The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

SaberFreak said:
My personal experience: Stay away from Wonderflex unless you have a deep pocket and don't mind cutting multiple copies of the same shape, or unless you just want to use it for accent or a very very think 'second skin' type armor.

It takes multiple layers to make Wonderflex keep the shape, and you need a special sealer to cover the web texture of the material if you want a smooth surface.
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Smooth Wonderflex is available now from cosplaysupplies.com; Worbla is perhaps the better option and wood glue is great for covering the rough texture to make it smoother so you can avoid layers and layers of gesso and priming. Both work great for making fantasy armor. A set of armor takes 2-8 jumbo sheets at about $80/sheet for Worbla. You can save a little by using Wonderflex for the big structure pieces and Worbla for the details. If you are interested in working with these materials you can learn all you need from KamuiCosplay's YouTube tutorials. She also has a $5 ebook out on the subject, I think it is well worth the $5.


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I was just wondering, I have foam for a Arkham Origins build I'm going to attempt I was just wondering if any body has to assemble the printed pieces of the pepakura file or is their a way to make all the pieces fit on letter sized paper? Any help is appreciated.


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SpideyMcfly said:
I was just wondering, I have foam for a Arkham Origins build I'm going to attempt I was just wondering if any body has to assemble the printed pieces of the pepakura file or is their a way to make all the pieces fit on letter sized paper? Any help is appreciated.


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In Pepakura, you can change the paper size under settings>printer and paper settings. You will then likely have to use the select and move and rotate options under 2d menu>edit mode to reorient the parts in the 2d view so that the pieces fit within the margins on the pages. A quicker (but less paper efficient) way to do this is to go under 2d menu>recalculate parts layout and select OK.
 
I've got a question for the modelers out there. I've started pulling models from X-Com to set up for pep and stumbling through 3DS Max, I've been able to remove a lot of the extra geometry and came up with a very clean model that came out in Pepakura very nicely. Unfortunately, it also created numerous open edges (the dreaded red lines). I've played around with the model in 3DS Max and Metasequoia and can identify the "holes" in every poly but I don't want to cap or bridge because it just creates the very polys I am trying to reduce. Any tips for getting rid of these red lines?
 
Sounds like your dealing with non-manifold meshes, could be several different things. You can pm me a link to the file (or email me laellee@hotmail.com) and I'll take a look at it for you. It's probably something very simple.
 
Need help finding any and all HE-MAN and the MOTU pep files and or patterns.
I would really appreciate any help.
I've search far and wide and have found nothing.
Thanks.
 
I've got a question I'm hoping someone can help me figure out.
I was recently given the PDO for the Arkham Freeze gun but for some reason a lot of the numbers are doubling up on each other. i.e. pieces are literally supposed to attach.
Can anyone help me out with this?

Also I've got some files for Arkham Mr. Freeze if anyone's willing to help me unfold the parts or at the very least separate them into a format that I can unfold them in pepakura?

Cheers!

Freeze Gun issue.jpg
 
Hey all, wondered if someone might be able to let me know if this is ok? I have started my first pep using 250gsm card stock and have started a Fett helmet, but I wondered if the ridges I'm getting is about normal? Am I using too thick card stock? Also I'm using a glue gun with thin sticks and finding it difficult at times lol but is this an ok method for glueing? Thanks in advance :D

image-9.jpg
 
Drac said:
Hey all, wondered if someone might be able to let me know if this is ok? I have started my first pep using 250gsm card stock and have started a Fett helmet, but I wondered if the ridges I'm getting is about normal? Am I using too thick card stock? Also I'm using a glue gun with thin sticks and finding it difficult at times lol but is this an ok method for glueing? Thanks in advance :D
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Hot glue guns work fine for gluing pepakura. Some people use super glue instead, it's really just a personal preference.

Your numbers look just about spot on. As for the ridges, you might want to see if you can get some paper in the 180-200 GSM range. Otherwise, ridges can be filled, leveled and sanded later when finishing.
 
Excellent thanks for the reply, I kept reading that people recommended 200 or better so I figured why not go for 250? It's workable and does the job but I just wasn't sure if maybe it was a bit TOO thick, but if it can be filled and sanded later then I'll not worry this time round. I'll aim for something around the 200 next time but I've got over 100 sheets of this stuff to use first, so I guess I'll be doing a lot of 'build testing' with it :D

I do find that the hot glue is a pain as you have to get it on the tabs and stick it quick before it dries, although our house is usually at a comfortable 17-18C it does cure quick, and makes quite a mess inside the helmet (which doesn't really matter). I might try super glue next time as I can pick it up pretty cheap from local pound stores, but I just can't stand the smell :rolleyes.

We will see how I get on :thumbsup

laellee said:
Hot glue guns work fine for gluing pepakura. Some people use super glue instead, it's really just a personal preference.

Your numbers look just about spot on. As for the ridges, you might want to see if you can get some paper in the 180-200 GSM range. Otherwise, ridges can be filled, leveled and sanded later when finishing.
Click to expand...
 
Got a question, I have used polyester resin on my pep, and of course it stinks but after it's dry it still smells, is it safe to have it in the house at this point? As it's getting cold in the garage, I know the fumes are harmful when using it, but unsure if it will be harmful once dried? It's been 2 days since I did it and I can still smell it when I get close to the pep, thanks all :D
 
Drac said:
Got a question, I have used polyester resin on my pep, and of course it stinks but after it's dry it still smells, is it safe to have it in the house at this point? As it's getting cold in the garage, I know the fumes are harmful when using it, but unsure if it will be harmful once dried? It's been 2 days since I did it and I can still smell it when I get close to the pep, thanks all :D
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If you can only smell it when you get close to the pep, you should be fine with bringing it in. Although fiberglass resin shouldn't really have an odor after it's fully cured, the cure time can take anywhere from under a day to YEARS depending on a lot of factors. My rule of thumb is, if the odor isn't pissing the girlfriend off, it's OK for it to be inside, which is a surprisingly reliable rule of thumb. :cool
 
Haha yeah I can relate to that rule, I'm not sure if I got the mix quite right to be honest, it's not tacky to touch it has gone hard but it looks much more of a red colour than others I've seen, and went off in jar within 5 minutes or so, perhaps to much hardener?

laellee said:
If you can only smell it when you get close to the pep, you should be fine with bringing it in. Although fiberglass resin shouldn't really have an odor after it's fully cured, the cure time can take anywhere from under a day to YEARS depending on a lot of factors. My rule of thumb is, if the odor isn't pissing the girlfriend off, it's OK for it to be inside, which is a surprisingly reliable rule of thumb. :cool
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Yep sounds like it. If it's not tacky, I wouldn't worry too much about it, I'd rather have too much catalyst than not enough. Bondo application (as well as primer/sealer) will end up covering a lot of remaining odors.
 
Thanks thats good to know, I was so bothered about it not curing I obviously over compinsated with the hardener, :facepalm

laellee said:
Yep sounds like it. If it's not tacky, I wouldn't worry too much about it, I'd rather have too much catalyst than not enough. Bondo application (as well as primer/sealer) will end up covering a lot of remaining odors.
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Is anyone know why when i print with (vector print setting) i get a black sheet of paper, and with (Bitmap print setting) i get numbers only, no outlines. I just able to printed 9 out of 15 pages...Help Me!!!! :(

p/s: i tried to print the ironman 2, maybe the .pdo file is corrupted? ERROR.png
 
tansrikroll said:
Is anyone know why when i print with (vector print setting) i get a black sheet of paper, and with (Bitmap print setting) i get numbers only, no outlines. I just able to printed 9 out of 15 pages...Help Me!!!! :(

p/s: i tried to print the ironman 2, maybe the .pdo file is corrupted?
Click to expand...

That's pretty screwy. I've seen corrupted .PDOs cause print problems, but I think I'd take a look at your printer driver software first. Make sure the drivers are current, and then also make sure you can print regular documents first.
 
laellee said:
That's pretty screwy. I've seen corrupted .PDOs cause print problems, but I think I'd take a look at your printer driver software first. Make sure the drivers are current, and then also make sure you can print regular documents first.
Click to expand...

Both pepakura viewer and designer can print out only 9 pages....the rest all printed as black...and im using brothers wireless printer with no document printing prob and other task.. :(
 
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