Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 Uber Build - COMPLETED!

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Worked on the test circuit today... now I gotta warn ya, I'm not an electrician, never took electronics in school, nor did I ever take any classes to learn how to do this stuff... I basically am a tinkerer and everything I've learned is all from observation and messing around. A long time ago, I bought the VooDooFX R2-D2 Lighting Kit and nothing against VooDoo, they provide some really cool lighting kits for alot of different models and I love their stuff, but I was seriously disappointed here. Sure you had LEDs (4 in fact) but none of them flashed or did anything that even looked semi-cool. It was just a bunch of LEDs and a little circuit board with pre-soldered resisters on it, you also got a switch, some wire, a couple of pieces of shrink tubing, a piece of thick styrene (a 6"x4" square), and a same size piece of metal (I guess for shielding). Oh and some instructions for putting these into the model (which meant leaving the 3rd leg out of the body to hold the circuit board which would fit in the dome). Sounds like alot but for $50 bucks I was expecting alot more bang for the buck. Hell, I could have rigged up a few LEDs in the same manner alot cheaper and kept the 3rd leg in the picture. Matter of fact, if you want the design for this, send me $50 and I'll send ya the plans I made so you can do it youself! So, after finding this handy and extremely cool FREE program called Yenka (formerly Crocodile Clips) I began doing some research on a simple LED flasher circuit. Sure I could have bought a bunch of self blinking LEDs but then I wouldn't have any control over their flash rates at all. So I found this nifty little 2 LED flasher diagram online and plugged it into Yenka and whaddya know, it worked. I messed around with it a bit and came up with a 3 LED version that will flash alot slower (kinda pulse with dimming on and off), and the diagram looks like this:

r2-circuit1.jpg


So as you can see... I want to power everything using just a single 6V power supply. That way I can either use 4 AA batteries or a AC Adapter (I use an AC Adapter for testing because I can vary the voltage anyway I want). As you can see above, it's just a temporary circuit design to test the concept. In it I've got 3 red LEDs (I will be able to change out the LED colors later for the various colors I will need for the dome). I got out my old breadboard circuit tester and began wiring up the test circuit. And whaddya know, it works! Here's a video to prove it:

R2 Circuit Board Test 1

Now mind you, there are no IC chips to work with, just resisters, capacitors, and a couple of transisters. So, after testing and knowing this thing works I began to play around with the design and messing around with Yenka to get everything in proper place that I think I'll need and came up with this design:

r2-circuit2.jpg


Oh, in Yenka, you can import your own Sketchup designs as a "case" for your electronics.. how cool is that? As you can see, I plan on using a total of 9 LEDs. The 4 on the left hand side will be in 2 pairs (red/yellow and blue/white). These pairs pulse at a rate of once a second approximately and will drive the logic panel fiber optics. The 4 LEDs on the right are in 2 pairs (red/blue and red/green) and flash at a very slow rate (maybe once every 20 seconds) and will drive the mood indicators on the front and rear. The center LED is a bright white that will be used in the holoprojecter. It will remain on until the switch is turned off.

So now I've got my circuit design working and tested and all I need to do is get the large circuit put together and tested. Then put it into the dome. What do you all think? Lemme know... More to come later.
 
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

I don't know if you're a member of Starship Modeller, but there's a member there that has been making parts for the MPC Threepio and R2 models.

Here's a qoute of a reply he posted for another modeller, you may have interest in this...

Ziz said:
While we're on the subject, who'd be interested in these?

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8471/8357600666_0fdb0ee4ce_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8189/8357601094_8c93418beb_b.jpg

These are for the vintage MPC R2-D2 kit. I posted about them a couple of weeks ago but they're further along now. R2 and R4 are pretty much finished. R2 has had some fine tuning done to him - the top panels were rotated to the proper alignment, the front and rear logic displays were opened up and a few panel lines and other details were added/corrected around the perimeter. R5 is being designed a special way.

There are three versions of that head - R5 three eye, R5 two eye and R6 where the slots are in different spots (R6 is EU only - never showed up in the films.) I designed the master with an extra slot in it for R6. The plan is to cast the "multi-use" dome and then re-work the castings by filling in the un-needed slots and changing some other details to make new masters for the three individual designs. I also have R3 and R7 in the planning stages assuming I can work out how to make/where to get decent clear domes for R3.

The front eye and holoprojector will also be cast multiple times and include the appropriate quantity with each head. That last little round bit is a bonus piece - a restraining bolt. :8)

I also have a few 3PO parts on the list - 4-LOM, Death Star Droid and maybe CZ - but they're still in the planning stages; no construction yet.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

I'd love one of those R5 heads... would be awesome to turn the spare part R2 here into an R5! Would save alot of time scratch building it too! :)
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Finally finished the circuit design today for the entire lighting setup. I decided to go for 3 leds each for the logic panels. This will make a much more random looking light display as they pulse from one color to the next. All in all, it looks as if I'm going to be using 11 LEDs, 5 capacitors, 5 transistors and a whopping 16 resisters. Major pain in the butt to get them all synced up. The front mood light will be red/blue and the back will be red/green. I made this image big so it prints up neatly. Since i don't want to break the forum, I'm just going to attach the image file for anyone that wishes to use it.

After going back thru this, I realize I haven't shown what I'm trying to achieve here. Here's the photo that I'm going try and replicate in this:


r2-refphoto.jpg



While doing all this wiring/designing I've been thinking about a few things to do to the dome. I think I'm going to use my Magic Sculpt to create two little holders for the mood lights. This way I'll be able to keep them the same distance apart and allow for a more even lighting because I'll be able to paint the holder silver for maximum light reflection (or use a little of my silver leaf in a bowl shape). Not sure yet.

Another thing I was thinking of doing was actually separate each individual fiber strand on the rear logic panel and try to form a word in one color. Kinda difficult to do with a 4 grid high panel. But I think I may be able to at least attempt to spell my last name in it. It shouldn't detract from the overall look of the panel and will add a little bit of a personal touch to it when it's done. I dunno... what do you all think?
 
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Well... am working on the breadboard of the testing circuit today. Keep having to rearrange the components to figure out how to get things set up. Major pain in the butt... hopefully today I'll have something to show in a working light circuit.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Been having trouble getting the circuit to work... does anyone have any circuitry experience to give me a hand here?
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Simply Awesome. You are spending the time and pondering just like we do building 1:1 R2's. Totally cool.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

This may be a little guy... but he's gonna have the heart of the big boys! :) Wanna make sure I make the R2 Builders out there proud!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

I've spent the past few days racking my brain and testing my patience trying to get this circuit working and almost have it. Here's a photo of the breadboard with the circuit on it:


r2-ciralmost.jpg



It's still not finished and I gotta get the flashing rates fixed. Having trouble getting the second set of 3 lit at all. Don't know why. Here's a short vid of what it actually looks like when I run power to the circuit:


R2 Circuit Test 2 - YouTube


I've talked to a couple of people about this and hoping they may be able to shed some light into why this isn't working for me the way I want. Hope to hear back from them soon. Its getting there slowly!
 
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

MonsieurTox said:
I think you must sand the dome because you need to remove those awful raised lips all around the panel apertures which are not accurate!

Just to letcha know, I've got all those little raised panel ridges off the dome... will probably paint it tomorrow and then begin assembling the dome at least to show some progress. Just gotta find my airbrush... I got it around here somewhere! LOL
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Just to letcha know, I've got all those little raised panel ridges off the dome... will probably paint it tomorrow and then begin assembling the dome at least to show some progress. Just gotta find my airbrush... I got it around here somewhere! LOL
Since you're doing all of this work to accurize the kit, before you paint the dome you might want to remove and rotate the upper section (with the six blue panels) so that one of the crossmembers is centered over R2's "eye" rather than one of the panels. Since a picture is worth 1,000 words:

R2-D2_Comparison.jpg
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Since you're doing all of this work to accurize the kit, before you paint the dome you might want to remove and rotate the upper section (with the six blue panels) so that one of the crossmembers is centered over R2's "eye" rather than one of the panels. Since a picture is worth 1,000 words:

R2-D2_Comparison.jpg

DUDE! Nice catch! I would have never noticed that until it was too late! Good thing I haven't done the painting yet! So many things left to do on this... Keep finding other things I've missed. The more I find the longer this sucker is gonna take to build but I hope its worth it!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

this is awesome! I still have my old mpc kits finished from 1978 in a box somewhere... I should redo mine! great work!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

this is awesome! I still have my old mpc kits finished from 1978 in a box somewhere... I should redo mine! great work!

I honestly didn't think that R2 would have required this much attention to make him half as accurate. I thought foiling 3PO was a pain... I keep finding little things on R2 that I missed here and there. Will be glad when he's done.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

I know that the MPC kit can be a bit pricy if you are lucky to find one on ebay or etc, but an alternative is to get one of the Episode 1 R2D2 bubble bath figurines.....they pop up now and again....and for a lot cheaper, usually for under £5:

r2bubble.jpg

r2bubble2.jpg


I bought 3 of them at the time in Tesco...2 of them in a bargain basket with missing heads, my plan was to make alternate R2 variants for them.....never really got off the ground.

I bought another with a head (pictured above) from ebay

The original 1st one is in bits:
r2bubble3.jpg

r2bubble4.jpg


I might get back to it someday....
J
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

That looks awesome... is it as big as the Kit model? Looks like about the same size but it's hard to tell without anything for scale. i've never seen one of these before... I betcha it's only available overseas! :) Lucky duck!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Today while waiting to hear back from some people, I decided to do the panel washing on the body.

r2-bodywash.jpg


Didn't come out too bad, but as I was working, I had an idea for fixing the shoulder joints. I went back and looked at the real joints and then looked at the one that comes on the kit. Doesn't look anything like it and isn't good at all.

r2-realjoint.jpg

r2-kitjoint.jpg


Now I know I can't get in there and sand out the detail without doing some heavy damage and I really don't want to drill out the whole section so I started digging thru my toolbox and found an old marker I had. The end fit perfectly in the joint hole and was hollow in the end, just right for a press mold.

r2-marker.jpg


So I took some of my epoxy putty, and filled the end of the hole. Using the marker cap (which had a perfect indention in it) and a flat piece of styrene, I began to form the details of the joint in reverse and let it dry and harden completely. This is what I came up with.

r2-pressmold.jpg


Now I'm ready, so I took some putty rolled it into a ball and stuck it into the hole. Not alot, just enough to make the impression. Then taking my new press mold negative, I pressed it into the hole over the putty pressing it in as deep and hard as I could to make sure it filled all the nooks and crannys of the mold.

r2-jointputty.jpg

r2-pressing.jpg



When I removed the mold, it came out looking pretty darn good. I'm sure when it's trimmed and painted it should look pretty good. Its not perfect, but looks alot better then that cross that it comes with.

r2-jointpre.jpg


More to come soon... lemme know what you think.
 
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

In going over my reference pics (of which I gotta give a shoutout to and I love the R2 Builders club, they've got the best photos of the real screen used R2's on the web. You can find all the reference pics, and there are hundreds of pics, I've used in my construction here ILM's Uber R2-D2 Reference Photos - Via R2 Builders Club) I noticed a couple more things I'm gonna have to change. The first being the front eye box. The kit isn't too bad and should be pretty easy to fix with a couple of pieces of thin styrene on the bottom and cutting a notch out of the top right corner.

r2-realeyebox.jpg

r2-kiteyebox.jpg


The second being the front foot. The rear foot cowling actually look pretty good. Very much in detail to the original, but the front foot is completely devoid of any detail whatsoever. I'll have to add the square panel and the top detail raised piece. The one thing I hate doing is scribing and it also looks as if I'll have to scribe that line all around the edge with rounded corners and everything. Not looking forward to that at all. I've never been very good at scribing... if anyone has any tips or tricks they can share, please feel free.

r2-reallegs.jpg

r2-kitlegs.jpg


Another thing my friend Zombie_61 pointed out that I never really noticed is the upper dome panels. He was even kind enough to provide a picture as a reference. As you can see in the kit, the top panels are completely off by about 15 degrees, so, I'm gonna have to cut those out and reposition them or use some putty to make new ones in the proper position. Not quite sure how I'm gonna do that yet... but I'm sure I'll be able to come up with something! :)

r2-domecomp.jpg
 
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Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber build - Pic Heavy

Today I finished detailing the eyebox. I cut out a small notch in the upper right hand corner of the box and then cut a piece of styrene to a shape that resembles the bottom section of the box.

r2-eyebox1.jpg

r2-eyebox2.jpg


I glued it into place and painted it. Came out looking pretty good.

r2-eyebox3.jpg


Next I spent the rest of the day trying to figure out a consistent way of scribing the panel lines. I knew using a hobby knife wouldn't work. So after looking online for scribers I decided to try making my own scriber. First I took a piece of aluminuim sheet and cut out what looked like a good shape.

r2-scribev1.jpg


After filing it down and sharpening it a bit, it didn't work. The metal was too soft.

r2-scribev1-2.jpg


So, I took a piece of clothes hanger wire and pounded the end of it flat with a hammer. Then using my dremal, I shaped the end into a sharp tip about 1mm wide. Seems to work alot better, but still not quite right.

r2-scribev2.jpg


Seems to get hung up alot and can't have that when scribing. Here you can see a test scribing on the foot cowling. The top scribed line is that of the first failed tool. The bottom line (just above the half moon) is the improved wire tool. Still not quite right.

r2-scribeexp.jpg


Anyone else have any better ideas? Oh... and did I mention... I HATE SCRIBING panel lines? LOL
 
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