Warehouse 13 - Claudia's (Farnsworth's) Farnsworth

image.jpg Claudia's Farnsworth in progress, just a little more to go. Must be ready for Saul and Eddie to see/autograph at Shore Leave this weekend.
 
It's probably already been mentioned somewhere in this thread, but to save you potential 'Farnsworth's Farnsworth' builders going cross-eyed from reading too many pages, the correct black ABS box to use a Richard Wheatley Malvern Fly Box 6" - Model # 8109 (Black). I've just ordered on here in the UK for £17.92 inc.P&P (that's roughly US$ 26.50).

I hope this helps.
 
I've just finished drawing the vector artwork from scratch, to scale as best I can (using comparisons of actual case dimensions and screen-caps) ready to etch the face-plate(s). Here it is:

farns-farns.jpg

Comments and suggestions are always welcome (before I go wasting brass). Meanwhile, I'm adapting readily available Ebay items, ready for the embellishments and working parts. Here's what I've done so far:


DSCN0734.JPG

The dial is a water-slide decal (taken from my vector artwork) onto 0.5mm tin sheet and the pointer made from the same material. The domed steel washers were easy enough to find and the grey rubber washer was sanded down to a dome just using a power drill and a nut/bolt as a mandrel. The tin disc was shaped using the same technique. Now to grind the knob down to proper proportions.....
 
Well, I've been busy this past couple of weeks producing the control surfaces (or face-plates if you prefer) As I don't have access to laser engravers and other fancy gadgets, I've gone for my usual approach of using photo-etched brass sheet. I used 0.4mm for the 'auxiliary' panel and 0.5mm for the main panel, because my double sided etch needs that extra bit of thickness. Here's my main stages:

View attachment 471463 1. Brass plates coated, U.V. exposed and developed using photo negatives produced from my full scale vector artwork.


View attachment 471468 2. Plates etched and ready for paint. At this stage I also soldered in the two brass rivets near the lens hole.

View attachment 471470 3. Undercoat and black gloss coat done. I've used cellulose automotive sprays this time, because they tend to be harder than 'project' paints.

View attachment 471473 4. Gold acrylic inlay done and ready to buff down, to remove the excess from the edges of the etch, and thin down the lines a bit.


This painting method was all a bit experimental for me, but I was using techniques and similar principles learned during my time in the printing industry.

I'll keep you all posted on the progress.
 
The flat mic/speaker mesh looks like it could actually be the top of a Sure SM57 which is flat. The SM58 is more spherical.
 
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