New MR Enterprise problem over time (Dome blotching)

And here are some images taken of the port nacelle as of Thursday December 9, 2010.

Nacelle-oil-leak-front.jpg


Nacelle-oil-leak-side.jpg


Yep, looks very similar to my port dome, Artman. The transition from frosting to oil-slick is somewhat more subtle on mine, but give it some time. Like i said, I just took mine out of the box last week. You know, it probably wouldn't look all that bad if it just went all the way and lost ALL the frosting. The thing is, the frosting has not been removed, I would think, it's just... coated with suntan oil.

Here's to hoping at least that the lights never go out or the motors don't stop rotating. :unsure
 
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Wow after seeing those photos I looked at mine which is high up on a shelf. The starboard side (which faces out) is perfect but the port side which is hard to see is about 40% covered which is WAY more then last time I looked. Strange how it seems to be the one side. Does it seem to be on everyones port side? Perhaps Steve can shed some light on the problem.
 
I guess they just over lubricated things or whomever they got their gearboxes from did, odd that it is able to seep out to the dome.

All I can think is to work your way around the joining gap with a very sharp and fine exacto blade and try to pop that sucker off very carefully.

Assuming it can even be cleaned off at this point. It may not.

Or get some Testors dull coat and nuke it in hopes it masks it down. Of course you have to do both domes so they will match.

Though we should be able to test that theory on something else.


I wonder if it could be some bad chemical interaction between the paint, glue, plastic of the nacelle with the dome material?

Though you would expect both domes to suffer if that were the case.
 
that blotching looks like the kind of thing you get from the fumes of superglue. I'm just wandering what they used as lubricant inside the nacelle?
 
That whole engine assembly should have been removable.

Perfect spot on the front of those nacelles to twist-lock them on/off the front.

Too bad. Cost considerations I am sure.

We did a lot of things on the licensed B9s to ensure longevity, but I still have nightmares that ten years from now, I'll be flying to someplace fixing a B9.
 
question for you guys? is the outside a matt finish too....if so get some fine scotchbright and going in small circles, frost it. if you are going to cut it off, do not use an exacto, blade thickness is too wide, use a razor or photoetched fine toothed saw blade... I have this

JLC Ultra-Fine Razor Saw

Will

The outside does look matte. My impression is that if you abraded/sanded the outside of the dome it would become very white. Not sure how that would look. You would not be able to see the lines.

A crazy idea I had was to drill a tiny hole somewhere on the dome and inject lubricant into the dome. Shake (don't bake). Then drain if possible. Fill the hole. Voila, no more frosting but no more blotchiness either; you have a consistent finish to the dome. In theory. Of course I would not be so bold as to try it myself. :eek
 
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The outside does look matte. My impression is that if you abraded/sanded the outside of the dome it would become very white. Not sure how that would look.

A crazy idea I had was to drill a tiny hole somewhere on the dome and inject lubricant into it so that it floods the dome. Then drain it. Voila, no more blotchiness; you have a consistent finish to the dome. Crazy theory, no? :eek

Well yes, you would have a consistent finish I suppose but you would then have to do the same to the other, as yet, unaffected side . . . and then there would be the holes from the drilling to contend with. Sounds like a delicate operation with the potential for unforeseen complications to arise. It's a damned shame we don't have a wrecked one to experiment upon, one like my first replacement was. I think someone did an Ace Ventura on it; it was busted up pretty bad when I lifted it reverently out of the box. Still if we could get our hands on one of those numerous rejects (and I'm pretty sure there are a lot of them) we would have our perfect Guiney pigs upon which to begin our experimentations:love

This would be where what's left of "Master Replica" or whomever is still attempting to sell these models might actually be of help to us here on the RPF. Rather than offering words and condolences they could actually help us find a solution (if there are any to be found) to the various issues this model seems to be cursed with. Send us the wrecks to operate upon.

By the way, looking at some older photos I took of my first MR -E I saw this.

Nacelle-Green-side-of-ship.jpg


This is on the Starboard nacelle . . . so it looks like that side of the equation is not immune to this blotching conundrum either. Perhaps given enough time it will all work itself out with one big blotch and we'd have our consistent finish back on both sides. Yes, yes I know, in my dreams. The Curse of the MR-E continues.
 
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mr master replicas uss enterprise

I just aqquired this model and can't get power to the ship from the base tube I don't know the connection set up between the base tube and the ship and the previous owner didn't have any info on it. I found a small metal tube with a spring over it which I think is part of the connection. Could use a picture or info on how this connection is made. Would love to see this lit up. Thanks, Mike
 
Re: mr master replicas uss enterprise

I assume the "metal tube" is the electrical jack, it should have been installed on top of the black tube and the whole ship plugs into it.

If it was loose from the base tube, the it's been broken off.

Pics would help.
 
Re: mr master replicas uss enterprise

I just aqquired this model and can't get power to the ship from the base tube I don't know the connection set up between the base tube and the ship and the previous owner didn't have any info on it. I found a small metal tube with a spring over it which I think is part of the connection. Could use a picture or info on how this connection is made. Would love to see this lit up. Thanks, Mike

Not sure how to help with that, Mike, but if at all possible I would return it for a refund, pronto. These ships can be found on Ebay relatively frequently, some of them in new and unopened condition. If you get one with a problem right off the bat, it's best to return it if you can. Ideally, paying with a credit card offers the best protection for you as a buyer.
 
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Should look like this.

I think the electrical jack will unscrew from the tube.

You can see how far into the model the tube goes from the scratch marks.


IMG_8513.jpg
 
That connection sucks!!!! :angry
My MR only comes on if if you move the ship around a bit and then only stays on for about 20Sec and then dies. I have tried everything to fix that connection (without cutting the ship apart and replacing the connector altogether). I have no idea what they were thinking using that headphone jack as a power connector.
 
Actually I think it's a great idea and I have used it on several other models and it works great on all of them. The problem on the MR E is the female connector inside. Apparently it is secured only by glue of some sort. Multiple times of removing the E on some have loosened the female glue connection and caused problems and shorting out of the wires attached to it. As far as I know there have been no problems with the male plug part of the design. Good concept poorly executed.
 
I'm glad I found this thread as now i know to avoid this thing. Are all MR products this full of problems?

I would say no.


I have the Tricorder, Comm, Phaser, Klingon disruptor, assault Phaser and they are all great and trouble free.

My ship despite the blotching and a rough area here and there is still a prized possession.

Though the first one they sent me had to be returned as the bridge light was out.
 
I sold my MR TOS E because of all of this nonsense... I heard the announcement of the 1/350 kit, and figured that the aftermarket parts would be of superior quality to the electronics long term life over MR's. Now that kit is in question, and I'm feeling a bit like I jumped too soon. I see this thread and realize I made the right move. I had two of them, the first arrived with one nacelle DOA, and not working at all. MR reshipped, sent me the SE to make up for it, and the model still had major issues. (decals instead of the correct markings, overspray on the upper hull/major goofy smudges in the finish). In MR's defense, this project was wildly ambitious, and the cost, even as high as it was, was ridiculously low for something this size. They cut corners, etc., but it still looked great out of the box. Long term, different story. I invested in the presale of the smaller CR model, which turned out to be a bust. Who knows the real story there, but I was totally deflated by it! My hopes are still that Polar will do their kit, and it will rock beyond all of our expectations, and the MR models with be a fond memory.

KK
 
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I sold my MR TOS E because of all of this nonsense... I heard the announcement of the 1/350 kit, and figured that the aftermarket parts would be of superior quality to the electronics long term life that MR's. Now that kit is in question, and I'm feeling a bit like I jumped too soon. I see this thread and realize I made the right move. I had two of them, the first arrived with one nacelle DOA, and not working at all. MR reshipped, sent me the SE to make up for it, and the model still had major issues. (decals instead of the correct markings, overspray on the upper hull/major goofy smudges in the finish). In MR's defense, this project was wildly ambitious, and the cost, even as high as it was, was ridiculously low for something this size. They cut corners, etc., but it still looked great out of the box. Long term, different story. I invested in the presale of the smallerCR model, which turned out to be a bust. Who knows the real story there, but I was totally deflated by it! The second time Jim Key blew it for me. My hopes are still that Polar will do their kit, and it will rock beyond all of our expectations, and the MR models with be a fond memory.

KK

Well, I'm not an experienced modeler, so the MR E still remains my best and only choice--despite its drawbacks. To have a kit built and painted by a professional to match the refinement of the MR I'm sure would cost in the several thousands. Maybe I'm wrong but even for experienced modelers i can't imagine equaling the MR replica, even with its flaws; I think it would take an *exceptional* craftsman to do that. (Maybe many of you are that, I don't know. I just know I'm not.) For one thing, I doubt that a PL kit would include a metal "skeleton," not to mention the quality of application of the markings and the rotating bussards (when they do work; and as of yet I have no problems with electrical).
 
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Nothing that cant be reproduced by a good craftsman....

Show me the money...

So, you think you can match the quality of the MR finish and markings and overall refinement and illumination and bussard spinners and structural skeleton?

OK, good for you.

Look, with all due respect, I'm sure a "good craftsman" *can*, but how many will succeed? And at what price and what amount of time, resources, repeated attempts, blood, sweat and... yes, tears? Count me out of that elite group.
 
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