Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION

You know that extra hole you now have in the back gives you a perfect opportunity to add a mounting pole through to the internal support. Properly placed you could mount it to a wall in your house then it would look like it is floating in your living room. Would take up ZERO floor space. This would be particularly cool if you have vaulted ceilings in your house.
 
You know that extra hole you now have in the back gives you a perfect opportunity to add a mounting pole through to the internal support. Properly placed you could mount it to a wall in your house then it would look like it is floating in your living room. Would take up ZERO floor space. This would be particularly cool if you have vaulted ceilings in your house.


I even went so far at to get a T-couple in the 1" lead pipe, which would be installed in the main length of pipe in the lower dome.

I got the T-coupling in case I need to route a power cord out of the pipe, but it could be usd as described as an alternate mounting method.
 
Guys I'm getting close to one of the biggest challenges. What at first may seem simple, is vexing me - that is to recreate the surface "texture" of the original model.

In concept, it appears basic - a black and white fleck pattern over a base grey. But how to do it without driving myself nuts...?

The hole for the screw is abut 1/4"

Texture001.jpg
 
Well,I know that Aztek airbrush has a number of different tips,one is a "spattering tip",or I guess you could make up some "thinned" paint and load it ona tooth brush and flick paint on it?Remove the excess in a practice sheet until you get the desired effect?
 
Well,I know that Aztek airbrush has a number of different tips,one is a "spattering tip",or I guess you could make up some "thinned" paint and load it ona tooth brush and flick paint on it?Remove the excess in a practice sheet until you get the desired effect?

Good idea, and I appreciate your input - however your post represents how this at first seems simple but really isn't.

Consider the surface area - its huge, and intricately masked. I don't want to:
--Use an air brush requiring multiple set-up phases (connecting a compressor, loading paint, cleaning, etc)
--Make multiple passes with various colors
--Use a random and difficult-to-control technique (like flicking paint from a tooth brush)
--Use a technique that does not generate easily reproducible results

The easiest answer would be that fake granite paint out of a spray can, BUT that leaves a considerably bumpy texture, which is not acceptable.
 
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Oh, and if you feel this would be too small for the job at hand, improvise. Get a stiff bristled dustpan broom, and scrape/flick it with a length of steel rod.


I've also gotten the same effect by using spray paint held several feet directly above the piece so the droplets flutter down and make specks.
 
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Use an old toothbrush. Run your thumb over the paint filled bristles. With the speckle granite paint you could always level the surface with a few coats of flat lacqure.
 
My guess is they sprayed it on with that kind of surface area. There are spatter attachments for the kind of commercial sprayers they use in most shops.

You can either find someone with similar gear, or you might want to test the black and white version of this:



on some scrap to see how it turns out.
 
Rattle can for sure Beaz, hit it from about three to four feet away, letting only fine particles settle...this does work very well Rob, its quick effective...and stress free :lol

lee
 
Don't use an airbrush, use a car type spray gun.

A combination of paint type, thickness and air pressure can achieve a spatter paint job with no real texture.

There is a reference book that calls out pressure, paint viscosity and paint type to achieve mil spec textures and patterns. I used to have a copy of it but when I left the model shop to go into sales, it got left behind. It really wasn't mine anyway. But it was an invaluable source when doing Government projects.
 
i second the rattle can method but none of that textured stuff. ive been using the rattle cans on my recent droid head paint ups.

i would hit it from about 2 feet away. try it and see on a piece of scrap. just short bursts. you can build it up slowly that way.

check the top of this cz head, i used a dark grey metallic rattle can and some tamiya buff to tone it down

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v689/zorg-industries/?action=view&current=cz6.jpg



-z
 
Big day - got the lights in and finished the support structure for the lower dome.

I used open/loose bulb sockets that I could screw down into the wood, and tapped them into a ight to medium duty indoor extension cord. Then I tapped in a large, chunky switch to mount at the rear of the base.

With the bulb sockets, I installed four - two facing up for the upper dome, and two facing out for the lower (could not face them down due to clearance issues. I installed four. If that is too many, I'll just leave one or two empty. Also, I can choose any bulb I want - incandescent, compact flourescent, variable wattage, etcetera.

In addition, I added the angled struts in the pics. These will help transfer any weight pressure applied to the outer rim down to the robust central supprot - the lead pipe.

Finally there are two added vertical struts fromt he inside of the south pole up to the underside of the cog wheel hub. This is in case I picked the whole rig up by placing my palms where "Antarctica" would be; the vertical struts will transfer energy away from the acrylic on up to the central support system, preventing damage to the acrylic at the bottom of the model.
 
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I agree on the rattle cans. I've used the 3-4 foot away from subject method many times to achieve that very look you are striving for. With a tiny bit of practice, you should be very happy with your results. Practice on a round object so you can get the feel of staying the same distance away from the globe as you paint. That takes practice.

Dave :)
 
OK squids... New challenge...

In the pic you see the 9" dish the fabricator made for me.

TOO BIG. Needs to be 8".

As you can see, I started grinding it down using 60 grit paper glued to a flat board.

BUT...

The plastic is thinner on one side of the dish than the other due to how the acrylic gets thinner towards the poles/apex of the domes (based on the manufacturing process). So I'm not sure that simply grinding it down in this method will work.

I was thinking about using the Dremel to cut it down to about 8.25" then grinding/sanding it from there...

Input? Insight? Should I just take it back to the fabricator?

DS111808001.jpg
 
Is the difference in thickness only visible on the edge?
If so only the inside will show when it's in place.

Unless the inside is out of round.

Rob
 
Agree with Julien, vacform it for a better edge profile, that acrylic does look a bit wonky donkey!
Loving this build, that lighting is quality, what a piece to have!

lee
 

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