The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

89Forever · Sep 18, 2012

i don't think the scale works like that. the scale depends entirely on whatever format the creator created in. what i do is:
Say i am doing a for arm and i want it to go from my elbow to my wrist. i take that measurement and convert it to mm (if needed). then i measure the length on the part from the elbow to the wrist. the solution will be in mm. now take the current scale, multiply is by your length and divide by the part length. the answer you get will be your new scale factor.

I've gotten a lot of questions about scaling. i haven't looked, but others say their isn't a good video or written scaling explanation. does anyone know of one? if not, i may try and make one this weekend.

ADD: Also, please note that many parts intend for there to be a gap between your head and the helmet (or other part), please account for this in your scaling.

Be mindful that simply changing the scale might not be enough. you may need to make the part longer or wider instead.

Deelite · Sep 18, 2012

there was a great one at 405th.com but, until the site comes up, pretty much stuck with guess work.

89Forever · Sep 18, 2012

any idea when they will be back up and running? i guess it would be difficult to notify anyone...

Hacksaw44 · Sep 18, 2012

Cayce said:
You print it on a printer then move it to the Silhouette. The printed pages contain corner marks that the printer can use to align itself with so that the cuts match the printing.

Awesome, Then I need to order one !!

The Armorer · Sep 19, 2012

The 405TH is back online!

89Forever · Sep 19, 2012

Congrats!:thumbsup

Hacksaw44 · Sep 19, 2012

Yeah, I don't know about that. I tried to log in and get the same results. I am banned and then it says it will never be lifted. Hit the Contact us and it goes to "not found"

89Forever · Sep 19, 2012

:darnkids well that's what you get for destroying the 405ths site :lol

elro · Sep 19, 2012

This is a Ctrl+C / V of a post I did AGES ago. This is for those newer here that were asking about scaling

1. Once the Model has had the intial scale and Unfold applied you can then detect the distance between two points on the model.

2. The option is located here :

3. Moving the mouse across the surface of the model will display a red dot. You can then click, then find a new point on the surface of the model :

4. Finally, after clicking on the second point a little box will appear giving a readout of the XYZ + The distance (in MM) between the two selected points.

5. Adjust the scale up and down, and repeat the 2 point measurement function until you know your limb etc. will fit through the hole just fine

Cayce · Sep 20, 2012

Hacksaw44 said:
Awesome, Then I need to order one !!

It really is amazing thanks to the fact that there is a Pepakura program made specifically to work with it.

I would have given up on my Pep a long time ago without it. I have a bad shoulder and can hardly cut out a single page manually, let alone the numb fingers people report cutting out pages & pages.

One thing to note is that the cutting platform is veeeeery sticky when you first get it. It will reduce via usage, but you may want to 'de-stick' it a bit first. E.g. sticking an old cloth shirt to it many times.

What I have do is use really think paper (240gsm) which has the strength to be pulled off the pad without ripping.

With a new pad I print all pages with large pieces and minimal tabs first so that they reduce the stickiness before cutting out the pieces with lots of fiddly tabs.

Recognizer · Sep 20, 2012

I've made huge pep models that used over 70 pages of pieces. I had a good supply of sharp blades handy for my xact-o knife, so it wasn't the cutting out of pieces that bothered me the most. I used the edge of a butter knife in order to get clean folds on the edges, and doing that for a thousand folds on hundreds of pages and several hundred pieces will definitely give you blisters on your index finger, that's for sure.

89Forever · Sep 20, 2012

yeah i kind of wondered if the cutter would only cut the outline of the shape or if i could get it to do the black lines/dots on the fold lines. that perforation would be worth a ton to me. i almost feel like a cutter isn't worth it if i have to go back through every piece and score it anyway. i'd much rather deal with tabs ripping.

CaseyAlexandra · Sep 20, 2012

Thank you Recognizer and elro for the input! I think an expanding foam filler sounds like a good route to try first

elro said:
So youre going to mold and cast it once done?

Simple! it doesnt need to be hollow, so use some exanding foam inside to solidify the shape

Dont stop there!
Why use bondo and resin to create your outer surface? I assume you're making a silicone mold, so why not just use sulphur free clay to sculpt the shape?

On the subject of clay: I actually *do* have a clay master horn sculpted out that's basically ready for molding. Buuuuut I decided it wasn't big/badass enough, and decided a more angular design was more along my aesthetic as well (first sculpt is smoothly rounded). Also...I'm just not good enough at sculpting yet to get beautifully smooth surfaces that wouldn't need final bondo/sanding after casting anyway. I decided that getting all the finishing work out of the way initially would leave me with a mold I could pull paint-ready pieces from. We'll see!

Hacksaw44 · Sep 20, 2012

Cayce said:
It really is amazing thanks to the fact that there is a Pepakura program made specifically to work with it.

I would have given up on my Pep a long time ago without it. I have a bad shoulder and can hardly cut out a single page manually, let alone the numb fingers people report cutting out pages & pages.

One thing to note is that the cutting platform is veeeeery sticky when you first get it. It will reduce via usage, but you may want to 'de-stick' it a bit first. E.g. sticking an old cloth shirt to it many times.

What I have do is use really think paper (240gsm) which has the strength to be pulled off the pad without ripping.

With a new pad I print all pages with large pieces and minimal tabs first so that they reduce the stickiness before cutting out the pieces with lots of fiddly tabs.

And is that Program on there site ? Maybe extra on the price ? I want to use it to cut vinyl anyway so it would come in handy for other things

Cayce · Sep 21, 2012

It is a special version of the Viewer. It requires a license. I don't recall if there is a trial version or what is supported in a trial version.

I have not tried cutting vinyl. You should read the specs and online info to ensure you can cut your required materials.

CP

Hacksaw44 said:
And is that Program on there site ? Maybe extra on the price ? I want to use it to cut vinyl anyway so it would come in handy for other things

89Forever · Sep 21, 2012

i just checked it out: Pepakura Viewer for Silhouette CAMEO
until you by a license ($15), you can only cut one part on the first page.

Proximitus · Sep 21, 2012

Best material to use with .pep files?

I'm trying to make an Iron Man suit and started with the helm, just to try, but it won't work.

I used regular print paper, but that's not strong enough.. So, I was wondering, what SHOULD I use? I know that cardboard is alot sturdier, but which one should I use? And is it possible to use cardboard/strong paper and print the pieces on it, or do I have to copy them from paper to cardboard?

I'm trying to make the entire armor and put it on display in my room

Hacksaw44 · Sep 21, 2012

Cayce said:
It is a special version of the Viewer. It requires a license. I don't recall if there is a trial version or what is supported in a trial version.

I have not tried cutting vinyl. You should read the specs and online info to ensure you can cut your required materials.

CP

Ok, I know it works for vinyl as a friend uses it for that. I already payed the $38.00 for the designer , so another $15.00 for the pep version ? Not to bad. I had 60 pages for the Master Chief helmet ( HD ) . It wasn't that bad to cut.

toastie · Sep 22, 2012

Re: Best material to use with .pep files?

I have been using A4 cardstock on my helmet mate. I think the thickness is 160 gsm.

Proximitus · Sep 22, 2012

Re: Best material to use with .pep files?

Yeah, I read about that cardstock.. Is that expensive? And what's to best way to fold those tiiiny little strokes of paper that are in between the big plate-like pieces? Like the eyes and the teeth and such?

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