x-wing drawings?

I was mainly referring to Flint's question about moulds. Of course they all have a common ancestor! :D

Yes, of course... But I was just thinking of the possibility that they created a fuselage top, struck a mold, and then re-created another for improvements... from which they took another mold. It's really hard to say ... You can't really assume they did things one way, because there are a number of counter-examples.

Isn't at least one noticeably shorter than the others ... I think red 2? It looks to me that it's shorter from the front of the canopy to the nose than the others. That difference would require a different master, or a scratch built upper...
 
And the 'Y'! - My friend, Nathan (who built thee Indy 'Mine Car'), & I are going over the logistics. I have access to a Very large roto-cast device (9 ftr), so I'm thinking it's a Go, but only if I can acquire (or draw myself) some desent plans.
A mistake in That scale would read as plain as a full scale Stop Sign, so it has to be 'Right' from the get-go.

And a 1/6 Y-wing!!!:cool Just curious, where would you display a 9 foot long Y-wing?

The only ship I've contemplated building in 1/6 scale is a Tie Fighter...:D
 
Guys, there are a couple of issues with the mesh created over top the images of Red 3. The first thing is I switched to using fractional inches and am getting some great measurements. For instance, if I set my units to 64th's and end up getting measurements that come out on the 16th or the 8th, I am confident that these measurements are correct. I know you guys who are not in the US are used to millimeters. If I switched to using millimeters, I would get decimals mixed in there, which would crop up anyway if you were to take a fuselage made from inches and measured it with millimeters. It's great to see a measurement come out to 3/8" when I have it set to 64ths, but if I used millimeters I would have to wrestle with decimals throughout. The likeliest explanation for this, as I saw with the Y Wing, is that the ILM model builders used fractional inches when they built the fuselage.

It all comes down to how 'precise' you want the measurements to be.

Which leads to the next issue.

There is enough distortion and warpage in the fuselage that some measurements cannot be pinned down exactly, and a decision has to be made on which measurements to use. For instance, the distance between two lines that are obviously supposed to be parallel - at either end the measurement should be the same. However, something like this could be off by 1/32.

I could continue surfacing the whole fuselage, and pass it on with warpage and all ... but then what would anyone do with it? It's very difficult as it is to open the Max file and take measurements in order to draw up plans to build your own X off of. Believe me it's very tedious - and my intention was to surface the mesh as much as I needed to take measurements and draw up plans/3D Cad for everyone to use.

As far as I see it, there are two types of variation we are seeing here. The first is the variation between the different studio models - say one is a little longer here, a little wider there, or the torpedo tubes are a little bit further forward one on than the others. The other type of variation is asymmetry, distortion, warpage, etc ... or, the subtle amounts that a model deviates from an ideal version of itself.

All I am trying to say is that there is enough warpage in this model and enough unknowns that the measurements cannot be pinned down "exactly." In other words, there is no "exactly" to speak of. We can speak of an ideal that the model builders had in mind when they built the things, but to try and derive that ideal from what we have to work with 33 years later is impossible to pin down "exactly" - but it can be within, say, 1/32 of an inch, or about a millimeter.

If you ask, "what is the width of the front edge of Red 3's canopy?", that can be found pretty reliably - it's 1 1/16", or, as has been pointed out, 27 mm. But other measurements don't have as straightforward an answer. If you ask, "What's the height from the mid-line, where the top and bottom fuselage meet, to the top surface of the fuselage aft of the canopy?", then the answer depends on where you measure. The difference between that measurement taken right behind the canopy and it taken all the way aft is as much as 1/32. Does this mean the thing tapers down by 1/32? Yes, in actuality the model does, but was it intended to? Is this just warpage?

The bottom line is that I don't think it's possible to get measurements as exact as some of you want them (like millimeters to 6 decimal places!!!). And even if we did, the thing would be so warped and distorted that it would be a nightmare to try and reproduce every imperfection. Not to mention you will introduce your own imperfections when you build.

It's not an exact science, and the best bet is for me to get as close to what appears to be the measurements intended by the builders and from that create drawings. The result can then be varied in the first way I mentioned above - moving the torpedo tubes around a bit, making a slightly longer nose, etc...

What are your thoughts?

P.S. Some of you are talking about things like, "in what way and by how much is Red A or Red B asymmetrical?" Do you really plan to build a fuselage and intentionally put this asymmetry in? And if so, why?
 
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NWerke and Colin, I see what you guys mean. Sorry, your posts got by me somehow and I didn't see them before.

The below Red 3 front view is useful, but it's not dead-on, so it's hard to tell whether it's symmetrical or not. It looks like it might have the same asymmetry as Red 5 but if so, it appears to be mirrored...

It could just be the image that is mirrored, or the film footage of Red 5 was flipped.
 
My apologies, but one more thing ... If the master was made out of a block of wood, then they probably made cuts by running it through a saw - maybe a band saw. If that's the case, then we could make some educated guesses about how the cuts - and in what order - they were made. This is something like what I did in the image I posted above. Doing things this way allows some measurements to just fall into place.
 
What I would like to see is T-65 X-wing Plans, ...rendered as if they were illustrated by the art dept. at Incom.
I don't care so much for accurate drawings of the movie props (regardless of their esteemed lineage), when in fact - they were built in a hurry & on a limited budget - I want to build from plans of the X-wing as if she were Real.
Well, ...isn't she?
 
FL, one of the 1976 ILM shop pics shows the buck for the lower hull. You may be right that it was just bandsawed off the original master, but it might equally have been a plaster casting or something like that. The mould for the upper hull was a single piece, though, so I'm not sure there would have been any other cuts.

I don't personally want to build a replica including accidental asymmetries. If the cockpit is offset to port, I want it back on the centreline, with the correct overall canopy and fuselage widths, but the angle of slope of the hull below the canopy "averaged".

Totally agree; working in inches makes good sense. If you can get dims to within 1/32", that's plenty good enough for me!

P.S. Heh, I would more than happily build a replica featuring the asymmetries if anyone ever offers pulls from the original bucks! Of course that would be a "private viewing only" affair, I suppose.
 
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Isn't at least one noticeably shorter than the others ... I think red 2? It looks to me that it's shorter from the front of the canopy to the nose than the others. That difference would require a different master, or a scratch built upper...


Red 2/Blue Leader is indeed shorter than the other but they didnt need a new mold. I compared 3 birds : Red Leader - Blue Leader/Red 2 - Red 3. Fuselage are identical (engraved lines match perfectly each other), the shape is nearly identical and if there is any difference about the shape is that's because the pull was removed too early from the molds (and the casting were really thing, about 2mm or so) so you know what happens when you remove a so long pull from the mold when it's not perfectly cured... warping etc...

As for Blue Leader/Red 2, the very front of the fuselage was just cut...
 
Flintlock, thanks for that amazing post and the great work you're doing. I agree with Martyn, I'm not dogmatic about reproducing the asymmetry or warpage either; I just think an in-depth analysis of the models has to take account of them in order to get as close as possible to the modelbuilders' intentions. Reckon you're going about it exactly right: noting and recording all the asymmetries and distortions, then ironing it out to the point that it becomes buildable, then adding back into it the more noticable deviations for each bird.

0.8mm should be ok - certainly in all the larger dimensions. I only hesitate slightly about some of the small stuff after the astonishing difference 2.6mm made to that canopy, but yes, go for it. After you've built the mesh, I presume you can rotate it and check it from all angles, right? So that in the unlikely event that 1/32 is too gross anywhere, you'd still be able to tweak it. (sorry, I'm a total ignoramus about these programs!)

Again, thanks so much this. Can't wait to see the results...

The Red 3 front-on pic isn't flipped. But neither was Red 5, judging by this pic, which shows the cockpit again shifted over to port...hmmm...(Gotta say, though, I really like that shallow, shallow slope of the starboard fuselage and canopy walls - be a shame to iron that out too much, heh, heh...)
 
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Ok, I completely re-did the upper rear part of the fuselage, and this time I ignored the Maxi-Brute completely. When I first started drawing X Wing plans, before Ray sent me the 3DS Max stuff, I was always bothered by this little ledge:

x_post_01.jpg


At first I made it 1/16" wide which, after measuring again, I found out was too wide. This morning when I re-did this part, I made it about 1/32" which, after comparing to photos, looked a little too narrow. Then I made some different measurements and let this measurement fall into place - it came out to be 3/64 or 1.5/32", or 1/64th less than 1/16". Now if you compare it to photos it looks right on:

x_post_02.jpg


The thing about this ledge though is that it's not parallel to the plane that separates the upper and lower fuselage. It actually goes like this:

x_post_03.jpg


This is probably about as close as I can get, and it looks to be right.

One thing that's going to keep me guessing for a while is this area:

x_post_04.jpg


It starts just about at the forward edge of the hole for the wings, and this is where the ledge starts tapering off to meet the hull again. This area is very strange and is probably the most perplexing area on the whole ship. But once I understand how the geometry goes it should be just a matter of measuring and figuring out how to recreate it in Alibre.

I'll need to do some surfacing with the Max file Ray sent me for the bottom of the hull, but the geometry there is fairly simple...

Oh, one more thing about the 'trench' that the R2 detail strip goes in. It actually tapers a little bit - at the top it is 1 1/64" and at the bottom it is 63/64". Instead of re-create this taper, which would have required me to go down to 1/128" in the CAD program, I just went with 1". To me this taper is not significant enough to re-create it, and since it is so consistent on either side of the trench, it leads me to believe it is an artifact of the saw they ran it through... I can't see them wanting to make this taper, and then doing it by hand and actually getting it so precise.
 
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I've always said that if you want to figure out the dimensions of "ILM" models you need to use the Imperial measurement system as this is what they used in the day.

I can't stand the metric system!! :angry I hate it, I loathe it and refuse to use it EVER. OK rant over with... :lol

Guys, there are a couple of issues with the mesh created over top the images of Red 3. The first thing is I switched to using fractional inches and am getting some great measurements. For instance, if I set my units to 64th's and end up getting measurements that come out on the 16th or the 8th, I am confident that these measurements are correct. I know you guys who are not in the US are used to millimeters. If I switched to using millimeters, I would get decimals mixed in there, which would crop up anyway if you were to take a fuselage made from inches and measured it with millimeters. It's great to see a measurement come out to 3/8" when I have it set to 64ths, but if I used millimeters I would have to wrestle with decimals throughout. The likeliest explanation for this, as I saw with the Y Wing, is that the ILM model builders used fractional inches when they built the fuselage.

It all comes down to how 'precise' you want the measurements to be.

Which leads to the next issue.

There is enough distortion and warpage in the fuselage that some measurements cannot be pinned down exactly, and a decision has to be made on which measurements to use. For instance, the distance between two lines that are obviously supposed to be parallel - at either end the measurement should be the same. However, something like this could be off by 1/32.

I could continue surfacing the whole fuselage, and pass it on with warpage and all ... but then what would anyone do with it? It's very difficult as it is to open the Max file and take measurements in order to draw up plans to build your own X off of. Believe me it's very tedious - and my intention was to surface the mesh as much as I needed to take measurements and draw up plans/3D Cad for everyone to use.

As far as I see it, there are two types of variation we are seeing here. The first is the variation between the different studio models - say one is a little longer here, a little wider there, or the torpedo tubes are a little bit further forward one on than the others. The other type of variation is asymmetry, distortion, warpage, etc ... or, the subtle amounts that a model deviates from an ideal version of itself.

All I am trying to say is that there is enough warpage in this model and enough unknowns that the measurements cannot be pinned down "exactly." In other words, there is no "exactly" to speak of. We can speak of an ideal that the model builders had in mind when they built the things, but to try and derive that ideal from what we have to work with 33 years later is impossible to pin down "exactly" - but it can be within, say, 1/32 of an inch, or about a millimeter.

If you ask, "what is the width of the front edge of Red 3's canopy?", that can be found pretty reliably - it's 1 1/16", or, as has been pointed out, 27 mm. But other measurements don't have as straightforward an answer. If you ask, "What's the height from the mid-line, where the top and bottom fuselage meet, to the top surface of the fuselage aft of the canopy?", then the answer depends on where you measure. The difference between that measurement taken right behind the canopy and it taken all the way aft is as much as 1/32. Does this mean the thing tapers down by 1/32? Yes, in actuality the model does, but was it intended to? Is this just warpage?

The bottom line is that I don't think it's possible to get measurements as exact as some of you want them (like millimeters to 6 decimal places!!!). And even if we did, the thing would be so warped and distorted that it would be a nightmare to try and reproduce every imperfection. Not to mention you will introduce your own imperfections when you build.

It's not an exact science, and the best bet is for me to get as close to what appears to be the measurements intended by the builders and from that create drawings. The result can then be varied in the first way I mentioned above - moving the torpedo tubes around a bit, making a slightly longer nose, etc...

What are your thoughts?

P.S. Some of you are talking about things like, "in what way and by how much is Red A or Red B asymmetrical?" Do you really plan to build a fuselage and intentionally put this asymmetry in? And if so, why?
 
You're doing a man's job there, Flintlock.

That ledge looks right, and I agree about ditching the minute taper on the droidstrip.

As you head into the cockpit zone... yep, things get very complicated indeed. But our prayers go with you. You can do it.
 
You're doing a man's job there, Flintlock.

That ledge looks right, and I agree about ditching the minute taper on the droidstrip.

As you head into the cockpit zone... yep, things get very complicated indeed. But our prayers go with you. You can do it.

Thanks. I had an idea about how to get it right... Working on that now... think it will work.
 
Oh, one more thing about the 'trench' that the R2 detail strip goes in. It actually tapers a little bit - at the top it is 1 1/64" and at the bottom it is 63/64". Instead of re-create this taper, which would have required me to go down to 1/128" in the CAD program, I just went with 1". To me this taper is not significant enough to re-create it, and since it is so consistent on either side of the trench, it leads me to believe it is an artifact of the saw they ran it through... I can't see them wanting to make this taper, and then doing it by hand and actually getting it so precise.

I think you need to be a bit cautious about this. I totally agree that the working measurements were almost certainly fractional inches, but the patterns were so heavily worked over that rounding back to what the original measurements probably were puts you in danger of losing too much of the character of the final model.

Taking the trench as an example, whilst the original intention was almost certainly to have an inch wide slot, the sidewalls are actually inclined by an average* of six or seven degrees - about a nine in one slope - and this can be seen fairly clearly on rear views of the miniatures (*in actual fact, the starboard slope is considerably greater than the port slope).

Here, for example, I did a quick (and ugly looking) render of my old model, which doesn't have the taper, to try and show what I mean:

tapers.jpg


As Colin Droidmilk has said, this sort of thing probably seems like nit-picking to many, but I think that having the slot walls vertical just looks wrong.
 
I think you need to be a bit cautious about this. I totally agree that the working measurements were almost certainly fractional inches, but the patterns were so heavily worked over that rounding back to what the original measurements probably were puts you in danger of losing too much of the character of the final model.

Taking the trench as an example, whilst the original intention was almost certainly to have an inch wide slot, the sidewalls are actually inclined by an average* of six or seven degrees - about a nine in one slope - and this can be seen fairly clearly on rear views of the miniatures (*in actual fact, the starboard slope is considerably greater than the port slope).

Here, for example, I did a quick (and ugly looking) render of my old model, which doesn't have the taper, to try and show what I mean:

As Colin Droidmilk has said, this sort of thing probably seems like nit-picking to many, but I think that having the slot walls vertical just looks wrong.

Yes Ray, having a perfectly straight and clean model doesn't look right simply because the actual objects are not perfectly straight and clean. These kinds of deviations from ideal - creating that 'handmade' look can be put in when an actual model is made (by hand). That's how these errors crept in to begin with. As I mentioned before, you can enumerate all of these little imperfections and try to put them in, but when your talking about the difference of 1/64th - that's what I get from what you handed me - the width of a razor saw blade! - how are you going to reproduce this? And why would you want to? It doesn't matter how many little imperfections you match up to the original - there will always be some you miss, and there will be some you introduce on your own (and thereby taking it ever so slightly away from 'perfectly correct').

And also, as I mentioned before, do you think the ILMers said to themselves that they want a trench that tapers by 1/64th of an inch on each side? Even if this is what they wanted, and it makes no sense they would want that, how could they have put something so minute in by hand? It's more likely this is just an incidental imperfection...

What I am trying to get at is what was intended, as closely as I can, and I find it hard to believe that such an almost infinitesimal detail was intended by the ILM model builders. It would serve no purpose at all.

However, Ray, if you are wanting to make a 3D representation of Red 3 based on these photos - and have it be only a 3D model to be rendered - then I see how it would make sense to get everything just right. In the digital world it's indeed possible, but I am terribly skeptical about doing that with any success in a physical model.
 
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It's a trick: deciding which of the imperfections are ignorable and which are going to count...

The Red 5 asymmetry thing, for instance - which affects the entire fuselage cross-section around the cockpit, not just the cockpit. If it really is as extreme on all the heroes as it is on Red 5, - and Red 1 looks whacked out even in the top view - it means that our 'buildable symmetrical version' will have fuselage sidewalls at different angles to those on all the hero Xs, and as a result it just might look too different.... I hope not, but it'll be very interesting to see how it all pans out...

Ray, that model looks amazing.
 
When I get a good amount of the fuselage finished we can compare with photos to see how out of whack they are. I'll have to check the export capabilities of Alibre, but maybe I can load up an STL file in Max and lay it over top the photos of Red 3.

I understand your concerns and value everyone's opinion, and I would be willing to do this for everyone if that's what they want... yet I can't say I understand why anyone would want to build an asymmetrical model on purpose just to get 'closer' to the original prop. If you have such an intimate knowledge of the flaws of these X wings and you build one, you will always be aware of the flaws you could not reproduce and those you have introduced yourself - you will always know your replica is not the real thing.

I am not saying that working like this is wrong, just that I have a bit of a different philosophy about it. If I can make a straighter, truer X Wing then I have done a better job at building a model than ILM did. Reproducing the 'essence' of the X Wing is one thing - something both the ILMers tried and I will try. But reproducing all the flaws that were never really meant to be there in the first place seems too much to me like you're trying to fool people into believing that your replica is the real thing. But you will always know it's not the real prop. I can enumerate so many ways in which your attempt might stray from what you're trying to achieve, especially if we're talking differences of 1/64th.

Again, I'm not saying my way is better - just different. And I will try my best to put in asymmetries and imperfections for you guys if that's what you want. Also understand that some can be put in intentionally when you build - like there appears to be a lot of edges that started sharp and were rounded off with sandpaper - perhaps in the master or in the castings. These can be done just by looking at photos and trying to get it right. I'll try to point out some of these areas but you guys have probably already seen them.
 
Quite likely the asymmetries and imperfections can be left out. And I certainly don't want to press for their inclusion when others are looking for straight, buildable plans. I was just musing really in my last post on what is hopefully just an academic point and unlikely scenario - that the unintended asymmetry is now an integral function of how the models look from all angles, not just the front view, and that once corrected, the character of the ship from some angles just possibly might end up at too great a variance from the originals. But as I said, it's probably not likely. And of course, you should work according to your own philosophy ( how can anyone be expected to work otherwise, in anything?).

Again, I'm thrilled by how this is going forward...
 
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