Disney Store Kylo Ren lightsaber mods

[JaxAndTheMoon]

I bought two disney sabers. Just to have a lightweight moded hilt for the belt, AND a second one with moded blades.
What I wanted to do is to attach the two LED Stripes to each other.
Thought it would be easy... But the way to do it like I dit on the pic seems to be wrong. 
http://i64.tinypic.com/4vlnhi.jpg

It might be easier to just ditch the pre done board all together, and just make your own LED string blade. You could do it like Slothfurnace, and wire them all in parallel and then just run it to the same connections of the sound board.

Here's his Luke Hero build where he makes his own strings of LEDs: http://www.slothfurnace.com/sabers/ROTJLuke_02.html

 

[DizzyStrmtroopr]

I get it, both stock string blades, TECHNICALLY yes you could but I wouldn't. if you were to use the stock blades and wire them together youd have 2 negatives and 8 positives all wired up, as well as the same 1 led per inch ". . . . . ." effect of the lights. theres a string blade making tutorial on youtube, its not that hard with basic soldering skills.

 

[elgringdado]

Quick question here since I'd like to transplant Disney's saber electronics to another hilt (Gustavo's) - what are the measurements of soundboard in this saber?

 

[CurtisNewton]

...theres a string blade making tutorial on youtube, its not that hard with basic soldering skills.

Can you post the link, please?

 

[DizzyStrmtroopr]

Can you post the link, please?

 

[DizzyStrmtroopr]

Quick question here since I'd like to transplant Disney's saber electronics to another hilt (Gustavo's) - what are the measurements of soundboard in this saber?

ive put my back halves together but it was roughly 2 inches by 1 or 1.25 inches or so. there should be enough clearance for a transplant. the on/off/try me and the activation button are also on their own boards approx 1x0.5 inches. i left my try me toggled to always on since the space is now used by the sound chamber, and glued it closer to the main board. i havent uploaded any pics because i work overnights and am often on the forum at work so i cant get around to it

 

[cuttingedge]

Has anyone tried replacing the blade for a longer one?
Been thinking of buying one of these for that reason but I don't know what diameter the hole is or if the space in the hilt is enough to keep a 39 inch tube sturdy

 

[elgringdado]

ive put my back halves together but it was roughly 2 inches by 1 or 1.25 inches or so. there should be enough clearance for a transplant. the on/off/try me and the activation button are also on their own boards approx 1x0.5 inches. i left my try me toggled to always on since the space is now used by the sound chamber, and glued it closer to the main board. i havent uploaded any pics because i work overnights and am often on the forum at work so i cant get around to it

Thanks. I've ordered two of Disney's sabers, one will be transplanted do the new hilt and what's left will do as just the hilt to belt. The other one will have just the blades and LEDs changed.

 

[CurtisNewton]

I try to do it this way. But the top LEDs are much brighter now.

 

[DizzyStrmtroopr]

Has anyone tried replacing the blade for a longer one?
Been thinking of buying one of these for that reason but I don't know what diameter the hole is or if the space in the hilt is enough to keep a 39 inch tube sturdy

if you take apart the blade holder inside, a 1 inch OD tube fits as an exact replacement but youll have to drill a couple holes. its sturdy enough for light swinging but i would not suggest going crazy prequel moves with it or even light swordplay. you could risk snapping the hilt in half as all the force comes to a small surface area on the outer halves

 

[cuttingedge]

Cool, thanks, I'm only looking to use it with my cosplay not any dueling so it could work for that.
Is there much room to push it any deeper though? or do the electronics stop that?
Is it possible to get a picture of its insides?

 

[DizzyStrmtroopr]

the sides are held together by screw posts that are in the way so you cant recess it in any further. so you could dremel those out, but that's a lot of work for little gain, plus having to permanently epoxy the halves together, if you needed to take it apart again for any reason later on you're gonna have a bad time

 

[MasterObiWill]

Question Sir, is it big enough for a 32 inch blade that you would see on the former Force FX versions? I was thinking about getting a clear one then painting it with red transcluent paint

 

[DizzyStrmtroopr]

you can use any length. the base of the tube only fits in the hilt about 2 inches, and wont go further into the hilt due to the design

 

[Graphic Jordan]

Hey guys!
So I upgraded the Disney Store Saber. Here's a list of what I did, along with links to these parts. I also printed custom side flames, and a sleeve for the main blade.

This isn't complete. I'll be applying red tinted resin to the covers to both dye, and fuse them to the main blade as well.

I've attached some pics.

Here's a breakdown of the parts.

I followed Frank's breakdown to a tee.

1) 40" Red 1" Diameter Thin Walled Polycarbonate Tube
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-Thin-walled-Trans-Red-P…

2) 1" Red Bullet Tip
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Red-bullet-1-thin-walled-…

3) 3 x Red Luxeon Rebel LEDs
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Rebel-Star-P523.as…

4) 3 x Lens Holders
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/CreeRebel-Lens-Holder-P99…

5) 3 x 8.7 Degree Lens (Very important to get a good bright saber)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Collimator-Lens-87-deg-vi…
I also upgraded the speaker. I also modified the internal sleeve that accepts the blade, and it now can be removed with hidden set screws under the top ring. The side emitters fit with pressure.

 

[DizzyStrmtroopr]

I forgot to comment on the side tubes I used, those 52gauge cigar tubes from ebay are 1 inch diameter, about 6 inches long, and made of clear acrylic. I used epoxy to hold them on. the side emitter parts removed during disassembly wont slide over the new side blades without cutting and filling or remaking them.

 

[Ghostsoldier]

Cigar tubes...awesome idea.

 

[thesualc]

So C2E2 was this weekend and I finish my Disney store saber modification just in time!

The main mod I wanted to do was to make the blades detachable so I could display the saber itself without the blades (also made transportation easier).

So I struggled for a bit thinking how the heck I could get this guy to be detachable.....



I ended up starting with these little jumper guys because I felt I could 3D print something around them that would allow for easy attachment.



I soldered them up and tested it out on my wife's Rey/Luke Disney saber guts as I figured they were similar.




After a bit more thinking I printed these parts out and glued the wires to the inside ensuring a perfect fit.



I decided to attach the bottom connector with a screw from the side, btw, having the male pins at the bottom made a huge difference when attaching. I had the female connection on the Luke saber and it was a lot harder to get to connect.....

Onto more aesthetic mods!





I 3d printed the inner part from files you can grab on the knights of Ren facebook page, I had to print a few different scaled versions to get the fit just right.






I filled all the screw holes but the main battery one with bondo putty, added the wires, and sanded the sucker down till I was satisfied. O and of course tested the blade connection, and it works!



The side blades friction fit back in pretty nicely, and the main blade needed a little bit of vaseline schmoo to slide in without popping off the rubber ring.

Finished!!!!











I finished the saber with a black primer, then a textured black spray paint. The weathering was all done with brush and acrylics! I can make a video if anyone is interested to see the removable blades in action!

 

[Ghostsoldier]

That's one of the most amazing mods I've seen done to this saber! It would solve the problem of having two different hilts, which is a plus. I'd love to see a video of this mod in action!

 

[prime3446]

So C2E2 was this weekend and I finish my Disney store saber modification just in time!

The main mod I wanted to do was to make the blades detachable so I could display the saber itself without the blades (also made transportation easier).
View attachment 605838
So I struggled for a bit thinking how the heck I could get this guy to be detachable.....


View attachment 605839
I ended up starting with these little jumper guys because I felt I could 3D print something around them that would allow for easy attachment.

View attachment 605840
View attachment 605841
I soldered them up and tested it out on my wife's Rey/Luke Disney saber guts as I figured they were similar.

View attachment 605842
View attachment 605843
View attachment 605844
After a bit more thinking I printed these parts out and glued the wires to the inside ensuring a perfect fit.

View attachment 605845
View attachment 605847
I decided to attach the bottom connector with a screw from the side, btw, having the male pins at the bottom made a huge difference when attaching. I had the female connection on the Luke saber and it was a lot harder to get to connect.....

Onto more aesthetic mods!

View attachment 605848

View attachment 605849

I 3d printed the inner part from files you can grab on the knights of Ren facebook page, I had to print a few different scaled versions to get the fit just right.

View attachment 605851
View attachment 605852
View attachment 605853
View attachment 605854
View attachment 605855
I filled all the screw holes but the main battery one with bondo putty, added the wires, and sanded the sucker down till I was satisfied. O and of course tested the blade connection, and it works!

View attachment 605856
View attachment 605857
The side blades friction fit back in pretty nicely, and the main blade needed a little bit of vaseline schmoo to slide in without popping off the rubber ring.

Finished!!!!

View attachment 605858

View attachment 605859

View attachment 605860

View attachment 605861

View attachment 605862

I finished the saber with a black primer, then a textured black spray paint. The weathering was all done with brush and acrylics! I can make a video if anyone is interested to see the removable blades in action!

Please make a video !