Tron Legacy Costume

Sounds simple enough.

My head is probably not the same size of your head. How does one create these cardboard mockups? I see cardboard mockups of Ironman, Predator, all kinds of stuff all over the place on RPF and it seems like there's some formula or program for making these? Hook me up with the cardboard mockup sweetness!

Also, it seems as though its not corrugated cardboard but card stock paper? I assume this because the models I've seen are white like card stock, instead of brown like cardboard.
 
They mostly use a program called pepakura to make a paper model.

I'm thinking of winging it. I'm thinking about using currogated cardboard and non currogated cardboard sheets to get the general idea.

Basically like this guy did: kaaskop's Gallery

I'll send you the plans once I figure them out.
 
THANK YOU - I should have known that sticky was the missing key I was looking for. I'm reading all about it now. How long do you think it will take you to figure out your plans?
 
So here's another problem/question:

It sounds as though they filmed the lighted costumes in low light and then amped up the costume light in post by turning up the contrast/luminescence/whatever.

Reading that made me think that trying to light the costumes beyond reflective tape (scotchlite) is probably futile. I was thinking about the End of Line Club and the costumed folks in there. If they were going through all the cost and expense of setting up Flynn's arcade and the club, and if they're going to put costumed programs in there, why not give them light-up costumes?

I'm thinking its because the results are disappointing - although, each costume cost thousands of dollars; that could have something to do with it. But it seems as though in moderate light the Elastolite won't show very well. Thoughts?
 
So I actually saw Flynn's son's costume and helmet up close. man that suit is crazy. The fabric portions (all the bend points) are silk screened hex pattern on an open weave for stretch. The rest of the costume is a sculpted and molded foam latex body that was glued to a rubber or fabric body suit. The helmet is a fiberglass sculpted piece that has been molded and cast in a clear/bluish tinted resin. The stuff looks cool, but i doubt anyone will ever be able to see all the crazy detail that went into it. The lighting was done in a combination of elements, but it boils down to recessed areas, that the lighting strips (a specially made EL fabric from what I heard) glue to, and then the wiring is glued underneath the foam latex, between that and the body suit. After seeing all this I realize I can make it in foam, but It's not going to look as cool as it could be, and yes, the lighting isn't as bright as it looks in the final picture. I say find some good EL lighting and glue it down to your suit, but then glue over it with something else so it will hold as you bend. You can power it with the battery hidden in the back disc holder, the one I saw is more then big enough for 5 nine volt batteries in there. I love what others are coming up with, I can't start on mine until later in the year, I'm jealous. Of course I should get my disc working first, then worry about the rest of the outfit.
 
Just a quick thought (as I've been watching this thread for a few weeks), what if you sewed EL Wiring over some reflective tape? Wouldn't that give off as much light as tape or paneling? It would be a bit easier and cheaper than panels or tape. I know it's not screen accurate, but as I said, just a thought.
 
Maybe it you also layered something translucent over the scotchlite and EL wire to diffuse the glow? Ehh... but that probably wouldn't work unless there was at least a small gap between the reflective tape, EL wire, and the translucent rubber stuff. Something that bulky probably wouldn't work for this kind of skin tight costume...
 
So I actually saw Flynn's son's costume and helmet up close. man that suit is crazy. The fabric portions (all the bend points) are silk screened hex pattern on an open weave for stretch. The rest of the costume is a sculpted and molded foam latex body that was glued to a rubber or fabric body suit. The helmet is a fiberglass sculpted piece that has been molded and cast in a clear/bluish tinted resin. The stuff looks cool, but i doubt anyone will ever be able to see all the crazy detail that went into it. The lighting was done in a combination of elements, but it boils down to recessed areas, that the lighting strips (a specially made EL fabric from what I heard) glue to, and then the wiring is glued underneath the foam latex, between that and the body suit. After seeing all this I realize I can make it in foam, but It's not going to look as cool as it could be, and yes, the lighting isn't as bright as it looks in the final picture. I say find some good EL lighting and glue it down to your suit, but then glue over it with something else so it will hold as you bend. You can power it with the battery hidden in the back disc holder, the one I saw is more then big enough for 5 nine volt batteries in there. I love what others are coming up with, I can't start on mine until later in the year, I'm jealous. Of course I should get my disc working first, then worry about the rest of the outfit.


Agreed!
When I first saw the suits in person, and personally inspected all the details and how the suits were made so that we could accurately replicate the movie suits in question..... I wanted to tear my hair out of my head. :lol

That said, I think we managed to incorporate a good if not a great portion of all the details shown...and considering our product is leather in nature, this really created a challenge like never before. We too had to make everything from scratch...even the Disks on the back of the jackets are 100% manufactured by us.
Killer suit designs....just killer!:thumbsup

David
 
I thought about screen printing the hex pattern but I didn't know how accurate that would be. Now I know that would work. I found a site once that could print any pattern you designed on any fabric you wanted. I'll find that site again and post it here. I chose Rinzler's suit because it has fewer lights.
 
I thought about screen printing the hex pattern but I didn't know how accurate that would be. Now I know that would work. I found a site once that could print any pattern you designed on any fabric you wanted. I'll find that site again and post it here. I chose Rinzler's suit because it has fewer lights.

If you locate the screen printing store can you please send me the link? I used a substitute for the hex print on my Quorra costume. I would like to get it screen printed then replace it on my suit. Would be excellent. Thank you!

~A
 
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So here's another problem/question:

It sounds as though they filmed the lighted costumes in low light and then amped up the costume light in post by turning up the contrast/luminescence/whatever.

Reading that made me think that trying to light the costumes beyond reflective tape (scotchlite) is probably futile. I was thinking about the End of Line Club and the costumed folks in there. If they were going through all the cost and expense of setting up Flynn's arcade and the club, and if they're going to put costumed programs in there, why not give them light-up costumes?

I'm thinking its because the results are disappointing - although, each costume cost thousands of dollars; that could have something to do with it. But it seems as though in moderate light the Elastolite won't show very well. Thoughts?


Exactly. That could be a perfect explanation why the programs at The End of the Line club at SDCC did not have actual lighting on their costumes. It would have cost thousands of dollars to replicate.

I went with 3M Scotchlite 8930 reflective fabric tape myself for my Quorra costume. For one no way do I have the funds for actual lighting and two I need my suit done in less than a week for Dragon Con. I am 85% finished. Even found perfect wedge boots like hers to work with. I am so happy about that.

Just go with Scotchlite everbody. Save yourself some money and the headache.

And trust me, I would never ever do this since I am big on my perfectionism replicating costumes. There are just some things(us poor ppl) can't do as the movies did ;).

~A
 
Hey Ranom not for anyone who is doing a Quorra suit (On a budget ;) ) I found these leggings at Walmart of all places, they are pretty thick, they also have this cool white stitching on them, I figure if I am really running low on time and money I can buy them and sew my reflective tape over the stiching, it's like a ready to use guideline! :)

BTW these are the leggings (Walmart has 2 colors, gray and black, I was only able to find a pic of the gray ones):
0880614590854_500X500.jpg
 
Exactly. That could be a perfect explanation why the programs at The End of the Line club at SDCC did not have actual lighting on their costumes. It would have cost thousands of dollars to replicate.

I went with 3M Scotchlite 8930 reflective fabric tape myself for my Quorra costume. For one no way do I have the funds for actual lighting and two I need my suit done in less than a week for Dragon Con. I am 85% finished. Even found perfect wedge boots like hers to work with. I am so happy about that.

Just go with Scotchlite everbody. Save yourself some money and the headache.

And trust me, I would never ever do this since I am big on my perfectionism replicating costumes. There are just some things(us poor ppl) can't do as the movies did ;).

~A


Hello!
And hi everyone too.
I have a question, is Scothchlite white when not lighted? I bought SOLAS and it's extermely bright when lighted, but damn DARK GREY the 90% of the time...:angry

I have plenty of tips and good ways to go for Sam and Quorra's costumes, I wish I posted sooner for you to have them, I've been looking at this thread for weeks. Sorry. Maybe in the future if you are interested to make updates in yours.

Thanks folks, keep researching, you are doing it great! Really!!
 
I found a supplier of EL tape that can provide 18" x 3" strips (in white) for about $9.50 each. That also comes with a 12V DC inverter.

I'm 6ft tall, and I estimate I'd need at least 16 of those strips to have a complete set (2 per arm - front/back, 2 for the chest, 2 for my back, 4 for each leg - front/back). That puts it at $152 plus shipping.

I can probably get a lower cost per unit if I buy more units at a time. I would post to the junkyard about this, but my account is too new. So please forgive this post.

I'm a total noob when it comes to costume making... I would be willing to trade someone's expertise on the rubber outershell for a good deal on some lights. :)
 
I found a supplier of EL tape that can provide 18" x 3" strips (in white) for about $9.50 each. That also comes with a 12V DC inverter.

I'm 6ft tall, and I estimate I'd need at least 16 of those strips to have a complete set (2 per arm - front/back, 2 for the chest, 2 for my back, 4 for each leg - front/back). That puts it at $152 plus shipping.

I can probably get a lower cost per unit if I buy more units at a time. I would post to the junkyard about this, but my account is too new. So please forgive this post.

I'm a total noob when it comes to costume making... I would be willing to trade someone's expertise on the rubber outershell for a good deal on some lights. :)


Hey I was wondering do they also had the neon green color available or just the white at that price?
 
Hi everyone,

I wanted to share some tips with you guys, since I like the kind of research you do. Info is power.
I've been making a massive research around the net before I make any of my costumes, to find the best quality and comfortable materials out there for perfect accuracy. For massive, I mean days doing anything but research. And trying some things.
Oh, and not spending three billlion dollars.

I have some tips and thoughts I'd like to share with you if you don't mind:

For the hex pattern: If you can print fabric, you are going further than me, I will go with plain black. Or even darkest grey.

Now:
There are two fabric layers for this suit, one underneath, and the rubber look, the outer.
My tips, after trying some other things:

I would (and will) go with neoprene wetsuit underneath. Better if it is double sided nylon. But, 1.5 or 2mm max thick, and AT LEAST ONE OR TWO SIZES LARGER THAN MY REGULAR SIZE.
Neoprene stretches, but we don't want to be THAT tight. This will fit perfect if we do this way.

Rubber outside layer: Smootskin neoprene sheet paddings. Ok, why not rubber? It does not stretch. It will break. Neoprene is made to fit, gives more rubber look and stretches as many times as needed.
With several thicks, as 2mm or 5mm, there are sheets out there. Slightly expensive for non-US (like me, I'm in Spain, and this will be a pain in my ass...), but quite cheaper for US residents. ONE SIDED NYLON, since the outer MUST be smooth.
You can also try to purchase a smoothskin wetsuit on ebay. Why? It is already tailored to human shape. Remember, this MUST be at least two sizes larger.

Cut your paddings and glue them to the underneath neoprene wetsuit with AQUASEAL. If you want deeper pads, make more than one layer of neoprene.

* VERY IMPORTANT* When measuring the pads, do it with your underneath wetsuit ON!! Remember, it stretches!


For the light panels:
Sad but true, we'll have to go with EL Wire. In my opinion:
El Tape is expensive, and breaks easily. I know. And it's a pain in the ass to make those corners accurate.
EL Panels are expensive and break easily, and a madness to wire.
Elastolite is my favourite, of course, but we are a low budget people. And so far they don't answer my emails.

EL Wire, at least 2.3mm. (Oh, and yes, WHITE). Less than this is breaks with time and repeated bendings. 2.5 is by far the brightest EL Wire ever, but again is cheaper for US residents. You will be brighter than me :angry
Hehe.
Oh, try to go with 9V or even 12V instead of AAA batts. And as longer the EL Wire is, more power you need. Search for shorter with more power. ;) This gives more bright. And nevermind the splits, they don't reduce the brightness.
My tips with EL Wiring:

When doing the Neoprene padding with the smootskin, leave the "light panels" part hollow.
Then put reflective tape in. As I said, Solas is fuc@~€~ng GREY when not lighted. I'm looking for WHITE one. Glue it to make the perfect "light" panels. Accuracy.
This will give you AT LEAST the perfect look without light. It IS something.

Depending of the thickness you have chosen on your neoprene paddings (I would go with 5mm on the chest, and 2 or 3 for the rest, for example), you will have different widths for the Wire to go. It's ok.
Then glue the EL Wire to the bottom of the walls of the hollow places and over the reflective tape. Doing this, EL Wire will be doubled, since there are two walls to fill, and it will draw the light panels perfectly.
For extreme accuracy, cover this panels with diffuser sheet. I don't recomend it, since it will wrinkle and may unglue. But it will work if you just...stay.


For Quorra's: Victoria's secret wedge booots look perfect, my girlfriend bought a pair. Awesome.
Remember choosing leatheresque leggings, there are plenty out there, don't go for second best with cotton!!


I'm sure there is something I miss, but we will find out all toghether, neh?

Keep it up folks!!
 
Hey I was wondering do they also had the neon green color available or just the white at that price?

They do have green available, but I'm not sure how "neon" it is. I'm not sure if we can mix colors in the order (and get a lower price), but I would expect that it could be had at the $9.50 price.
 
They do have green available, but I'm not sure how "neon" it is. I'm not sure if we can mix colors in the order (and get a lower price), but I would expect that it could be had at the $9.50 price.


Thanks. I'd be interested in knowing the source if you want to direct message me (unless you're cool with posting it in the open) The reason why I ask about the "neon green" is because there are 2 types of green I have found one blue green and the other the darker neon green like Luke Skywalker's light saber in Jedi (thats the color I'm going with)

Also, how are you planning to operate the light with a battery? I have a few samples here that have a 12V dc converter but I'm not sure how to connect them to a battery (i'm certainly not going to walk around with a 12v car battery all night ;) ) I was thinking of maybe getting a booster for a 9v and attaching it that way. What were you all thinking?
 
Thanks. I'd be interested in knowing the source if you want to direct message me (unless you're cool with posting it in the open) The reason why I ask about the "neon green" is because there are 2 types of green I have found one blue green and the other the darker neon green like Luke Skywalker's light saber in Jedi (thats the color I'm going with)

Also, how are you planning to operate the light with a battery? I have a few samples here that have a 12V dc converter but I'm not sure how to connect them to a battery (i'm certainly not going to walk around with a 12v car battery all night ;) ) I was thinking of maybe getting a booster for a 9v and attaching it that way. What were you all thinking?


For what I know, there are 12V batts and they are even smaller than a AAA...I prefer these, but a 9V inverter is easier to find. And quite small, can be attached to the back, even two of them.
 
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