DL-44 / Greedo Killer build
- Thread starter userd1402
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Re: Which Denix?
OK, here's an interesting one;
i have an aluminium scope mount which I want to mount on the side of my zinc/zamac plated Mauser. I have no machining skills or experience in tapping threads into metal (especially with these bolts from across the pond with antiquated imperial measurements) so I'm thinking I will bond it on. Metal to metal. Must be quite straight-forward. It also means the bolt won't go through into the magazine so I can still fire it.
Question is; what product will bond aluminium to zinc PERMANENTLY?
OK, here's an interesting one;
i have an aluminium scope mount which I want to mount on the side of my zinc/zamac plated Mauser. I have no machining skills or experience in tapping threads into metal (especially with these bolts from across the pond with antiquated imperial measurements) so I'm thinking I will bond it on. Metal to metal. Must be quite straight-forward. It also means the bolt won't go through into the magazine so I can still fire it.
Question is; what product will bond aluminium to zinc PERMANENTLY?
Tatooinetako
Member
Re: Which Denix?
Nice!
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Nice!
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Re: Which Denix?
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I bet you some precise soldering could fix that.
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Darth Lars
Master Member
Re: Which Denix?
I am using it right now to fix a few problem spots where I had filled with home-made epoxy/metal putty.
Unfortunately the unblued finish is matte grey, and if the Aluminum Black on the applicator (I use cotton q-tips and pads) is weak, then the result could get closer to a half-darkened grey instead of a half-darkened metal. However, overspray and badly darkened areas can be swabbed off easily with acetone.
The finish being slightly matter shouldn't be a problem because I plan to oil it when the gun replica is completely black.
Thanks for the tip guys! I found a local brand that goes on and looks like grey primer - but darkens with Alumium Black to practically the same finish as the Denix's metal, maybe a little bit greyer and matter.
I am using it right now to fix a few problem spots where I had filled with home-made epoxy/metal putty.
Unfortunately the unblued finish is matte grey, and if the Aluminum Black on the applicator (I use cotton q-tips and pads) is weak, then the result could get closer to a half-darkened grey instead of a half-darkened metal. However, overspray and badly darkened areas can be swabbed off easily with acetone.
The finish being slightly matter shouldn't be a problem because I plan to oil it when the gun replica is completely black.
Re: Which Denix?
Stripped the Marushin down and spent some time with Brasso taking the gold off. Then drilled a couple of holes in the centre, avoiding the mag and cut the barrel end off to mount the flash hider. This is my first experience with zinc/zamac/whateverthehellthisis and I'm really impressed by just how tough this thing is. I only have very limited hand tools but it took me five minutes with a hacksaw to cut the barrel off! I also spent about an hour with a small round hand file making the centre of the Solo's Hold grill wider to fit the Marushin. It's now on and I think this is what engineers call an 'interference fit' thanks to my trusty rawhide mallet!
Stripped the Marushin down and spent some time with Brasso taking the gold off. Then drilled a couple of holes in the centre, avoiding the mag and cut the barrel end off to mount the flash hider. This is my first experience with zinc/zamac/whateverthehellthisis and I'm really impressed by just how tough this thing is. I only have very limited hand tools but it took me five minutes with a hacksaw to cut the barrel off! I also spent about an hour with a small round hand file making the centre of the Solo's Hold grill wider to fit the Marushin. It's now on and I think this is what engineers call an 'interference fit' thanks to my trusty rawhide mallet!
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Re: Which Denix?
I think the surface you have is still plating. My gold mgcs have a layer of gold that rubs off with brasso almost instantly, but underneath is nickel or chrome, then beneath that copper, then beneath that the actual metal. Your shiny surface looks just the same as the nickel/chrome on the MGCs. I'm curious to see if the blueing solution does anything to this surface, as it is a real pain to get beneath the chrome and then the copper.
I think the surface you have is still plating. My gold mgcs have a layer of gold that rubs off with brasso almost instantly, but underneath is nickel or chrome, then beneath that copper, then beneath that the actual metal. Your shiny surface looks just the same as the nickel/chrome on the MGCs. I'm curious to see if the blueing solution does anything to this surface, as it is a real pain to get beneath the chrome and then the copper.
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