The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!


Looks to me, from a quick pass through a couple of CriCut pages, that those machines are cartridge-controlled rather than taking their commands from a computer connection. I doubt you could get a CriCut to even look at a pepakura pattern.

The Silhouette SD, a similar machine which I purchased last year for less than the CriCut you linked (not MUCH less - was $180 for the machine, IIRC), will accept commands from the pepakura program over a USB cable, and works like a charm.
 
Looks to me, from a quick pass through a couple of CriCut pages, that those machines are cartridge-controlled rather than taking their commands from a computer connection. I doubt you could get a CriCut to even look at a pepakura pattern.

The Silhouette SD, a similar machine which I purchased last year for less than the CriCut you linked (not MUCH less - was $180 for the machine, IIRC), will accept commands from the pepakura program over a USB cable, and works like a charm.

it doesn't by chance have a perforation feature does it? I am assuming it probably just cuts the piece out and that's it (still a huge time saver).
 
it doesn't by chance have a perforation feature does it? I am assuming it probably just cuts the piece out and that's it (still a huge time saver).

Perforation is just making dashed cuts(cut a millimeter or two, lift blade, move a millimeter or two, repeat). Every cutter that is supported by Pepakura Viewer for CraftROBO should be able to do it.
 
Hey guys,

I wanted to ask about what people do when sanding stuff made with Pepakura.

I have been making some things by slush casting resin inside pepakura recently and I've found that when it comes to sanding these things, I sometimes get parts where the paper gets fuzzy from sanding. It feels smooth to the touch but when I apply primer it soaks(?) into the exposed paper and looks pretty ugly.



swordfuzz.jpg


I remember someone here on RPF mentioning how they took care of it on their props, but I couldn't find anything through the search. Anyone have any advice/experience with the same thing?
 
Either coat the outside with a layer of resin, or paint the exposed areas with emulsion paint, lightly sand(with 600-800 grid sandpaper), then prime.
 
The problem is that I've found that the paper does'nt like paint without something like resin inbetween. So the trick is to sand the resin but don't sand down to the paper. For me I use urathane resin on all my pep pieces, I brush 2-3 coats on the outside and do a quick slush cast inside and it turns out pretty good and not a lot of sanding to do.
 
do you use fiberglass or just the resin?

The problem is that I've found that the paper does'nt like paint without something like resin inbetween. So the trick is to sand the resin but don't sand down to the paper. For me I use urathane resin on all my pep pieces, I brush 2-3 coats on the outside and do a quick slush cast inside and it turns out pretty good and not a lot of sanding to do.
 
I don't use fiberglass anymore at all, all I use inside and out is urathane resin. I hardly even use bondo anymore, I use sheetrock putty now, sand and brush a coat of resin after the sanding is done.
 
it doesn't by chance have a perforation feature does it? I am assuming it probably just cuts the piece out and that's it (still a huge time saver).

The Silhouette? Yeah, it does - like German said, any cutter supported by the Pepakura Viewer program will do perforations. Be aware that perfs may sever small pieces like tiny tabs, and make it more likely that you'll rip your parts separating them from the rest of the cardstock.

You'll still be ahead of the game with the machine, though.
 
Textures in Pep files.

I've seen a few pep models that have had colors assigned to different parts and wanted to know how it's done. I've tried playing with the textures in Designer but have no managed to get them in there.

Here's an example of what I would like to do.

pep1.jpg


thanks.
Dean
 
I don't use fiberglass anymore at all, all I use inside and out is urathane resin. I hardly even use bondo anymore, I use sheetrock putty now, sand and brush a coat of resin after the sanding is done.

Do you mind my asking where you get your urathane resin at? I have found a few places online, but I haven't really heard from anyone on here where the buy.
 
Do you mind my asking where you get your urathane resin at? I have found a few places online, but I haven't really heard from anyone on here where the buy.

if you do a search on polyurethane resin on google. You'd find a lot. That's probably why exact details aren't mentioned as resources are easy to find if you just search

first results that show is "Smooth-on"

check the smooth-on website for a distributor near your area.

Oklahoma
Reynolds Advanced Materials
2131 S. Harwood St.
Dallas, TX 75215
(800) 421-4378
www.reynoldsam.com

You can save some money on shipping if you go directly there most likely.
and should be pretty cheap even if you need it shipped.
 
Anyone have any tips for spot filling?

When I use Bondo I will run into what looks airpockets when sanding.

Should I just try and mix a small batch of Bondo to fill then sand or does everyone use something else.
 
Re: Textures in Pep files.

I've seen a few pep models that have had colors assigned to different parts and wanted to know how it's done. I've tried playing with the textures in Designer but have no managed to get them in there.
You have to texture the model with an external 3D program. If you are building the model from scratch, this is easy to do and you should already know how to build a UV map and texture. Assuming this is a pepakura file that you want to color then you have to do something like:

  1. Export the pepakura model as an OBJ.
  2. Open in your favorite 3D modeling program like Maya, 3D Studio, etc. and hope the model already has a UV map. If it does not, you are out of luck and are going to have create one, do the same things below and also unfold it again.
  3. Then you can just 3D paint or assign colors/shaders by polygons, etc.
  4. Save your texture as a .bmp, .jpg, .png or .tga.
  5. Open up your pepakura file and go to Settings->Texture Settings
  6. The list box on the left is a list of all the polygon groups in the model, most pepakura files only have one but depending on their source, there could be more than one. Each of these would need its own texture. Depending on the 3D program you used, you may just need to specify the same texture image for each group or possibly create new ones for each.
  7. Click Specify Texture Image... and pick your file.
  8. You should see a textured model.

I actually did this to texture the Republic Commando model that is floating around out there. I got lucky and someone created it with a UV map, so all I had to do was screenshot the texture from the game assets and apply it, which was nice.
 
This thread is more than 3 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top