Studio Scale Snowspeeder
- Thread starter REL
- Start date
tobiasrichter
Well-Known Member
Wow - that is BIG! Looks fantastic!
All I can say is...the same thing any Crowd would during something Amazing!
OOOOOOOOOOOO AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! :eek
OOOOOOOOOOOO AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! :eek
jockdeboer
Well-Known Member
Rel, can you explain the trick, so I can really screw it up when mine comes in?
Thanks man! Hopefully the pics Kurt Kuhn posted without my consent are useful to you, giggle.
I can't take all the decal credit - Gort funded it for his kit, and I outsourced it to a company that makes actual waterslide decals. I just did the graphics, to their spec. The clear layer that they put down makes the decal "separate" like the kind you find in "real" kits - tedious work to make that extra layered file, but WORTH IT!!!
The bottom looks just as good as the top! That's what she said!
I can't take all the decal credit - Gort funded it for his kit, and I outsourced it to a company that makes actual waterslide decals. I just did the graphics, to their spec. The clear layer that they put down makes the decal "separate" like the kind you find in "real" kits - tedious work to make that extra layered file, but WORTH IT!!!
The bottom looks just as good as the top! That's what she said!
Jestefarean
Sr Member
Amazing
vaderdarth
Master Member
niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice!
ave4uevoli
Sr Member
Hmm. I guess people can correct me if I"m wrong but I think that the lacquer thinner is used for the weathering all the little nicks and scrapes. After you apply a layer of paint (like a dark grey panel) You take a thin paint brush, dip it in thinner and dab the area you want a nick and the thinner will remove the paint in that little spot, It may even create some "damage" to the surrounding area of the spot making it look a little more natural.
Thinner can also be used to thin out paints so you can use it for weathering lighter panels with dirt. Dip the paint brush in the dark paint, then take the paint brush and swirl it around in a cap full of the thinner. You end up with a very liquidy "dirty" thinner that can be used to splotch all sorts of dirty goodness onto your model or into the panel lines.
It's really tough to do correctly because it's so watery. You really need to be precise and "control" where the liquid goes. It takes A LOT of patience and a lot of trial and error.
.....I think. :angel
Does anyone have Photos of the unassembled kit?
emailed you pictures.
Looks great Rich!
Steve
Looks great Rich!
Steve
vaderdarth
Master Member
shoot me pics too Steve. 
Here are the pics! posting a sign up thread over at the Junkyard... went through Nick's list and 85% decided the kit was something they didnt want any more. Ive got to sell 15 just to break even... were NOT there yet.
Heres the pics of the Speeder parts......
Rich has his Coke... I have Pepsi MAX!
Steve
Heres the pics of the Speeder parts......
Rich has his Coke... I have Pepsi MAX!
Steve
streetjudge79
Master Member
Got any close up photos of the pilot figures?
propologist
Sr Member
i bet if you threw in the Pepsi Max can that would seal it for some of the guys
3d-builder
Sr Member
That's to bad on the kits Steve, maybe if it was possible
to design the top and bottom hulls in fiberglass from the
start it would have been more cost efficient? As you would
have had the biggest parts in a cheaper and stronger medium.
Oh well water under the bridge now, best of luck with the next
15 they look very nice from what I can see in the pics.:thumbsup
to design the top and bottom hulls in fiberglass from the
start it would have been more cost efficient? As you would
have had the biggest parts in a cheaper and stronger medium.
Oh well water under the bridge now, best of luck with the next
15 they look very nice from what I can see in the pics.:thumbsup
I don't think fiberglass would have been any cheaper, the top and bottom hull are pretty light, it's the big molds that are $ on this one. The other thing about fiberglass was that if there was any uneven lay up where it the top or bottom gained thickness at all it would require some grinding in those areas, with the resin it's poured just at the same thickness as the pattern, it still requires some fitting but IMO a few passes with a file on resin goes much faster than working fiberglass.
It was a tough call for sure, because of the way the top and bottom parts converge and meet up with each other the ends are pretty thin and they need to be that way. I did a test shot of a top hull in a much more rigid resin, but the issue with that was being more rigid it was harder to "pull" the hole thing together, the slightly less rigid resin is easier to work, and once the support structures like the airbrake boxes etc are added it seems pretty sturdy. Over all the speeder is a tricky one to mold and cast for sure....
BTW, sorry to hijack Rich, the whole build looks fantastic and that dash is amazing...hope it's a fun build...
thanks
mike
It was a tough call for sure, because of the way the top and bottom parts converge and meet up with each other the ends are pretty thin and they need to be that way. I did a test shot of a top hull in a much more rigid resin, but the issue with that was being more rigid it was harder to "pull" the hole thing together, the slightly less rigid resin is easier to work, and once the support structures like the airbrake boxes etc are added it seems pretty sturdy. Over all the speeder is a tricky one to mold and cast for sure....
BTW, sorry to hijack Rich, the whole build looks fantastic and that dash is amazing...hope it's a fun build...
thanks
mike
SurfingDoc
Well-Known Member
For acrylic paints, you can do the same with rubbing alcohol. I use a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol for streaks and paneling and drops for scars/burns.
