AMT 1:537 model size

hberg32

New Member
Hi - could someone with access to an AMT 1:357 refit Enterprise model tell me what the diameter of the saucer section is? I'm noodling a crazy idea, namely cutting up an STL of the ship into pieces suitable for lighting and application of either the decal set for this model or one of the after market aztec decals/paint masks. However, the print bed for a Prusa MK3 is 25 x 21 cm (9.84 x 8.3 inches). I don't know if that's large enough to print the saucer in one piece. If not, this idea isn't going to work.

Thanks,
Henry
 
Some plastic lids with a sharper bevel are a tad wider than the upper saucer. Had I time or money---I would have liked to have made an Ariel saucer out of one.
 
Hi - could someone with access to an AMT 1:357 refit Enterprise model tell me what the diameter of the saucer section is? I'm noodling a crazy idea, namely cutting up an STL of the ship into pieces suitable for lighting and application of either the decal set for this model or one of the after market aztec decals/paint masks. However, the print bed for a Prusa MK3 is 25 x 21 cm (9.84 x 8.3 inches). I don't know if that's large enough to print the saucer in one piece. If not, this idea isn't going to work.

Thanks,
Henry
I got ,ine down and measured it for you: 10 and 3/8 inches is what I got.
 
Thanks for checking. Definitely exceeds the size of the Prusa I3 print bed. Maybe I'll try at the 1:1000 scale. Why not just buy the Polar Lights model? Well, I'm blown away by the strength of PETG. On a lark I printed out a palm-of-the-hand sized Babylon 5 Shadow Cruiser to test with Black 2.0 paint. I assumed it would never print or that the arms would snap right off but it turns out I can twang them like guitar strings and they hold just fine. I've printed a ~8 inch solid refit enterprise and I can hold it by the rear of one nacelle, swing it around fairly vigorously, and the teeny tiny connection of the pylon base to the secondary hull doesn't break. The polystyrene 1:537 model I did as a kid got bumped one day and that was that, I could never align the nacelles or hold them on again.

It would be incredible if there were a way to get Polar Lights to do the model in nylon or PETG but I'm pretty sure it wears out the molds much, much faster.
 
Thanks for checking. Definitely exceeds the size of the Prusa I3 print bed. Maybe I'll try at the 1:1000 scale. Why not just buy the Polar Lights model? Well, I'm blown away by the strength of PETG. On a lark I printed out a palm-of-the-hand sized Babylon 5 Shadow Cruiser to test with Black 2.0 paint. I assumed it would never print or that the arms would snap right off but it turns out I can twang them like guitar strings and they hold just fine. I've printed a ~8 inch solid refit enterprise and I can hold it by the rear of one nacelle, swing it around fairly vigorously, and the teeny tiny connection of the pylon base to the secondary hull doesn't break. The polystyrene 1:537 model I did as a kid got bumped one day and that was that, I could never align the nacelles or hold them on again.

It would be incredible if there were a way to get Polar Lights to do the model in nylon or PETG but I'm pretty sure it wears out the molds much, much faster.
The reason the 1/537's pylons are so weak isn't the plastic, but the design of the pylon/ secondary hull interface. One thin tab holding all of that mass just isn't going to cut it; I had to replace the tab with brass rod and add Devcon plastic welder (and a ton of plastic) to the inside of the secondary hull for it to hold.

As for aligning it; the kit master is asymmetrical and hand carved. A ll you can do is to do your best and get it in the neighborhood, like I did with mine:
 

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