The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

Not sure if this is where to ask this, but is there anybody that can make prints for me? I don't have a printer and need a few prints. I've got paypal and I'm in middle TN if you'd like to meet up. Be glad to pay for it. pm me
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

Greeting everyone I kinda need help with a Pepakura fold. I'm trying to build an Iron man Helmet. so I have some few questions.

!. When doing a valley fold do you glue that flap like the way you glue a mountain fold? I mean like its flat and flushed behind the connecting side?

2. Or do you glue the flaps of the valley fold like on the edge or tip of each other.

I've been having problems on the face plate and cheek connector does anybody have an unfinsihed faceplate pepakura pictures I want to see how it looks like or are there any threads here that shows a step by step construction of the Pepakura Folding of Iron man helmet? thank you
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

Pilot said:
Go to File --> Print and Paper Settings. You'll be able to specify paper size, parameters for the fold lines, and a few other widgets in there.

A4 is larger than US letter size. If you have a model that was unfolded for A4, you'll almost certainly have to spend a little time rearranging parts in the 2D window so they all fit on Letter. Conversely, most Letter-developed models fit just fine when you change them to print on A4.

Play with the settings, and use some regular printer paper to get everything adjusted so you're not wasting that valuable card stock.

Here's a screen shot of my settings window:

settings.png
Click to expand...

Ok so this has answered part of my question I was going to ask. My setting is on A4. I did have to re-arrange the pieces to fit.

I printed a test page and it looks to be the correct size, but how do I know for sure. Is there any chance it would have scaled down?
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

Nope, you're all set Xris. The scale will remain the same unless you change the settings in 2D Menu --> Change Scale. :)

jazz2slick - I generally try to keep the flaps underneath its joining piece, but if you read my "epiphany" on the previous page, you'll see I've finally come to the conclusion that it's not always necessary. Since the model is ultimately going to be slathered in chemicals anyway, the position of the flap is really sort of unimportant - unless it affects the way that the pieces fit together, which it sometimes can.

I haven't done a helmet yet, so I can't help you with that, but hopefully I've assisted a bit with your other question. :)
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

Pilot said:
Nope, you're all set Xris. The scale will remain the same unless you change the settings in 2D Menu --> Change Scale. :)

jazz2slick - I generally try to keep the flaps underneath its joining piece, but if you read my "epiphany" on the previous page, you'll see I've finally come to the conclusion that it's not always necessary. Since the model is ultimately going to be slathered in chemicals anyway, the position of the flap is really sort of unimportant - unless it affects the way that the pieces fit together, which it sometimes can.

I haven't done a helmet yet, so I can't help you with that, but hopefully I've assisted a bit with your other question. :)
Click to expand...


Actually what you've said was my first thought... but the thing is doing a helmet I think you have to be precise unlike other parts of the armour which are bigger bends so we got more leway on that. I already scrapped 2 pepakura IM face templates coz I cut them wrong and glued them wrong... But you know what they always say "3rd time's the charm" lol hopefully this time i can perfect it :) :lol
 
Pepakura for Macs?..

hey guys, just went to the Pepakura website to download the viewer so i can have a play around with iron man helmets and such, but its only designed for windows. i use a mac at work and have plenty of free time to do a bit of my own stuff and was looking forward to getting pepakura! anyone got a way around this, without installing parallels or using bootcamp? i'm not a fan of windows (after using it for all of my life up until a month ago haha)

no abusing the macs please, just after any info if possible..
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

Why not try VMWare and run a virtual session of Windows?
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

Vagabond said:
As for the links on the first page I'm glad to see that my pepakura wikia for star wars and other files made it. And familyman I have the files needed to make a complete Grevious just have'nt posted them onto the wikia yet.
Click to expand...

Any idea if and when you will be uploading them?.
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

im trying to unfold something for the first time and im having some issues with pepakura designer 3 full version

you know how you're able to pan and zoom and rotate in pep viewer? im not able to do that with this. is there a way i can do that? i cant pan or anything except to the center of the 3d or 2d window.

scaling. i figured out where to go for that, but some how this is in millimeters. does anyone know what is the go to number for 1:1 scale?

some things wont move when i drag them. whats the problem with that?
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

1) Zoom with the mouse wheel, pan by holding down both mouse buttons. If that doesn't work, then something's messed up with your installation.

2) Scaling 1:1 is directly related to the "physical" size of the original 3D model. If your model was ten feet tall in the modeling program, then that's how big it will be in Pepakura. There are 25.4mm (or 2.54cm) per inch, so you just have to do a little math to make the conversion.

3) If you can't move something in the 2D window, it's because you're trying to grab on to a fold tab or are just barely outside the lines of your piece. It took me a while to figure that out - you have to make sure you've got your mouse pointer inside the boundaries of the actual piece, and sometimes you have to zoom in a little to do it reliably.

Hope that helps a bit!
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

all those were VERY helpful!

however, i noticed when in the viewer, i can click the 3d model and turn the 3d model and rotate and move it all over and look at all angles, but i cant do that in the designer. i tried clicking both mouse buttons at once, and even pushing the scroll wheel but it pans and moves the figure in the postion its in.
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

Glad I was at least partially able to assist :)

That's strange and interesting behavior you're experiencing in the 3D window. I wish I had some more insight to give.
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

themanwoaname said:
all those were VERY helpful!

however, i noticed when in the viewer, i can click the 3d model and turn the 3d model and rotate and move it all over and look at all angles, but i cant do that in the designer. i tried clicking both mouse buttons at once, and even pushing the scroll wheel but it pans and moves the figure in the postion its in.
Click to expand...
In my experience it was always just 'hold right mouse button and drag' to rotate in 3d in the designer.
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

Sorry, I didn't see you mention that. I only have the designer and it lets me do it that way.

I looked and it doesn't look like there's anywhere to set the keys/mouse buttons for overall rotate functionality, even just to check current assignment.

I also looked to see if there was a config file to check/edit but I couldn't find anything.

Only other thing I could envision is that maybe it's your install?
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

thank you both for your help!

after reading it must be my install, i got angry with it because i didnt want to uninstall it and reinstall it(i dont have the code anymore), opened it up, went to the 3d model and clicked and dragged for a minute using the right button clicked(like you can in viewer) both(like it was recommended), and then with my left button clicked(just to see)

it turns out that the left mouse button can pan and drag and rotate and do everything i wanted it to do in the designer, that the right mouse button does in the viewer.

it doesnt make sense that it works that way, but if you were holding both down, you only need to hold the left one. its very uncomfortable and strange that its not the same as it is in pep viewer.

thanks again for everyone's help!

here's the file i was working on unfolding, i would like to get any input/techniques/tips on unfolding its a dr.doom mask by dung0beetle
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=3REEFUBC
 
Last edited:
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

Wasn't exactly sure where to drop this question, but hopefully someone can help me out. So I need to work on finishing a couple swords fast (1 weeks time) I have pepped and resin'd the 2 prince of Persia swords (Warrior within : eagle and lion). So I have their basic shapes but i would now need to add the details, ie. the Lion / eagle heads and the filigree all down the blade. I have natural argile clay and wanted to see if maybe there was a way to harden / secure details formed with this (uncured) by coating it in resin or the like. I can do good work, but at this point i need something that will work within my time-frame. If not this clay I'm okay with trying something else. Any suggestions?
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

if you can bake the clay use that, or you can use sculpey which you can bake/boil/use heat to harden.
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

themanwoaname said:
if you can bake the clay use that, or you can use sculpey which you can bake/boil/use heat to harden.
Click to expand...


Well that's the thing... the detail is all along the sword, I can hardly bake the clay. Basically i need something i can coat the sword with and carve out the detail and then paint on it (for the filigree) I could maybe bake clay for the figurines but a few problems arise: I don't know about how to apply the figures to the hilt of the sword, the finished dry pieces may not fit quite right on the non-flat hilt, and lastly I would be very limited if I just wanted to add a little thickness to the piece. Sorry to be difficult, but, any other ideas? :/
 
Re: The PEPAKURA resource and tech question thread - GO HERE FIRST!

you can put a layer of masking tape over the sword, spray pam or mold release over it, sculpt the clay on it, carefully remove the clay, bake, then use your adhesive of choice to secure it back to the sword.
 
This thread is more than 3 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.

Similar threads

Jp panta
Cosplay Boba Fett POST Sarlacc
Replies
0
Views
475
Jp panta
Jp panta
AdamCastanon07
Question about the Tasm 1 suit print file.
Replies
0
Views
260
AdamCastanon07
AdamCastanon07
AndrewBell3353
RUNESCAPE (FREE, RARE Pepakura & Foam Files)
Replies
13
Views
1,701
AndrewBell3353
AndrewBell3353
MitasTouch
Star Wars Jedi Survivor Cal Kestis Leather Vest
Replies
0
Views
636
MitasTouch
MitasTouch
B
I need another pair of eyes. Star Wars: Visions Ronin.
Replies
2
Views
947
BikerScout1599
B
Back
Top