Darkside501st's Iron Man Mk VII pepakura files - Password in First Post

FishHands said:
My progress..
Glued it all up ready for fiber glass here are a few pictures before fiber glassing. I think with alot of sanding this helmet might not be for trash! :D

View attachment 343195View attachment 343196View attachment 343198View attachment 343199View attachment 343200View attachment 343201
I'd love to hear your comments! Also can someone tell me what I need to do with the black lines? The ones near the cheeks,the ones that people call teeth. (2nd pic.)
Click to expand...

Hey bud!

Great attempt! Based on what I'm seeing here, I'm going to suggest that you either tighten up what you've got here or maybe consider a re-pep. You have a lot of cracks, and dents that are going to really translate into a lot of work on the back end when you start 'glassing and sanding. Again, just my two cents, but I'd at least try to close up those cracks and pop out the dents from the inside.

That's the bad news. The good news as I always say is that the second time around goes much quicker and that applies to the pepping discipline as well.

Also, don't worry about the "black lines". Those will go away once you start applying bondo over them and eventually primer and paint.
 
I'm building the tester mk 7 helmet now, I believe that the fit is supposed to be so tight you can't put it on in one piece, is that right. I've cut and glued everything except the pieces below the ears and the back bottom part. If I glue those on, will I still be able to put it on? Or should I try the fit another way with this tester? I hope you understand my problem.

-Edit: IMG_6314.JPGIMG_6317.JPGIMG_6313.JPGHere is what I have right now. The sides are gently touching my ears. Looking at the pictures I'd say the fit is about good, I'm only wondering if the helmet will hug my cheeks with the faceplate open like in the movies. The distance from the bridge of my nose to the helmet between the eyes is about 4 cm. Is that about what it is supposed to be, and will there be enough room for electronics for the faceplate? It probably needs some padding at the top to create some space for that.
-MTBrands
 
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Can anyone help me with this problem I encountered? The cutout on the top of the faceplate, which should just slide next to the lip bit of the topfront of the other part of the helmet, is spread wider apart than that lip. And as these parts aren't supposed to be glued together, how do I narrow the faceplate? I may be able to get some pictures later, but that will take while.
 
Hey, when will the v2 files or the v1 files be available? The v1 are not loading (I read why), and I would wait for the v2 files if they come out soon.
 
I am just logging on to give darkside huge props for taking the time to make these files and maintain them do they are available to everybody. Also to all the guys that have made and completed one of these suits....it is no easy task. Especially to make it look good. I thought the hard part was the pep, but the resin and fiber glass is really kicking my ass. Notjustthe process but getting it to look symmetrical and even is tough too. Have only bondoed the abs and mid section and finally looks decent but getting it to fit me is another story...even though it's to my scale. Hoping to have it all done in time for Halloween.I will post pictures if it doesn't turn out too bad. Lol....thanks again darkside.
 
hi. (hopefully not double post!!)
Any comments on the reason the bicep is in 3 pieces?
Is that for ease of glassing?

Any issues with the pieces not fitting afterwards when assembling?

Cheers
 
i am by no means an expert but i used binder clips to keep it all together from the inside, resined the outside with 2 coats, then cut and seperated the pieces so i could glass them. then i put back together with clips and resined it again from the outside to get it stick. had to heat the pieces with heat gun to get them to line up perfectly but it works
 
thanks laf,
Will do it that way.
I noticed one of the bottom supports on the main piece actually just end up floating.
Is that supposed to be attached to anything?
 
That gets connected to the bottom of the front piece. Once you have a couple coats of resin on it, you can cut the supports and glass the inside. The more bracing you have the better, it's easy to lose symmetry on a part without them.
 

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