Okay, listen. I’m a TOS guy. Always have been. My prop and model builds are all TOS and TOS movie-era.
That being said, I do enjoy the pre-2009 spin-off shows to varying degrees, and am currently rewatching TNG. While I’ve been tempted by various Berman-era models over the years (the 1/1000 Defiant and Voyager sure do look purdy), I’ve never actually bought one.
So, for a change of pace, and because I am rewatching TNG, I finally decided to pick up the 1/2500 1701-D kit. Nothing too fancy, just a small and simple kit to put on my shelf. I specifically made sure to seek out the 2010 Round 2 reissue, because the more recent version’s Aztec decals are way too dark and blue, compared to the more subtle blue-green-gray of the 2010 Cadet Series release.
That being said, the decals are clearly based on the GENERATIONS repaint, as seen in the Christie’s auction photos of the six-foot studio model. While I would prefer the look of the ship as it appeared in the show proper, the GENERATIONS repaint is the version with the nicest and most complex detailing, and could therefore be argued as definitive. Unfortunately, aftermarket Aztec decals for this model seem scarce, so I’ll likely end up going with the stock decals. I’m also not intimately versed in the differences between versions, but have noticed a few. It may be impractical to try and backdate the kit to the TNG look without a source for accurate Aztecs.
I did, however, order the old PNT aftermarket decals for the kit, as well as VA Miniatures’ tinted resin nacelles. I don’t plan on lighting this kit, but the translucent Bussard collectors will look better than painting the stock, opaque ones.
I’m also wondering how hard it would be to modify the kit to feature a detachable saucer, using magnets. While VA Minatures also produced a resin “cobrahead” replacement part for the dorsal, they didn’t include the mating surface for the underside of the saucer. I’m wondering how hard it would be to 3D-model the appropriate parts, print them, and install strong magnets. Hmmm.
I’ve also already sanded off the inaccurate, raised deflector gridlines. While I could go to the trouble of attempting to scribe or draw them back in with pencil, they wouldn’t realistically be visible at this scale, and the Aztec decals will still give an impression that they’re actually there.
Anyway, I’m just looking for any tips, tricks, or useful sources from the experts. I haven’t noted any major inaccuracies, thus far, but I’m no expert on this design.
That being said, I do enjoy the pre-2009 spin-off shows to varying degrees, and am currently rewatching TNG. While I’ve been tempted by various Berman-era models over the years (the 1/1000 Defiant and Voyager sure do look purdy), I’ve never actually bought one.
So, for a change of pace, and because I am rewatching TNG, I finally decided to pick up the 1/2500 1701-D kit. Nothing too fancy, just a small and simple kit to put on my shelf. I specifically made sure to seek out the 2010 Round 2 reissue, because the more recent version’s Aztec decals are way too dark and blue, compared to the more subtle blue-green-gray of the 2010 Cadet Series release.
That being said, the decals are clearly based on the GENERATIONS repaint, as seen in the Christie’s auction photos of the six-foot studio model. While I would prefer the look of the ship as it appeared in the show proper, the GENERATIONS repaint is the version with the nicest and most complex detailing, and could therefore be argued as definitive. Unfortunately, aftermarket Aztec decals for this model seem scarce, so I’ll likely end up going with the stock decals. I’m also not intimately versed in the differences between versions, but have noticed a few. It may be impractical to try and backdate the kit to the TNG look without a source for accurate Aztecs.
I did, however, order the old PNT aftermarket decals for the kit, as well as VA Miniatures’ tinted resin nacelles. I don’t plan on lighting this kit, but the translucent Bussard collectors will look better than painting the stock, opaque ones.
I’m also wondering how hard it would be to modify the kit to feature a detachable saucer, using magnets. While VA Minatures also produced a resin “cobrahead” replacement part for the dorsal, they didn’t include the mating surface for the underside of the saucer. I’m wondering how hard it would be to 3D-model the appropriate parts, print them, and install strong magnets. Hmmm.
I’ve also already sanded off the inaccurate, raised deflector gridlines. While I could go to the trouble of attempting to scribe or draw them back in with pencil, they wouldn’t realistically be visible at this scale, and the Aztec decals will still give an impression that they’re actually there.
Anyway, I’m just looking for any tips, tricks, or useful sources from the experts. I haven’t noted any major inaccuracies, thus far, but I’m no expert on this design.