Weeping resin

PHArchivist · Dec 25, 2006

I know this has been discussed time and again (I searched te archived threads)...

But have we determined a single best cure for weeping resin?

A "silver bullet" cure...?

A "Best" primer or other sealing agent?

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In case this thread gets archived (as it should), here are the suggestions thus far:

baking the piece for a long time at the lowest setting. This will usually dry out a lot of the resin. Unfortunately, this doesn't always work 100% of the time.

Sometimes to fix it means to pitch it and get another

try using a heat gun or hairdryer to try and get it to heat cure. ...what about one of those aerosol drying accelerators for superglue and fake nails? Don't really know if they'll be compatible.

only thing that has ever worked for me was to use babypowder on the part, but only if the part had a small amount of weeping. I would apply a small amount of babypowder to the part, let it wick out some of the material, clean it, repeat a few times if needed.

you gotta pretty much throw it out. In all of my experience, I've never seen something stop weeping. ...basically, once the reaction starts, it doesn't stop.

I've always heard that reheating it at low temp for a long period of time will cure the resin.

If it is a hard to replace piece, like a rare kit, throwing it away may not be an option. What I would suggest in this case (if it's a fairly thick piece) is drilling a small hole starting where the piece is weeping from, then using talcum or silica to draw out excess moisture. After you've slowed or stopped the weeping, fill the hole with some 2 part epoxy (5 or 10 minute). I've also wondered if putting the piece in a pressure pot would draw out all the moisture and solve the problem.

remember reading something about soaking the piece in either acetone or mineral spirits for awhile then try painting it. If that doesn't work you may need to grind out the bad part and fill it.
taking a mold from the piece and making another "stable" cast?

I once tried tamiya (mettalic) paints on a weeping part and it stopped it altogether.

brushing the part with a thin barrier of super glue and then zapping it with kicker.

Funky · Dec 25, 2006

Ah, yes, the old weeping resin issue. I've looked high and low for a solution. I'm not aware of a magical solution other than baking the piece for a long time at the lowest setting. This will usually dry out a lot of the resin. Unfortunately, this doesn't always work 100% of the time. :unsure

Lynn TXP 0369 · Dec 25, 2006

Sometimes to fix it means to pitch it and get another....

Lynn

Raffles · Dec 25, 2006

You could try using a heat gun or hairdryer to try and get it to heat cure. Alternatively what about one of those aerosol drying accelerators for superglue and fake nails? Don't really know if they'll be compatible.

mslz22 · Dec 25, 2006

The only thing that has ever worked for me was to use babypowder on the part, but only if the part had a small amount of weeping. I would apply a small amount of babypowder to the part, let it wick out some of the material, clean it, repeat a few times if needed. I would not sell a part that was weeping, but it has worked for me when i got a kit that had some weeping.

MattMunson · Dec 25, 2006

Yeah, you gotta pretty much throw it out. In all of my experience, I've never seen something stop weeping. I don't know the chemistry behind it, but basically, once the reaction starts, it doesn't stop. So no matter what you do, it will continue to weep.

now, it might weep so little that it won't bother your paint job, but if the part is replaceable, I'd say that's your best option.

Gigatron · Dec 25, 2006

I've always heard that reheating it at low temp for a long period of time will cure the resin. But my feeling is that weeping is caused by either poorly mixed resin (i.e. not combined properly) or combined in incorrect ratios (i.e. not enough kicker).

But I do have some personal theories that I always assumed would work, but never had to try them out. If it is a hard to replace piece, like a rare kit, throwing it away may not be an option. What I would suggest in this case (if it's a fairly thick piece) is drilling a small hole starting where the piece is weeping from, then using talcum or silica to draw out excess moisture. After you've slowed or stopped the weeping, fill the hole with some 2 part epoxy (5 or 10 minute). I've also wondered if putting the piece in a pressure pot would draw out all the moisture and solve the problem.

As a last resort (if the were a rare piece), I would recast the single part. I know this is looked down on, but I believe this is an instance where an exception should be made. As long as you don't go offering copies of the piece for sale, you should be ok.

-Fred

PHArchivist · Dec 25, 2006

Good info/posts, one and all.... But fits my recollection on the topic -- no "silver bullet"... :unsure

Still... Some good ideas to try.

Ruffkintoy · Dec 25, 2006

I remember reading something about soaking the piece in either acetone or mineral spirits for awhile then try painting it. If that doesn't work you may need to grind out the bad part and fill it.

GeneralMayhem · Dec 25, 2006

have you reconsidered simply taking a mold from the piece and making another "stable" cast?

Hadleys Hope · Dec 25, 2006

Yeah Leeching can be a pain. I have done all of the above and just found that there is usually a chemical reaction happening somewhere. Whether it is the paint/primer you are using or the cup you are mixing with or perhaps the mixing stick itself there is a chemical reaction somewhere in your mix. Always make sure to mix well and use a quality resin. Sometimes fillers can help, or warming your material and molds before you begin. Good luck.

Paul

Sidewinder · Dec 26, 2006

I once tried tamiya (mettalic) paints on a weeping part and it stopped it altogether.

SAS

GuntahKela · Dec 26, 2006

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Gigatron @ Dec 26 2006, 03:06 AM) [snapback]1384648[/snapback]</div>

But my feeling is that weeping is caused by either poorly mixed resin (i.e. not combined properly) or combined in incorrect ratios (i.e. not enough kicker).
[/b]

Yeah, that's pretty much how I see it. I usually wait for the weeping to stop on its own before drilling it out and refilling it back to normal.

EchoLeader · Dec 26, 2006

Though there's no stopping leechy resin, the way I've delt with this problem is by brushing the part with a thin barrier of super glue and then zapping it with kicker. This has actually sealed the part and worked for me to where I've been able to give the part a primer coat that has stuck and then I've been able to paint.

Lynn TXP 0369 · Dec 26, 2006

I have tried this as well, only to have the leeching go and creep to the edge of the super glue and leech under it and ruining the paint anyway.
If I coated the whole part completey it actually lifted the super glue.

It for the most part is a no win situation.

Lynn

PHArchivist · Dec 26, 2006

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(GeneralMayhem @ Dec 26 2006, 05:22 AM) [snapback]1384702[/snapback]</div>

have you reconsidered simply taking a mold from the piece and making another "stable" cast?
[/b]

Thought about it... But one of the pieces is a shell-type piece that is beond my meager molding skills...

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hadleys Hope @ Dec 26 2006, 07:03 AM) [snapback]1384724[/snapback]</div>

I have done all of the above and just found that there is usually a chemical reaction happening somewhere. Whether it is the paint/primer you are using or the cup you are mixing with or perhaps the mixing stick itself there is a chemical reaction somewhere in your mix. Always make sure to mix well and use a quality resin. Sometimes fillers can help, or warming your material and molds before you begin.

[/b]

Thanks Paul... In this case its a purchased item... Not one I mixed myself. But good tips nonetheless...

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Sidewinder @ Dec 26 2006, 02:17 PM) [snapback]1384764[/snapback]</div>

I once tried tamiya (mettalic) paints on a weeping part and it stopped it altogether.

[/b]

Hmmmm... May have to try that.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(EchoLeader @ Dec 26 2006, 03:52 PM) [snapback]1384792[/snapback]</div>

Though there's no stopping leechy resin, the way I've delt with this problem is by brushing the part with a thin barrier of super glue and then zapping it with kicker. This has actually sealed the part and worked for me to where I've been able to give the part a primer coat that has stuck and then I've been able to paint.
[/b]

Encouraging...

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lynn TXP 0369 @ Dec 26 2006, 04:56 PM) [snapback]1384803[/snapback]</div>

I have tried this as well, only to have the leeching go and creep to the edge of the super glue and leech under it and ruining the paint anyway.
If I coated the whole part completey it actually lifted the super glue.

It for the most part is a no win situation.

[/b]

Discouraging...

Beagle Bill · Dec 26, 2006

I'd try getting a replacement part from the individual you got it from. If you got it second hand, or it is out of production, that may not be an option though.

If the kit's still in production, the maker should exchange the part or parts. I've had a couple of weepy pieces, and usually the dealer will make it good, unless he's a jerk or it's some fly by night dealer who doesn't care. I've heated a few pieces at low temp, then washed them down with MEK or lacquer thinner, and had some success. But even if the piece is "clean" when you paint it, it can start weeping again if there's a temperature change, months, even years later. Good luck, hope you get this resolved. :thumbsup I think almost everyone who works with resin kits/props has had this situation before. :unsure

Bill

PHArchivist · Dec 26, 2006

Hit the first part with a primer. No special tricks -- just sanded the surface and sprayed with Plasti-kote primer. Drying now; will report tomorrow.

Clutch · Dec 26, 2006

If it's not a big area, I just dremel it out and patch. Cornstarch might also work. I painted a vinyl alien (my first) with enamel paint which gave it a tacky feeling. I put him in a big bag full of cornstarch like shake & bake and left him in there for a week. When he came out, he looked like a snowman, but when I dusted him off, he was bone dry and still is to this day.

Wakal · Dec 27, 2006

Bad mix, or mixed at too low of a temperature. I'd just ask the seller for another piece. Any reputable seller should set you up without any fuss

Alex

Weeping resin

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