1/2500 Enterprise-D

[Gregatron]

Okay, listen. I’m a TOS guy. Always have been. My prop and model builds are all TOS and TOS movie-era.

That being said, I do enjoy the pre-2009 spin-off shows to varying degrees, and am currently rewatching TNG. While I’ve been tempted by various Berman-era models over the years (the 1/1000 Defiant and Voyager sure do look purdy), I’ve never actually bought one.

So, for a change of pace, and because I am rewatching TNG, I finally decided to pick up the 1/2500 1701-D kit. Nothing too fancy, just a small and simple kit to put on my shelf. I specifically made sure to seek out the 2010 Round 2 reissue, because the more recent version’s Aztec decals are way too dark and blue, compared to the more subtle blue-green-gray of the 2010 Cadet Series release.

That being said, the decals are clearly based on the GENERATIONS repaint, as seen in the Christie’s auction photos of the six-foot studio model. While I would prefer the look of the ship as it appeared in the show proper, the GENERATIONS repaint is the version with the nicest and most complex detailing, and could therefore be argued as definitive. Unfortunately, aftermarket Aztec decals for this model seem scarce, so I’ll likely end up going with the stock decals. I’m also not intimately versed in the differences between versions, but have noticed a few. It may be impractical to try and backdate the kit to the TNG look without a source for accurate Aztecs.

I did, however, order the old PNT aftermarket decals for the kit, as well as VA Miniatures’ tinted resin nacelles. I don’t plan on lighting this kit, but the translucent Bussard collectors will look better than painting the stock, opaque ones.

I’m also wondering how hard it would be to modify the kit to feature a detachable saucer, using magnets. While VA Minatures also produced a resin “cobrahead” replacement part for the dorsal, they didn’t include the mating surface for the underside of the saucer. I’m wondering how hard it would be to 3D-model the appropriate parts, print them, and install strong magnets. Hmmm.

I’ve also already sanded off the inaccurate, raised deflector gridlines. While I could go to the trouble of attempting to scribe or draw them back in with pencil, they wouldn’t realistically be visible at this scale, and the Aztec decals will still give an impression that they’re actually there.


Anyway, I’m just looking for any tips, tricks, or useful sources from the experts. I haven’t noted any major inaccuracies, thus far, but I’m no expert on this design.

 

[Gregatron]

Decided to not go to the trouble of building in a saucer-separation feature, and to just have fun with this. I did, however, purchase the VA Miniatures clear resin nacelles, if for no other reason than making use of the clear red Bussard collectors. And I also picked up the PNT marking and phaser strip decals.

 

[Gregatron]

Gave the model a shot of filler primer. Still a few remaining bits of the gridlines to remove, and seams to work on. The nacelles are tricky, because the fit is poor, and the seam lines run right through the ribbed grilles. I also still have to perform the surgery to remove the stock Bussards and install the clear red ones.

Made a few other tweaks, too, like drilling out the torpedo tubes and adding a mounting hole for a spare Round 2 dome base, since the 2010 reissue of the kit did not include either.

I also started modeling some 3D replacement parts for the model. Specifically, the two cargo hatches on the underside of the saucer, and the one on the bottom of the secondary hull, since the kit depicts them with raised panel lines instead of scribed. Eventually, though, I thought better of it. Instead, I just sanded the detail off, and will pencil in the panel lines later on. Modeling and printing replacement parts would be too much time and effort for something so minor. I’m going simple with this build, not super-duper accurate. The aftermarket Bussards and decals should suffice.

Having fun with this. After many years of building mostly Constitutions and various others from the TOS era, this is a nice change of pace. Almost makes me want to pick up the 1/1400 TNG model and do it properly. Ah, well. Maybe a 1/2500 Defiant and Voyager once I rewatch these shows, too. Maybe. This model is my one concession to the post-TOS era, because I don’t have the shelf-space or inclination of go all-in on the Berman-era models.

 

[publiusr]

I always thought they got the lower saucer too flat. Maybe have some really hot water in the center of the disk supported by the bottom on a drinking glass with a depressed base?

 

[Gregatron]

Finally got some time to get back to this. A few more coats of primer, a little seam-filling. Got to a point where I felt it was time to apply the base color. Used a Gundam marker to trace, highlight, and fill in panel lines, structural areas, and details. Then I airbrushed on the base color, a custom mix of duck egg blue, medium gray, sky blue, and intermediate blue, mixed to match the blue-grayish GENERATIONS base color reasonably well. The color looks much more blue-gray in person, but more gray in photos, which sounds about right. More importantly, all that pre-shaded detail pops nicely from under the basecoat.

 

[Darph Bobo]

While not a full-on turd (I have fond memories of the original 3-piece set), your polishing has definitely elevated the 2500- D! Looking forward to seeing pic of decal application!

 

[Gregatron]

While not a full-on turd (I have fond memories of the original 3-piece set), your polishing has definitely elevated the 2500- D! Looking forward to seeing pic of decal application!

The overall shapes and proportions are quite good. It's the lack of fine detailing and the raised gridlines that drag it down. With some detail painting and the extensive Round 2 wallpaper decals, I'm sure it'll turn out well.

 

[publiusr]

Underneath the fantail…I saw a hatched port-to-starboard line between the nacelles.

Sever-point?

 

[Gregatron]

Finishing up paintwork. The illuminated areas (nacelle grilles, deflector dish) are tricky, since simulating them with paint will never be as effective as actual lighting. For the grilles, I’ve applied a shade of light blue, then drybrushed white over the “brighter”, center areas, then a light drybrushing of a very light blue over that. The result is a light inner core which feathers out into a darker blue at the edges.

Meanwhile, the dish has been a real pain. The dish housing on the studio model was painted the same yellow-orange color as the louvres behind the Bussard collectors, but that color was mostly washed out by the blue lighting of the illuminated dish. To simulate this, the orange color was applied, then a light blue airbrushed over it (mostly toward the center), then lightly drybrushed at the outer edge. The result is a slightly orange-greenish look around the outer edge of the housing which approximates the look of the real model.

 

[Gregatron]

Spent the past few hours in decal purgatory. The 2010-era kit decals were a bit brittle. Had a few breaks and tricky bits, but no major disasters. As noted, I'm doing this one for fun, and not sweating over every last detail, unlike with my TOS models. Just a nice little display piece. A model like this just needs to survive the three-foot glance-test.

Once the decals dry, she'll get another clearcoat, then the next round of decals (the livery, phasers, and various other PNT extras).

 

[pengbuzz]

Spent the past few hours in decal purgatory. The 2010-era kit decals were a bit brittle. Had a few breaks and tricky bits, but no major disasters. As noted, I'm doing this one for fun, and not sweating over every last detail, unlike with my TOS models. Just a nice little display piece. A model like this just needs to survive the three-foot glance-test.

Once the decals dry, she'll get another clearcoat, then the next round of decals (the livery, phasers, and various other PNT extras).



View attachment 1681936

Looks liek you did a pretty good job with the wallpaper decals; I don't see anything egregiously wrong here!

 

[Gregatron]

Looks liek you did a pretty good job with the wallpaper decals; I don't see anything egregiously wrong here!

If I was being more particular, I probably would have given them a coat of liquid decal film. As it is, I just went for it. Not the best-fitting decals, either, particularly on curvy areas like the secondary hull and nacelles.

Of course, a little model like this doesn't warrant my usual high attention to detail and precision. If it were the 1/1400 model, that would be different. This one passes the three-foot test, which works for me.

 

[Gregatron]

Y’know, I’ve always had pretty good luck with Round 2 decals, despite hearing some horror stories. Gotta say that I did not have a good time with this batch. In addition to the breaks and other difficulties, an examination of the dried decals now reveals a lot of silvering. And I almost never have silvering, since Pledge Floor Care provides a great glosscoat. I can only assume that the decals themselves are somehow to blame.

And, not unexpectedly, the Aztecs are very intense and prominent. Ordinarily, I’d just dull them down with a light misting of the base paint color, but so many details (windows, etc.) are baked into the Aztecs that masking them would be impossible.

Ah, well. This is just for fun, after all. Not the end of the world.




(…TOS is still the best, after all.)

 

[Inquisitor Peregrinus]

I always thought they got the lower saucer too flat.

Depends on what one is going for. As Probert originally designed it and ILM built it? Is good. As Jein later re-interpreted it for season 3? His is way chonkier.

Finishing up paintwork. The illuminated areas (nacelle grilles, deflector dish) are tricky, since simulating them with paint will never be as effective as actual lighting. For the grilles, I’ve applied a shade of light blue, then drybrushed white over the “brighter”, center areas, then a light drybrushing of a very light blue over that. The result is a light inner core which feathers out into a darker blue at the edges.

Holy hell that looks good. About the only step up from that I'd suggest (though not for this one) would be using fluorescent paints/inks for the engines and lights and deflector, then mounting true blacklights among the lighting for your models, to help make those illuminated parts pop.

I'm going to use your technique on my main timeline. I'm doing a few balls-to-the-walls superdetailed and illuminated models, but my "History of Human Spaceflight" collection has too many solid castings and 3D printed pieces to consistently light engines and windows, so I'm going the simulated route. I've seen several versions over the years -- some look obviously painted, some look pretty good... For all that you dismiss your work, it's among the better results I've seen.

If I was being more particular, I probably would have given them a coat of liquid decal film. As it is, I just went for it. Not the best-fitting decals, either, particularly on curvy areas like the secondary hull and nacelles.

If this were one you were wanting to take more care with, I'd've suggested separating the hull-plating decals into wedges and snugging each down in turn with MicroSol before moving on to the next. In that case, also, I'd suggest scribing the shield grid to help hide the decal edges.

(…TOS is still the best, after all.)

Moreso than what came later, I consider TOS and TNG a diptych. TNG makes less sense without the original as context, and the original leaves off without an ending and leaves one wanting to know where things go from there -- series or movies. The series just ends, because they were expecting another renewal. TUC ends with Kirk talking about how the Enterprise will be passed along to a new generation. Generations shows us a new Enterprise being launched... Lots of open endings, there, if one doesn't follow along with TNG.

Being an absolute starship-design nerd, I can appreciate -- more than I think people like Nilo Rodis or Doug Drexler or John Eaves internalized -- what Matt Jefferies was thinking and doing, and what Andy Probert (and, later, Rick Sternbach with Voyager) did with that to carry it forward. As pretty as the movie refit is, I love the continuity between the TOS ship and the -D. Same slightly greenish cool gray for a main hull color, same sensibility of design and the rationale behind it. So much of the TNG ship never got seen except in Andy's concept art and the C&D'ed Enterprise-D VR tour -- the main medical complex (not just the acute-care section Crusher oversaw directly), the main arboretum and galleria (think hanging gardens of Babylon meet the Glendale Galleria or Mall of America), the main shuttlebay complex, his original design for the saucer rim lounges (the rim being one deck thick, not two)...

I've been following the work over on the TrekBBS of the guy who figured out the TOS and TMP ships need to be ~15% bigger to accommodate the interiors we know they have (Jefferies' 947' length was for the ship designed for "The Cage", when the crew was less than half the size it ended up being in the series proper). FJ's blueprints and all the other ones later have shoehorned the ship into that official length that doesn't work. The guy who started that thread has been working to put the interiors we saw into the volume the ship has to have, and slowly connecting those dots to create an interior. It's exciting and lets the ship feel less cramped than the official stuff always made it feel, to me. Too many of the official blueprints leave out things we saw in the show, or change them so much to fit a reduced vertical allowance they no longer evoke recognition.

These ships are the most exciting when you can get in close and get the sense of them as a physical place that you could be inside of if you could shrink yourself down enough. That's what I'm going for with my superdetailed stuff. In some cases, I have to correct some shortcuts or oversights on the parts of those who created the things that break the illusion. I am not honoring with such large-scale effort any of those that work "all right", but lack the spark that bump things like a corrected Enterprise or Millennium Falcon to that higher level of reality and credibility.

Also, it's not worth it at this scale for a model that's just a casual thing, but both this and the 1:1400 Enterprise-D are missing the inset bank of windows just in front of the Captain's gig, inside the ring of the lower sensor array. There are aftermarket parts to drop into cutouts in the larger model, but for this one, you'd have to scratch-build it, and it's just not worth it, especially with how much weight that would add to the saucer, which is already cantilevered over the center of mass.

 

[Gregatron]

Spent several more hours in decal purgatory, yesterday. After giving the decals and solvent overnight to dry, I sealed them in with a glosscoat, then lightly penciled in the cargo bay door lines on the lower saucer and the underside of the secondary hull, since I’d sanded off the kit’s raised ribs, early on.

Just applied come dullcoat. I’ll give it overnight to dry, then snap a few photos. Calling this one done! Fortunately, the extensive amount of detail hides a multitude of sins. The model passes the three-foot rule, and that’s all I need.

 

[Gregatron]

Here we go.

 

[publiusr]

Wow.

 

[modelerdave]

Fantastic.

 

[Darph Bobo]

Absolutely outstanding!