1/4 scale R/C Tachikoma build (Ghost in the Shell: Stand Alone Complex)

Yep. Was waiting on my electronics to show up before making any new posts (plus was being a bit lazy on the build...)

New printed parts being finished for the lower body: The center "post" and the leg joint covers:
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I'm using Testors Metalizer buffable Stainless Steel spraypaint on the leg joint covers. It's looking really good after
a light application of steel wool.

The lower body parts will not be permanently attached, they will interlock together and be held in place by the
center post cap, which is held in place with a single central threaded rod. This is to allow easy dissasembly
when I need to get into the guts to change wiring or fix things.
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For Sapporo's guts, we got in all kinds of new toys...

To start, power:
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I will be running one pair each of 11.1v(3s) and 7.4v(2s) LiPo batteries. The 11.1v batteries will provide power for the motors
and sound system. The 7.4v batteries will use the UBEC (top right hand side) regulate the voltage to a steady 5.0v,
and will be used to power the servos and video transmitter. The coil of 14 gauge wire will be used to run the power,
and I will be using XT60 connectors. The 4 circuit boards on the bottom right are the motor controllers (from Pololu)
which are capable of handling a steady 15 amps at up to 18 volts.


Locomotion:
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Here are the 4" VEX mecanum wheels, mounted on 37mm gearmotors (from Pololu again). The circuit board is a
pre-programmed mixer board for mecanum wheels. It takes three R/C inputs (forward/back, turn left/right,
strafe left/right) and outputs to the 4 leads for each motor/wheel.


Servos:
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The center four servos are "robotic" servos, which basically means they have a mounting point on both sides
of the servo instead of just one side. You still only get power/motion from one side, but it makes for a much more
stable joint. I still need to get 2 more of the larger regular servos that are at the top of the image.

FPV and audio:
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I will be using a 5.8gHz transmitter (center) to send back video to a small combo receiver/monitor/recorder (bottom right).
I am using a Mobius ActionCam (bottom left) which can do 1080p at 30 fps, or 720p at 60 or 30fps. The monitor will be
mounted to the carry handle on the R/C controller.

Audio output is using a 15watt stereo amp from Sure, with two 12 watt full range 2" driver speakers. I will be using a cel
phone for the two-way audio, so I'll just have the amp plugged into the headphone jack of the phone, along with a remote
microphone to get the audio back to me on the other end of the call.
 
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Color paint pass on the sensor "eyeballs" for the upper dome. I also have the swash plates and mounting supports that the sensor balls attach to allow for them to move completed, and will be mounting all of that over the weekend, along with the related servos and control cables.

Also, my "How to Build a Tachikoma 2.0" panel also got approved for Anime Expo. It is on Thursday, July 3rd, at 8:15pm in Room 501 (as of the current posted Programming Schedule at the time of this post...)
 
Got a lot of work done last night, both on external finishes (1200 grit color wet sanding makes things pretty...), some of the small detail parts printed/finished/installed, and getting internal mechanisms built and installed. The mounting brackets for the eye swash plates ended up being
a lot less fiddly than I expected it to be, which was a pleasant surprise.
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MMMMmmmm….. shiny parts, gooood.
I always liked the tachikomas better that anything else in Ghost in the Shell.
I am really looking forward to the drive testing.
 
It´s getting better and better. I love that comparison shot with the various finishes. It actually scares me a bit, because there are no excuses for sloppy finish work anymore, i.e. "need a pro shop, not the right tools etc." It looks like patience and ellbow grease are the keys to success, as usual ;)
 
That is a gorgeous finish. Too bad you can't find the voice actress and see if she'd record custom lines for it to play as it goes around lol
 
Quick photo update: The back abdomen in progress right now. I've been monopolizing both of the Makerspace's 3D printers
since midnight...

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The $ is for scale reference...

Amazing work.

Thanks!

That is AWESOME! You should put in a remote or motion activated voice, that would be so cute!

It actually will have a 2-way audio setup. I'm using a celphone in the Tachikoma for the sound input, and have plugged in thru the headphone
jack a remote microphone adapter, and a 15 watt Sure stereo audio board amp to power the two 12 watt 2" diameter full-range speakers.
It will also have FPV (First Person Video), but I ran out of time to get that working for Anime Expo. (I have all of the electronics, I just don't
have the time do the detail work to install it properly right now.)

It´s getting better and better. I love that comparison shot with the various finishes. It actually scares me a bit, because there are no excuses for sloppy finish work anymore, i.e. "need a pro shop, not the right tools etc." It looks like patience and ellbow grease are the key;)s to success, as usual

Thanks. I've had several people ask to use either that photo or the actual part to show what can be done with the finishing on a 3d printed
part. When I started the whole project my target level of finish was that of a decent auto body (not that I expected to get there). I'm actually
pleasantly surprised that I have gotten a lot closer to that target than I had expected.
 
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OK, Home Depot *ROCKS*...

I've been beating my head against a wall (luckily it's a fairly soft wall) about how to mount the motors at the end of the legs.
I'm using 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC pipe for the internal skeleton, but the existing motor mounts are metal plates with predrilled
holes. They line up perfectly with the motor, but leave something to be desired when you are trying to attach the motor to the
end of a piece of pipe...

Enter the plumbing section at Home Depot... I found a perfect solution with a 1" to 1/2" 90 degree elbow. The 1/2" end mates
up perfectly (naturally) with the 1/2 pipe, and the 1" end *barely* missed fiting over the round motor body. All I have to do is cut
a few slots into the 1" side to gain the extra wiggle room needed, slide the motor in, and apply a steel band clamp. VOILA,
instant motor mount, with the additional bonuses that it will hide the wires for power, and once sanded will paint up nicely
to give a smooth mechanical external appearance.
 
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Started putting together some of the animated details of the build. A set of images for the build of the eye mechanism is here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8829589@N06/sets/72157645574540515/

The mechanism is based off of the one presented in this video class from the Stan Winston School:
https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/tutorials/how-to-make-an-eye-mechanism-design-3d-printing-assembly
I highly recommend the various videos on their website, and if you keep an eye out you can often grab them at 1/2 price
when they have their online sale specials.


And here is the first video of the eyes moving. I had just put all of the mechanisms together at the time I made this video, so I'm moving the two servos manually. It is much smoother when I operate them by the R/C controls.
 
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I love the elegant simplicity of the mechanism! It keeps them all synced.

I'm still getting my head around the size of your build. It's huge! It'll be really impressive when it's rolling around.
 
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