Mark VI Pepakura Iron Man Build

Getting more work done...slowly. Been busy studying for final in JAVA , working two helmets and working around Thanksgiving and guests :wacko

Wanted to have the magnets connecting the bottom piece with the rest of the helmet totally surrounded with fiberglass/bondo so they couldn't pop out/break off. The magnets on my first helmet stick up out of the lip I made and it has always worried me that they might break off/come unglued. So I tucked the magnets tightly in the corners of the bottom piece on either side of the tab that sticks up. Well, I had to cut up the lip to remove them and put them up higher them because they were too close to the edge and I couldn't get the corresponding magnets where they needed to be on the main part of the helmet so they matched up with the ones on the bottom piece. So more fiberglass/bondo to remedy that. Also am putting the magnets on the front of the bottom piece where the tab I created extends into the cheek. On my original helmet, I had the magnets in a different spot and I didn't like them there either. Did a better job on helmets 2 & 3 as far as aligning everything. The faceplates on the two newer ones fit much better than my first one. Haven't put the screw details in the .95 scale yet, and am wondering if anyone actually uses the spots where the screw details on the sides of the faceplate are to actually hold the screws for their hinges.:confused It would make sense...my hinges on the first helmet are in about that spot and are Chicago screws which were fiberglassed into the inside. That was a real pain getting them aligned installing them that way. Wondering if it would make sense/be easier to actually have functioning screws there for the hinges. Made sure the sides of insides of both new helmets are as even as possible since I have issues on the first one I did where the hinges rub against the edges because I made the edges so thick that they protrude in and don't offer a flat surface for mounting.
 

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Warm enough yesterday to put on a couple of coats of red paint to cover up the bleeding from when I scored the detail lines in the chest and painted them black. Decided to try a paint pen this time to redo the black detail instead of using a brush. Came out super. Will definitely use the paint pen on the helmet to draw in the detail lines. Before going with the paint pen, I first tried a Sharpie, a Rub a Dub laundry pen and the paint pen on a piece of scrap pep and after the paint dried, I sprayed on a light glossy clear coat to see what all three would do. The paint pen worked best. The sharpie ran when I put on the clear coat, and though the rub a dub didn't run, the point wasn't fine enough for my liking. Still need to clear coat the chest and back.

Also, got the other magnets installed on the two helmets and am waiting for my Apoxie Sculpt to cure before I separate the pieces... I had to call 7 Harbor Freight stores before I found one that had the little 10 piece rare earth magnet packs. My husband picked them up on the way back from an out of town trip--yeah for a hubby who will help feed my obsession! Don't know why these were so hard to find:confused...maybe there are a bunch of other folks making Iron Man suits in the area!:lol
 

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Great idea with the paint pen.never thought of that. I will have to pick one up. Nice job!!!

Thanks. Trying to find easier ways to do this. Happened to have the paint pen in my stash of crafty stuff from doing projects with the kids and thought I'd give it a try...with a test piece first of course:p
 
Apoxie Sculpt is cured on the final helmet magnets, so I tried the .95 on for size now that it's clean on the inside (relatively speaking anyway). Maybe it's just me, but it still seems too bobble headed even though there is just enough clearance for my ears. (I can get one hand between the side of the helmet and my ear with the palm touching my ear). Granted on a smaller helmet, the ear insets could be partially cut out to to make room for my ears if the helmet was smaller like I did on the .90 version, but I think even a .925 helmet (which would split the dif between this one and the smallest one) would still look too big on. The smallest one (.90 scale) I couldn't even pull on far enough to touch my ears. First pic is the 1.0 scale I did first to see the difference.
 

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Nice job! From the builds I have seen, the washing or darkening of the detail lines in the armor really makes a difference. Just like it does when people paint miniatures (40k, etc.) using the same methods. It really makes things 'pop!'

Love the idea of the paint pen.
 
You know you live in a nerd nest when...

You get two big boxes from "Think Geek" with Christmas gifts for the whole family... AND when everyone else is running out buying milk and bread for the "Impending storm of doom"...you are frantically spraying clear coat on your Iron Man pieces before the weather gets too cold and nasty to do such things... Also detailed the lines on the codpiece and shoulder bells with the black paint pen.
 

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We're waiting on our Think Geek order too. ;)

I love how shiny and awesome everything looks! You're doing such an amazing job!
 
Shiny is the whole reason I went with a fiberglass build, too. I want that high gloss, polished look. Good job on achieving that! What paint are you using?

I'm using Duplicolor paints and rust-oleum enamel clear coat. These are my weapons of choice...Inferno Red Metallic, Sunburst Gold, Silver Frost, and Rust-Oleum Acrylic Enamel, crystal clear gloss
 

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Had to do one more helmet just to see...this one at .925. TIGHT! but I can get it on over my ears with some difficulty. A record for me. Start to this point--all bondo work done--3 days. I started this one on the 5th. Used cardboard in a few places. to inset the detail lines around the side of the helmet, to get the chin detail, the teeth, and to stiffen the bottom "U" shape, which has warped every other time I've built this helmet...I just took the parts of the eye pieces that make the in/outsides and the top/bottom shelves and scrapped the rest. Seems to have taken the resin/glass without warping. The cardboard along the side detail line definitely helped the lid keep its shape while I glassed it. Also, all the other helmets I've done 2 coats of resin on the outside and one on the inside. This time I reversed it. It kept the details sharper and resulted in less resin pooling in places, which meant less cleaning up afterwards. Did the ear pieces out of clipboards, and used a mongo hole saw I had, but I think the saw was a tad too small perhaps. What do you guys think?
 

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Geeking out on my birthday. Got the Think Geek Deluxe IM 3 Tony Stark shirt. Looks cool, but the arc reactor light isn't particularly bright. Also, got posters for all three movies framed. Yeah! And of course, I had to wear my new Star Trek PJs to bed.:lol
 

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Thanks. I think I have the sizing right finally. Pics of me wearing the .925. My head circumference is 22 and after reading a couple of posts, I found one that said the .95 scale was good for most people with a 22" circumference head. But it was just too big. The .925 seems to work. I did make the EarPods like boochieboy, using pressed mdf clipboards and though the angled part isn't quite right, I think they'll work. I actually used the EarPods sizing for the .95 helmet to do these in order to allow me to sand down evenly with the disc sander and still have a big enough pod. It also allows me to cut out the ear hole more to allow more of my ears in the holes.... I now have 10 hole saws of varying diameters as I searched for the right one to use for each size helmet I built:lol
 

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I appreciate your zeal in getting the right size figured out. I've put so much time into perfecting one helmet so far that if it turns out to not be the right size, I think I'll lose my will to live. I've remade other parts but the helmet has drained the most out of me, so I can't imagine having to make 4 of them. Great job!
 
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