The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!
- Thread starter DaddyfromNaboo
- Start date
-
- Tags
- star wars
Pilot
Sr Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
Hey CC! I actually just answered this question a few days ago in a separate thread, but it's information that probably ought to be in this one as well, so:
Yes. After a fashion. :lol
The Pepakura Designer program can export to several different file formats. The most "universal" 3D format it's capable of is OBJ, which can be natively imported into just about any 3D package you could think of. From there, it'd be a question of tweaking the mesh as needed and then re-converting it to whatever format the CAM software needs to cut the pieces.
The thing to keep in mind is, by their very nature, PDO files are comparatively pretty lo-res. Machining them out is still going to leave a ****load of faceted surfaces which will require a not-insignificant amount of work to smooth out. On the bright side - it'd still be WAY faster than cutting and gluing everything. :lol
Hey CC! I actually just answered this question a few days ago in a separate thread, but it's information that probably ought to be in this one as well, so:
Yes. After a fashion. :lol
The Pepakura Designer program can export to several different file formats. The most "universal" 3D format it's capable of is OBJ, which can be natively imported into just about any 3D package you could think of. From there, it'd be a question of tweaking the mesh as needed and then re-converting it to whatever format the CAM software needs to cut the pieces.
The thing to keep in mind is, by their very nature, PDO files are comparatively pretty lo-res. Machining them out is still going to leave a ****load of faceted surfaces which will require a not-insignificant amount of work to smooth out. On the bright side - it'd still be WAY faster than cutting and gluing everything. :lol
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
Here's another question as the 405th didn't have much. Has anyone seen pep files of the armor the marines wear in Halo Wars? All I found on the 405 was the spartan armor. I love the look of the marine armor in the game.
Here's another question as the 405th didn't have much. Has anyone seen pep files of the armor the marines wear in Halo Wars? All I found on the 405 was the spartan armor. I love the look of the marine armor in the game.
Xxblackbird
Sr Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
I have a question regarding the hot glue method. Basically, it's where you use a ton of hot glue (like a half inch) on the inside of the object so it keeps its shape.
I have a helmet assembled. It's my first attempt and it's pretty junky and needs a tremendous amount of smoothing and re-touching. The inside is covered with a liberal amount of hot glue and the shape is very sturdy and heavy. I've dropped it several times and had people squeeze on it with only a little bit of give.
My question is... do I bondo now? The hot glue tutorials I've seen describe the application of hot glue but they stop there. Does it replace the entire fiberglass step and send me directly to the bondo stage?
Has anyone attempted this? Does anyone have any general suggestions or advice for this technique?
I've actually taken up pepakura because I can do it at my job. I'm at a desk for 8 hours (sometimes 16) with no lunch or breaks with brief yet frequent downtime. Because of this I'm able to do everything from printing, cutting, folding to gluing from my desk. I've used a very small high temp hot glue gun to assemble the helmet, then a much larger high temp gun to basically pour huge amounts of molten glue into it. It's worked very well so far. It's also great for me because I don't have anywhere I'd consider safe to apply the resin except outside, and I work at night and sleep all day so that's not a very good alternative. Despite the slight odor of hot glue, I can do it safely and easily at work with limited to no irritation to my coworkers.
I have a question regarding the hot glue method. Basically, it's where you use a ton of hot glue (like a half inch) on the inside of the object so it keeps its shape.
I have a helmet assembled. It's my first attempt and it's pretty junky and needs a tremendous amount of smoothing and re-touching. The inside is covered with a liberal amount of hot glue and the shape is very sturdy and heavy. I've dropped it several times and had people squeeze on it with only a little bit of give.
My question is... do I bondo now? The hot glue tutorials I've seen describe the application of hot glue but they stop there. Does it replace the entire fiberglass step and send me directly to the bondo stage?
Has anyone attempted this? Does anyone have any general suggestions or advice for this technique?
I've actually taken up pepakura because I can do it at my job. I'm at a desk for 8 hours (sometimes 16) with no lunch or breaks with brief yet frequent downtime. Because of this I'm able to do everything from printing, cutting, folding to gluing from my desk. I've used a very small high temp hot glue gun to assemble the helmet, then a much larger high temp gun to basically pour huge amounts of molten glue into it. It's worked very well so far. It's also great for me because I don't have anywhere I'd consider safe to apply the resin except outside, and I work at night and sleep all day so that's not a very good alternative. Despite the slight odor of hot glue, I can do it safely and easily at work with limited to no irritation to my coworkers.
Pilot
Sr Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
This is just my opinion, since I've never tried the hot glue thing - but if the item seems sturdy and doesn't flex very much, I'd imagine that applying Bondo at this stage would be OK. Unless you really go nuts with the fiberglass, resined (is that a word? :lol) pieces still have a bit of "give" to them, but I honestly couldn't say how much compared to what your glued pieces feel like.
Keep in mind that if the only safe place you have to use resin is outside, then that's also going to be the only safe place to use Bondo. It's just as nasty as the resin, and you should have ample ventilation and wear a respirator while mixing, applying, and being near it when it's still curing.
If I were you, I'd probably take a small and easy-to-Pep piece like an elbow or a handplate or something, and try the complete technique on that before I jumped in on the helmet. It'll be a lot less time lost if it doesn't work well, and it'll give you a bit of practice with working the Bondo before you tackle the important stuff.
Again, this is just my semi-educated opinion, and if someone else has better or more correct information I'll gladly stand corrected.
This is just my opinion, since I've never tried the hot glue thing - but if the item seems sturdy and doesn't flex very much, I'd imagine that applying Bondo at this stage would be OK. Unless you really go nuts with the fiberglass, resined (is that a word? :lol) pieces still have a bit of "give" to them, but I honestly couldn't say how much compared to what your glued pieces feel like.
Keep in mind that if the only safe place you have to use resin is outside, then that's also going to be the only safe place to use Bondo. It's just as nasty as the resin, and you should have ample ventilation and wear a respirator while mixing, applying, and being near it when it's still curing.
If I were you, I'd probably take a small and easy-to-Pep piece like an elbow or a handplate or something, and try the complete technique on that before I jumped in on the helmet. It'll be a lot less time lost if it doesn't work well, and it'll give you a bit of practice with working the Bondo before you tackle the important stuff.
Again, this is just my semi-educated opinion, and if someone else has better or more correct information I'll gladly stand corrected.
Xxblackbird
Sr Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
Thank you. That's the exact response I was looking for.
I may make one of the "tester" helmets and try to bondo it first. They're low-detail and easy to assemble, so I can get the hang of smoothing and shaping a bit on that one first. I have basically unlimited time and resources for the early stages, so re-building isn't too much of a problem. The bondo and paint stages will be the expensive parts that I'll have to do on my days off and thus don't want to jack up.
I now have plans to make a little work area on my deck for the bondo. I'll staple plastic sheets up around it to keep cold wind out, but leave enough open for ample ventilation, and use 2 or 3 electric heaters to keep me warm(ish) while working.
Thank you. That's the exact response I was looking for.
I may make one of the "tester" helmets and try to bondo it first. They're low-detail and easy to assemble, so I can get the hang of smoothing and shaping a bit on that one first. I have basically unlimited time and resources for the early stages, so re-building isn't too much of a problem. The bondo and paint stages will be the expensive parts that I'll have to do on my days off and thus don't want to jack up.
I now have plans to make a little work area on my deck for the bondo. I'll staple plastic sheets up around it to keep cold wind out, but leave enough open for ample ventilation, and use 2 or 3 electric heaters to keep me warm(ish) while working.
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
does anyone know of a website were theres any TRON:LEGACY pepakura helmets? specifically rinzler's?
does anyone know of a website were theres any TRON:LEGACY pepakura helmets? specifically rinzler's?
MrRoboto
Well-Known Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
Propzone
It ain't free, but I was searching for the same thing the other day, and somebody in another thread posted this... It's the only one I've found so far, so hopefully that helps.
An industrial person could presumably rip the 3D models from one of the TRON games and make a pattern from scratch with the software. I've done similar things for games from Steam/Valve.
Propzone
It ain't free, but I was searching for the same thing the other day, and somebody in another thread posted this... It's the only one I've found so far, so hopefully that helps.
An industrial person could presumably rip the 3D models from one of the TRON games and make a pattern from scratch with the software. I've done similar things for games from Steam/Valve.
Xxblackbird
Sr Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
So I've pepped and hardened a Predator Bio (which turned out warped), a Boba Fett helmet and an Iron Man helmet. I started to bondo the Predator Bio and Boba Fett but the cold and snow drove me back inside.
Does anyone know any non-toxic alternatives to bondo?
It's mentioned a lot on the 405th, but like a LOT of their threads they're populated by 12 year olds and the topics never reach resolution.
Some alternatives that are mentioned are Mighty Putty (which no one ever seemed to agree on), spackle and polymer clay. The spackle doesn't seem like it would have a texture that can be smoothed down and the clay might break easily.
Does anyone have any experience with non-toxic alternatives to bondo?
So I've pepped and hardened a Predator Bio (which turned out warped), a Boba Fett helmet and an Iron Man helmet. I started to bondo the Predator Bio and Boba Fett but the cold and snow drove me back inside.
Does anyone know any non-toxic alternatives to bondo?
It's mentioned a lot on the 405th, but like a LOT of their threads they're populated by 12 year olds and the topics never reach resolution.
Some alternatives that are mentioned are Mighty Putty (which no one ever seemed to agree on), spackle and polymer clay. The spackle doesn't seem like it would have a texture that can be smoothed down and the clay might break easily.
Does anyone have any experience with non-toxic alternatives to bondo?
Pilot
Sr Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
'ello again, Mr. Blackbird!
I had to do a little searching, but I finally found this post by mightyJohn that details the use of drywall joint compound instead of Bondo. He seems to have had very good luck with it, and his costumes are definitely worn out and about rather than placed on mannequins.
I see people mention spackle as well, and I think they're getting it confused with proper joint compound. They're definitely not the same material...spackle tends to be very lightweight and is meant for small nails holes and such, while joint compound is much thicker and is meant to fill in and smooth the large gaps left between pieces of wallboard.
The downside: as detailed in mightyJohn's post, you'll need to prime every single layer of joint compound you apply. That can be tough to accomplish in the cold weather.
'ello again, Mr. Blackbird!
I had to do a little searching, but I finally found this post by mightyJohn that details the use of drywall joint compound instead of Bondo. He seems to have had very good luck with it, and his costumes are definitely worn out and about rather than placed on mannequins.
I see people mention spackle as well, and I think they're getting it confused with proper joint compound. They're definitely not the same material...spackle tends to be very lightweight and is meant for small nails holes and such, while joint compound is much thicker and is meant to fill in and smooth the large gaps left between pieces of wallboard.
The downside: as detailed in mightyJohn's post, you'll need to prime every single layer of joint compound you apply. That can be tough to accomplish in the cold weather.
Xxblackbird
Sr Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
Anyone know if you can use joint compound and bondo glaze/spot filler together?
I didn't even see this response! And once again, it's exactly what I was looking for. I think I'm going to try joint compound instead of bondo on the Dr. Fate helmet I'm working on now. Thanks again.
Anyone know if you can use joint compound and bondo glaze/spot filler together?
I'd be interested as well. Perhaps a Pep' Request thread wouldn't be a bad thing? There are several I'd like to see (Grevious, IG-88, Battle Droids, misc. SW weapons, a Brain Slug from Futurama, the Samaratin, the stones from the Fifth Element and a bunch more I'd like to see done).
Last edited:
Xxblackbird
Sr Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
Just to add a little additional info for the budget-minded pepakura enthusuasts.
I found a gallon of joint compound at Wal-Mart for about $6. Later I found a huge tub in my store room that was leftover from the previous tenants and promptly returned the other bucket to walmart. This stuff is increadibly easy to find and very cheap.
However, it is also very brittle.
Joint compound and the hot glue method don't really seem to be compatible. While the hot glue method does harden your pep pretty well, there is still a very slight amount of flexability that will crack the joint compound very easily especially around the more flimsy or protruding parts of any helmet.
I've been adding thin layers of joint compound, sanding then adding a layer of primer and repeating the process. The joint compound sands easily and can be applied very easily, and has the slight smell and consistency of old-school Nickelodean's Gak. It also dries quickly and is an easy clean-up.
I'm pushing forward with an Iron Man helmet build, cracks and all. I've already added 3 layers of joint compound and I'll add at least one more. I'm going to try orange peel to fill the cracks and holes from the joint compound then several coats of enamel paint.
Also, reference the light up eyes for Iron Man, I've applied a generoud amount of hot glue to the sticky side of a strip of clear scotch tape that was measured to be the same size as the eye socket. I've then taped it behind those eye-holes to produce a translucent white "lens." I then hot glued a small rare earth magnet just above the eyes. I've taken a white led and attached it to a 3 volt watch battery with scotch tape. The battery and led stick to the magnet, the led rests on the back of the thick hot glue eyes and it produces a pretty bright white glow. The hot glue acts as a decent diffuser. It looks good in a dimly lit room. The leds stay lit for a very long time but you can just pop them off the magnets and pull the tape off the battery when you don't need them lit up.
Led's are about a buck each at Radio Shack. A pair of small rare earth magnets are $2 at Radio Shack. 3 volt batteries are about $1.50 each at the dollar store. Low tech but cheap and you can find all of that cheaper online.
Just to add a little additional info for the budget-minded pepakura enthusuasts.
I found a gallon of joint compound at Wal-Mart for about $6. Later I found a huge tub in my store room that was leftover from the previous tenants and promptly returned the other bucket to walmart. This stuff is increadibly easy to find and very cheap.
However, it is also very brittle.
Joint compound and the hot glue method don't really seem to be compatible. While the hot glue method does harden your pep pretty well, there is still a very slight amount of flexability that will crack the joint compound very easily especially around the more flimsy or protruding parts of any helmet.
I've been adding thin layers of joint compound, sanding then adding a layer of primer and repeating the process. The joint compound sands easily and can be applied very easily, and has the slight smell and consistency of old-school Nickelodean's Gak. It also dries quickly and is an easy clean-up.
I'm pushing forward with an Iron Man helmet build, cracks and all. I've already added 3 layers of joint compound and I'll add at least one more. I'm going to try orange peel to fill the cracks and holes from the joint compound then several coats of enamel paint.
Also, reference the light up eyes for Iron Man, I've applied a generoud amount of hot glue to the sticky side of a strip of clear scotch tape that was measured to be the same size as the eye socket. I've then taped it behind those eye-holes to produce a translucent white "lens." I then hot glued a small rare earth magnet just above the eyes. I've taken a white led and attached it to a 3 volt watch battery with scotch tape. The battery and led stick to the magnet, the led rests on the back of the thick hot glue eyes and it produces a pretty bright white glow. The hot glue acts as a decent diffuser. It looks good in a dimly lit room. The leds stay lit for a very long time but you can just pop them off the magnets and pull the tape off the battery when you don't need them lit up.
Led's are about a buck each at Radio Shack. A pair of small rare earth magnets are $2 at Radio Shack. 3 volt batteries are about $1.50 each at the dollar store. Low tech but cheap and you can find all of that cheaper online.
Ironman (LOLZ Art) Helmet Scale - Pepakura
Hello,
I was considering starting to build an Iron Man helmet from pepakura. Anyone have any tips for scale?
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
I was considering starting to build an Iron Man helmet from pepakura. Anyone have any tips for scale?
Thanks in advance!
MissMurder
New Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
what is Pepakura?
what is Pepakura?
Pilot
Sr Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
You managed to open this 11-page thread and ask that question without even reading the first post?
Jaiden Turr'n
New Member
Re: Ironman (LOLZ Art) Helmet Scale - Pepakura
Meh...you know how us Florida people are...one good cold snap and our brains freeze.:lol
But, yes, MissMurder, please read the rest of the thread.
It may be a little trial and error. The pep files are scaled automatically when you put in a new number into any of the fields. I would start with the height. Since the IM generally goes from below the chin to the crown, I'd say start with that measurement on yourself and see how the file turns out. It's supposed to be a snug fit, so keep scaling until you get it like you want.
Meh...you know how us Florida people are...one good cold snap and our brains freeze.:lol
But, yes, MissMurder, please read the rest of the thread.
It may be a little trial and error. The pep files are scaled automatically when you put in a new number into any of the fields. I would start with the height. Since the IM generally goes from below the chin to the crown, I'd say start with that measurement on yourself and see how the file turns out. It's supposed to be a snug fit, so keep scaling until you get it like you want.
Tim Allen
Sr Member
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
Quick question regarding scaling
I am wanting to have a hockey goalie mask PEPed off of my original sculpt. The purpose for this is I want to be able to scale it up and down so that I may have mutiple sized molds of the original to fit different sized heads. My understanding from this thread is that large scaled 3D objects, such as armor, would have to be individually scaled for them to functionally work once printed out. Though a goalie mask is much smaller in scale and once a 3d file is created for pep could I scale it myself in pep since I would only need to increase/decrease the mask size in the file, in inches?
Thanks for the help in advance
-Tim
Quick question regarding scaling
I am wanting to have a hockey goalie mask PEPed off of my original sculpt. The purpose for this is I want to be able to scale it up and down so that I may have mutiple sized molds of the original to fit different sized heads. My understanding from this thread is that large scaled 3D objects, such as armor, would have to be individually scaled for them to functionally work once printed out. Though a goalie mask is much smaller in scale and once a 3d file is created for pep could I scale it myself in pep since I would only need to increase/decrease the mask size in the file, in inches?
Thanks for the help in advance
-Tim
Last edited:
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!
Yes.
It´s even easier, once you have the template, you can scale the template itself, either old school on a xerox machine or digitally via printer settings.
Yes.
It´s even easier, once you have the template, you can scale the template itself, either old school on a xerox machine or digitally via printer settings.
