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P.S.
I did see a video off the prop on YT, so you won't have to supply one.
..
Looking at the video it indicates that it turns itself on automatically when the top pops up.
There is a switch involved somewhere inside that could be damaged or stuck in the "open" position..
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.
1710717124777.png

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Is the switch cracked, damaged or stuck in, in any way?
Maybe a "cold solder" joint/connection and it is loose.......
Is there corrosion on either of the battery terminals?
.
.
 
Last edited:
Hi like the author of this thread I am after details on how to disassemble the Neuralyzer to repair the fault (be it a design fault) is clearly in the power on switch or its connections?
Cheers
Andy
 
1710759987440.png
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Hi Pakken -
.
I see you got the top (popup part) out of the body.
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Does it look screwed together or glued it some way?
Maybe some release tabs?
Is the top body composed of 2 parts with a seam?
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The circuit board could just slip in there from either end....most likely from the battery end.
The LEDs, "chip on board" and small speaker would be on a long board...
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(Post when you can)
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Last edited:
You can unscrew the top cap. You’ll see that there is a screw beneath the electronics. Be careful to remove the battery before getting in there as the capacitor for the flash can zap you and fry the whole thing.
 
propmaster2000 said:
View attachment 1801118.
Hi Pakken -
.
I see you got the top (popup part) out of the body.
.
Does it look screwed together or glued it some way?
Maybe some release tabs?
Is the top body composed of 2 parts with a seam?
.
The circuit board could just slip in there from either end....most likely from the battery end.
The LEDs, "chip on board" and small speaker would be on a long board...
.
(Post when you can)
.
Click to expand...


Hello and thank you for responding. The image you presented previously is not the on/off switch, the switch to operate is at the MAF area (I believe is the most common). The top part does unscrew, but there are so many wires I would not even go close to messing with it. Unless someone has experience with it, I would follow to the tee.
 
pakken said:
Hello and thank you for responding. The image you presented previously is not the on/off switch, the switch to operate is at the MAF area (I believe is the most common). The top part does unscrew, but there are so many wires I would not even go close to messing with it. Unless someone has experience with it, I would follow to the tee.
Click to expand...
Actually that is the on/off switch. You are referring to the button that triggers the flash.

When the unit is closed, that small black nub is depressed causing the unit to turn off (*in theory). When the unit is extended, the black nub sticks out causing the unit to power on the lights and sound effects. Pushing the MAF buttons triggers the flash effects.

*In theory because one of the defects of the original MIB2 units was the nub switch not being completely depressed when the unit is closed and as such, doesn't turn off. I have noticed that the "new" MIB unit has a different nub switch with sharp corners and and much more "crisp" switching action so that may have been done to alleviate the original MIB2 unit problem. I don't have a "new" MIB2 unit so I don't know if that has the same original MIB2 nub or if it has been updated.
 
Montagar said:
Actually that is the on/off switch. You are referring to the button that triggers the flash.

When the unit is closed, that small black nub is depressed causing the unit to turn off (*in theory). When the unit is extended, the black nub sticks out causing the unit to power on the lights and sound effects. Pushing the MAF buttons triggers the flash effects.

*In theory because one of the defects of the original MIB2 units was the nub switch not being completely depressed when the unit is closed and as such, doesn't turn off. I have noticed that the "new" MIB unit has a different nub switch with sharp corners and and much more "crisp" switching action so that may have been done to alleviate the original MIB2 unit problem. I don't have a "new" MIB2 unit so I don't know if that has the same original MIB2 nub or if it has been updated.
Click to expand...


The nub area you mentioned, sticks out normally. I put the N battery in and press on that nub, still dead :(
 

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