Obi ANH Sabers: What do you have?

Yup... your ring looks great! Yeah, my other grenade has some slight surface rusting on it so part of the reason why I'm debating about cleaning it up is to help preserve it.

What I really want to know is how these grenades looked like when they came off the line from the factory; i.e. whether they were painted, left as raw steel or what... because from there we might be able to replicate the "look"... especially for us since we're now heading into the rainy season...
 
Yeah I left a hammer on my porch for a week last year in November, and when I went back out to get it, it was already covered in rust... it was a covered porch, the air is just always so friggin wet.
 
I'd strip it and talk to James about getting the proper look. His I believe has been dipped in old oil, etc. and in person looks fantastic.

OMG get ready for the search for the other two parts. .. the booster will be tough, as will the real balance pipe.

Yeah I've only seen the booster you won in the time I've looked... I'm patient though... they're out there.

I will have to hit up James about what he did when the time comes to making an decision... but I will be hitting YOU up first with some blaster build questions pretty quick here... if ya don't mind (time to get to some of these long sitting projects)
 
For the newer members who may not have seen my ANH Obi Sabers:

All three:
1 all 3.jpg
Front-to-back 1) All original parts 2) Roman's Empire parts 3) Cut-away

2 halves removed.jpg

3 reactor.jpg

4 Ion focus.jpg

5 Plasma Inject.jpg

6 beam focus.jpg

7 mandalorian crystal.jpg

8 Power on.jpg

9 Pointy end.jpg


ATL Kenobi
 
Can someone please tell (and if possible show) the difference between a parks mk3 and a romans mk3? Is one more accurate than the other? and if so how? I also noticed that no one really has the crimping on their balance pipe like there is on the prop. Is this because it's too hard to do?

Thanks
Sabs
 
Roman's is more accurate in almost all ways. The only thing that is on equal footing is the grenade.

The Parks pommel is one piece and based on the modern handwheel, so it's too big. Roman's is based on the correct one, but it should be noted that it's full metal instead of metal and plastic, plus the cap doesn't come off his new ones.

The Parks booster is completely wrong in shape and design and is basically just a pipe with three sections of grooves.

In regards to the crimping of the balance pipe, I don't think that's ever been confirmed that it was crimped and could just be glue or another trick of the camera. Speaking from experience with my real balance pipe, it would take quite a bit of pressure to crimp real inconel because it's a pretty strong material.
 
Since this thread has been revived, I don't feel bad bumping it up by saying ATL Kenobi, that is the coolest looking cutaway I've seen! I'm very jealous!
 
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If anyone has real Motorola transistors on their saber, can you explain how you installed them to your clamp, post a link to a thread, or pm me please? Thanks.
 
I bent the little wires poking out the transistors to lay in against the inside of the clamp and just glued the thing down. Being they're the only authentic piece on my Kenobi, I had no problem tinkering with them.
 
I've done both. The small ones are ceramic so drilling them out puts a lot of stress on a chuck/drill. Thats the best option IMO though.
After breaking my drill press this way, I pinched and JB Quicked them to my current real parts saber :)
 
What an incredible display stand as well. Can you tell us who made it?
Thanks Remote People!

The acrylic display case itself came from J Display Case. I don't recall the exact size but it's something like 6" x 6" x 14". The wood box sides were made from 1/4" x 3" walnut (I love walnut) similar to this from Rockler. This wood was mitered to fit the base of the display case. It was polished, lightly stained with walnut stain, and finished with 3 coats of high gloss polyurethane spray - sanding lightly between each coat. The base of the box is hard board and it holds the 2 amp power supply for the 5 watt LED, and the high voltage supply for the luminescent tubes. The display case is held to the wood box with SST carriage bolts.

There are 2 switches on the side of the case.
attachment.php

The one on the left turns the thing on and off. The one on the right is a 4 postion rotary switch which turns on the different lighting in succession. The knobs for the switches were made from TO5 transistors. The aluminum plate behind the swiches was scribed to simulate the markings on the graflex clamp.

ATL
 

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