A "Gun Blued" MR Elite Han Solo Blaster

BlasterManiac

BlasterManiac

Well-Known Member
So,
I had posted the other day (a few days ago) one of my two Han Solo Blasters.
Specifically on the MR Elite one, I really, always disliked the finish. I had replaced the scope with a real one, in pretty bad finish shape, and I had always wanted to have it redone by an armorer. But I wanted the pistol itself as well to be redone.

I had given it a lot of thinking, in time. Then I decided to do it by myself: Gun Blue (Perma Blue) products.
Not bad I'd say. I sanded everything down. Almost everything.
The scope completely (and now it's got that nice blue finish, as it's real steel).
And most of the pistol has been sanded, too.
Here's the finished result. I like it a lot better. It's not completely satisfying yet. Maybe I have to weather it better in some parts. Actually, this one is not weathered at all now that I applied the Blue finish.
It's a chemical process, simply: sand the metal to its original state, clean it well with a specific product and then, apply the Perma Blue thing. There will be a chemical reaction with the metal (Perma Blue it's NOT paint: it's a water-like liquid) and - in a few iterations - the metal will finally assume that real steel blue finish that I like so much.

I think it's got a more realistic "real steel" weapon look in fact, now.

Don't you think?

Thanks for looking!

BM
3687760296_a96dc658fe_b.jpg


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3687340967_12e2d466dc_b.jpg
 
I like it. I like it A LOT. :thumbsup :thumbsup

/not a SW blaster guy/no idea if screen-accurate
 
That is beautiful. The blueing, and the inherent imperfections, add so much. Incredible job. Using cold blue for an entire piece can be difficult, but you did a great job. Your blaster looks so real that I would leave it, no "used" gun retains perfect bluing after being in the field.

Congratulations...you've raised the bar IMHO. :thumbsup
 
Thank you guys!
Appreciate your appreciation.
One day of work.

Answers:

- I had to disassemble the pistol as much as I could to sand all the individual parts.
Sanding it well does really the trick here, just - I suppose - as it would be done professionally by an armorer (input appreciated).

- Once the sanding was done, I had to "degrease and cleanse" with one of the three product bottles included in the package I bought (Birchwood Casey "Complete Perma Blue" Liquid Gun Blue Kit" (ebay)).

- Once the cleansing was done (follow detailed instruction in the booklet provided) I was ready for blueing.
Blueing consisted "simply" in applying the liquid (room temperature) on the pistol, doing several iterations to give it the black/blue look you see in the picture.
Really as simple as that. I didn't expect really it'd be that easy. This was supposed to be a test. I really couldn't see this gun anymore with the original paint on it.

;)
 
And this is how it looked prior to the blueing.
Note that the scope is an original, old thing similar to the screen used.
In bad shape as you can see (please compare how it came out with the blueing).
The gun was in the original condition (paint) as per MR, plus some pathetic weathering of mine.
Camera used here makes things look better. A Canon 1DsMkIII with a prime lens, 50mm f/1.4 (focus is on the body, scope is blurred intentionally)

3687562439_5165d7dab7_b.jpg
 
Nice going so far.

Few things I'd add, IMHO, that would add to what you've achieved so far:
1- get rid of the copyright- it detracts.
2- scape up the grips as shown in the Chronicle photos- they look too new as the rest is weathered.
3- stamp some serial numbers on it as would be found on German made C96 (3/32" set is what I bought).
4- the hammer and bolt should be bare steel: "in the white" (can be seen if you look at some photos- don't have them right now to post)
5- once the bolt is buffed up, just use a blue marker to "blue" the extractor- quick pass with pen, then wipe it off.


And the easiest way to remove the powder coating is to use acetone (with gloves).
Put dis-assemble parts into plastic snap lid container.
Wait a few hours, and scrub it off with nylon or brass brush.
Repeat as needed.
Don't let it stay in there too long- even snapfit lids will evaporate, and the missing acetone will redeposit the floating bits of powder coating back onto the Zaymac. Works like a charm.
 
Last edited:
excellent blaster. If I wasn't such a wimp I would do that to mine too.

Not only do you have an excellent blaster you've got one heck of a camera!
I just came back from taking firework pictures sportin' the 5dmkII with a 16-35 L.

Congrats on both your amazing toys :love
 
Thanks everyone for your appreciation.

The suggestion regarding acetone was priceless. IF only I had known, my hands wouldn't be hurtin' right now.

Thanks,


BM
 
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