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  1. RPF Premium Member stormtrooperguy's Avatar
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    Jun 21, 2010, 8:15 AM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #101

    i bet modge podge would work well too.

    modge podge - Google Product Search
  2. Serve the Public Trust RPF Premium Member nachtinis's Avatar
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    Jun 21, 2010, 10:17 AM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #102

    I use polyurethane spray.
  3. JackAce's Avatar
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    Jun 21, 2010, 10:26 PM - there has to be a better way (working in pep) #103

    hey guys, once again i must apologizes for my ignorance as well as possibly posting this to the wrong section of the forum (i still don't have access to an offtopic section yet or i would have asked there)

    anywho my problem is this... I've been printing out pep files and putting them together but its so damn hard to do because i can't figure out how to get the tabs to display numbers (like tab 52 should be glued to tab 52 or whatever) I've just been using the preview window and mousing over tabs and following the red line to see which tabs correspond with each other. i know there has to be better easier way.

    can anyone please show me how to make the numbers pop up? i do have pep designer as well as viewer, so i would imagine i have the necessary tools to make this happen.

    at any rate, feel free to make fun of me. i appreciate any assistance provided.
  4. RPF Premium Member Risu's Avatar
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    Jun 21, 2010, 10:41 PM - Re: there has to be a better way (working in pep) #104

    In pep viewer go to View, then click Show Edge ID. In designer it's 2d menu --> Show Edge ID.
  5. JackAce's Avatar
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    Jun 21, 2010, 10:50 PM - Re: there has to be a better way (working in pep) #105

    thank you very much. i must have clicked that a hundred times and never saw any difference. i guess i was just too zoomed out and never thought to really bring it in tight to see if anything was changing. *bangs head on desk*
  6. izabel's Avatar
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    Jun 23, 2010, 8:38 AM - Re: there has to be a better way (working in pep) #106



  7. Loess's Avatar
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    NW Iowa, USA
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    Jun 23, 2010, 1:33 PM - Re: there has to be a better way (working in pep) #107

    If the Edge ID font size is set too small it'll display on screen, but the numbers won't print off with the pattern pieces. In Pep Designer 2 it was if the font was less than 6 or 8, I believe.
  8. Rick Hanson's Avatar
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    Jun 23, 2010, 4:15 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #108

    I can verify that Designer 3, at least, prints jut fine with the font set to 5. I don't think I ever tried to change it in previous versions.
  9. rundown's Avatar
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    Jun 25, 2010, 6:46 AM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #109

    could this site go in the first post? PropZone

    We have alot of freebies. Still havn't added all the free stuff yet but the list is growing.
    We also do comision work and have alot of nice acurate files
  10. Rick Hanson's Avatar
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    Jun 27, 2010, 10:53 AM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #110

    OK, if anyone gives a hoot...I've implemented a very basic non-image file storage service. It'll currently only accept PDO, PDF, and ZIP files (trying to keep it limited to papercraft-oriented stuff.) It should be pretty self-explanatory.

    So, if you're at all inclined: Paper Iron Man
  11. RPF Premium Member JBReplicas's Avatar
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    Jun 28, 2010, 12:19 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #111

    Just wanted to throw this in here as its a useful tip for anyone who is fiberglassing their pep parts, instead of using fiberglass cloth I used regular kitchen paper towel and brushed the resin on to that, it cured solid just as cloth would normally, just a small tip there to hopefully help anyone save a few coins.
  12. themanwoaname is offline themanwoaname
    Jun 28, 2010, 6:49 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #112

    i was wondering, ive been taping for almost a week now and havent folded the first thing, but my helmet's taking shape. am i doing something wrong?

    ps. thanks commander cody, i'll try the papertowels. i have a crap ton of fiberglass chop mat though. this time around is 100 percent expirementation
    Last edited by themanwoaname; Jun 28, 2010 at 6:55 PM.
  13. Rick Hanson's Avatar
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    Jun 28, 2010, 7:54 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #113

    As long as you're achieving the proper end shape, there's no hard and fast rule that says you actually have to fold on every marked line. Lots of curves on the helmet, so it lends itself to more bending than folding. You'll see on other pieces that a sharp fold is absolutely required to make the proper angles and such. It all depends on the model.

    So no, you're not doing anything wrong at all if it looks right to you!
  14. themanwoaname is offline themanwoaname
    Jun 29, 2010, 2:36 AM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #114

    whew! thanks! i like that its coming together so quickly. thats also probably why im not sure im doing it right.
  15. RPF Premium Member Alric's Avatar
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    Jul 2, 2010, 8:50 AM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #115

    Whats the best weight of card to use for peping ?
  16. Member Since
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    Jul 2, 2010, 9:22 AM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #116

    Alric said: View Post
    Whats the best weight of card to use for peping ?
    It really comes down to your personal preference, but around 110 lbs index or 200 gsm cardstock is what most people recommend. If you're unsure, I would say go heavier rather than lighter, as pepakura models will be subject to warpage if you use too thin paper.
  17. Rick Hanson's Avatar
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    Jul 2, 2010, 6:45 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #117

    As Paw said, 110lb/200gsm is pretty much the standard for most stuff. I also use 67lb/148gsm for pieces that, for various reasons (and this is kind of an experience thing) tend to work better with slightly lighter stock. Small, intricate items such as detail parts are sometimes much easier to fold with the lighter stuff. It's all personal preference though, and you'll just have to experiment a little to see what works best in a particular situation.

    Having said that - definitely use the 110lb/200gsm for any major assembly, hands down. Anything lighter will be WAY too floppy when it's all put together.
  18. JohnConstantine is offline JohnConstantine
    Jul 4, 2010, 4:59 AM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #118

    ok, I am trying to scale the Iron Man suit in Pepakura Designer 3. I am changing the scale to 26.108 and I keep getting the error message
    "specify 1-2000 for assembled size" any clue what I am doing wrong? thanks in advance
  19. cayman shen's Avatar
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    Jul 9, 2010, 3:39 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #119

    Dancin_Fool said: View Post
    An alternative to using fibreglass which is kid safe is to use wood glue and cheesecloth. You can brush on the outside with wood glue and then wood glue with the cheese cloth on the inside. It's safe and a great cheap way to add some strength and durability to the prop/costume piece.
    What a cool idea, thank!

    What is polyurethane spray?

    And finally, I'm doing a Pred Bio with cardstock and white glue. If I was to put Super Sculpey over that and bake it at a very low temp, would the glue melt and cause the piece to seperate? I'm gonna do a test run, but if someone knows for sure it won't work, I'll save my Sculpey.
  20. Rick Hanson's Avatar
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    Jul 9, 2010, 5:03 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #120

    White glue melts at a fairly low temperature, although I don't know specifically what that temp is.

    I build model rockets out of paper as well, and one of techniques to rolling a perfect body tube is to coat one edge of the paper with white glue, let it dry, roll it to the desired diameter, and then go over the seam with a clothes iron. The heat from the iron melts the glue and fuses the paper.

    You could always do a test - just glue some paper scraps together and bake them for a little while. Preferably at a very low temperature and with a fire extinguisher handy just in case.
  21. cayman shen's Avatar
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    Jul 9, 2010, 6:29 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #121

    Pilot said: View Post
    White glue melts at a fairly low temperature, although I don't know specifically what that temp is.

    I build model rockets out of paper as well, and one of techniques to rolling a perfect body tube is to coat one edge of the paper with white glue, let it dry, roll it to the desired diameter, and then go over the seam with a clothes iron. The heat from the iron melts the glue and fuses the paper.

    You could always do a test - just glue some paper scraps together and bake them for a little while. Preferably at a very low temperature and with a fire extinguisher handy just in case.
    Yeah, that's exactly the test I was gonna try, minus the fire extinguisher! What the heck, I rent...
  22. Rick Hanson's Avatar
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    Jul 9, 2010, 6:45 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #122

    cayman shen said: View Post
    Yeah, that's exactly the test I was gonna try, minus the fire extinguisher! What the heck, I rent...


    Well, I'm only a few hours north of you, so I can bring an extinguisher down if you run into trouble. Not that it'll be of any help by then, but at least you'll have something to bash your head against.
  23. Member Since
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    Jul 10, 2010, 3:36 PM - Iron Man Pepakura Helmet - Second Go. Finished. Any resin tips?? #123

    is it possible to add colour to the parts in pepakura designer?
    Last edited by BadBoyHouse; Jul 10, 2010 at 5:46 PM.
  24. Klwl's Avatar
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    May 2010
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    Ottawa, Canada
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    Jul 10, 2010, 5:46 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #124

    resoning is pretty easy, even I can do it! Fiberglassing is a tad more involved but not mind boggling just take your time and you can even do it in stages. Now bondoing on the other hand I have no advice at all since i suck so terribly bad at it. But to answer your question at bondo stage yes you can sand re-bondo (or w/e you use to harden it ie. joint compound, bondo, etc) then sand, and repeat if needed.

    I wish I could just pep a helmet, strengthen and then apply a thin coat of clay to shape it......

    cheers
  25. _TiKi_'s Avatar
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    Jul 10, 2010, 5:59 PM - Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST! #125

    Edit : yeh I think I took care of the problem.
    Last edited by _TiKi_; Jul 11, 2010 at 9:18 AM.

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