This is my ANH Obi Wan prop replica.
It's made from the following parts:
Original 16-hole Derwent interconnector. It's not 100% prop accurate, but like the one lonepigeon had first found. My interconnector was found by Bob Jarrett of Classic Jets Fighter Museum in Australia (I have his permission to post his name). Bob DOES NOT have any more extra interconnectors, and the ones in his Meteor have 10-holes. I've considered having it machined to look more prop-like, but per Serafino's wisdom, because of the Inconel material it's made of, I'm leaving it as is for now. I personally don't believe the emitter is crimped to the No3 pineapple
. I think what is seen is actually blobs of solder (which I don't plan to add) around the inner ring of the interconnector. I think this also is why the neck of the original No3 is shiny. Steel wool was probably used to clean the brass much like a plumber would do with copper pipe before soldering.
The interconnector is attached to the No.3 using two stainless steel washers sandwiching a rubber washer ala the drum-sander principle. When everything is tightened the washers smash the rubber inside the interconnector and it will not come off!
BTW- This flat type interconnector clamped together with a prop correct beveled interconnector make up a balance pipe assembly.
Original No.3 Mk.1. Once again, not exactly prop accurate, but good enough for me! I got this from Lordsandy through the RPF junkyard . I had to strip the original mustard yellow coating and apply some gun bluing. Also darkened one end of the neck and polished the other.
Original Graflex clamp. Chrome plated brass unit from a 2-cell flash off of eBay. I do not intend to drill a hole in it to add a cotter pin .
Original Exactra-19 display bubbles. Also off of eBay. Getting it to fit properly is one pain in the arse :confused . I did take several photos that show how it was removed and modified.
Original and real Motorola MA909 and MA205 transistors. Has correct "MA" nomenclature. I'm an electrical engineer, and I've specified transistors since 1980. There is not a semiconductor manufacture with a logo that could be an "N" followed with a subscript 2. After conferring with several other EEs, it was concluded that it has to be a Motorola "M" with the right leg removed. (The transistors on the original prop are heavily scratched and damaged). My 2 cents .
Home-made stainless steel spacers (washers). I personally like the two washer version.
Original ANM2 bearing/booster. This item was found for me by an MG collector who goes by the name nfacol on both eBay and biggerhammer.net. He DOES NOT have any more. Finding mine was a real fluke.
Not-so original but genuine Armitage-Shanks handwheel. Got this from RPF member kurtyboy. It's the 2-piece version and I snoozed when Sporak recently sold his original 4-piece version :cry . I drilled the handwheel and added the D-ring.
The whole thing is solidly put together using 3/8" threaded lamp tubing adapted down to a 10-32 threaded rod to fit through the smaller hole of the booster. I also used lamp hardware, washers, spacers, locknuts, and a nylon bumper and the transistors were hot-melt glued on. I fitted a polished aluminum stamping I had lying around inside the emitter.
My other saber, my first, is from Roman's Empire. It's my AFBB.
ATL Kenobi
It's made from the following parts:
Original 16-hole Derwent interconnector. It's not 100% prop accurate, but like the one lonepigeon had first found. My interconnector was found by Bob Jarrett of Classic Jets Fighter Museum in Australia (I have his permission to post his name). Bob DOES NOT have any more extra interconnectors, and the ones in his Meteor have 10-holes. I've considered having it machined to look more prop-like, but per Serafino's wisdom, because of the Inconel material it's made of, I'm leaving it as is for now. I personally don't believe the emitter is crimped to the No3 pineapple
. I think what is seen is actually blobs of solder (which I don't plan to add) around the inner ring of the interconnector. I think this also is why the neck of the original No3 is shiny. Steel wool was probably used to clean the brass much like a plumber would do with copper pipe before soldering. The interconnector is attached to the No.3 using two stainless steel washers sandwiching a rubber washer ala the drum-sander principle. When everything is tightened the washers smash the rubber inside the interconnector and it will not come off!
BTW- This flat type interconnector clamped together with a prop correct beveled interconnector make up a balance pipe assembly.
Original No.3 Mk.1. Once again, not exactly prop accurate, but good enough for me! I got this from Lordsandy through the RPF junkyard . I had to strip the original mustard yellow coating and apply some gun bluing. Also darkened one end of the neck and polished the other.
Original Graflex clamp. Chrome plated brass unit from a 2-cell flash off of eBay. I do not intend to drill a hole in it to add a cotter pin
.Original Exactra-19 display bubbles. Also off of eBay. Getting it to fit properly is one pain in the arse :confused . I did take several photos that show how it was removed and modified.
Original and real Motorola MA909 and MA205 transistors. Has correct "MA" nomenclature. I'm an electrical engineer, and I've specified transistors since 1980. There is not a semiconductor manufacture with a logo that could be an "N" followed with a subscript 2. After conferring with several other EEs, it was concluded that it has to be a Motorola "M" with the right leg removed. (The transistors on the original prop are heavily scratched and damaged). My 2 cents
.Home-made stainless steel spacers (washers). I personally like the two washer version.
Original ANM2 bearing/booster. This item was found for me by an MG collector who goes by the name nfacol on both eBay and biggerhammer.net. He DOES NOT have any more. Finding mine was a real fluke.
Not-so original but genuine Armitage-Shanks handwheel. Got this from RPF member kurtyboy. It's the 2-piece version and I snoozed when Sporak recently sold his original 4-piece version :cry . I drilled the handwheel and added the D-ring.
The whole thing is solidly put together using 3/8" threaded lamp tubing adapted down to a 10-32 threaded rod to fit through the smaller hole of the booster. I also used lamp hardware, washers, spacers, locknuts, and a nylon bumper and the transistors were hot-melt glued on. I fitted a polished aluminum stamping I had lying around inside the emitter.
My other saber, my first, is from Roman's Empire. It's my AFBB.
ATL Kenobi
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