Revisiting the Training Remote

Thanks Frank

Just a quick note to everybody, so you don't make the same mistake as I did.

Franks method is spotless, as long as you cut the rings from a flat piece of styrene, because of the warping of the part, when fitted to the hemisphere surface.

However, if you cut the rings from a vacformed styrene-pull, like me, then the method and meaurements are no good, since, the parts will have no additional warping, which means that an inner diameter of 23mm and an outer diameter of 46mm is of course to small.

I'm cutting new (and hopefully correct :D ) rings at the moment. Once I have those cut, and verified the measurements, I'll post pics and measurements.

46mm ring....cut in the middle, spread apart by 7mm = 53mm Which is Ballpark, just like the article says. (They end up being closer to 55/56 dont ask me while its a FLAT thing glued on a ROUND thing mystery, which is why I suggest the vacuum formed version)

I'll edit it to make it more clear because I can understand the confusion.
Any other suggestions for the tutorial are also welcome.

;-)

Frank
 
That would be great, thanks for sharing the vac pulled measurements as I am planning to do pulls as well. Btw, how did you cut those perfect circles in your pull?
 
I have a little staycation for a few days. Made some progress.
I'm just soo damn glad those circles are done.
Just a few more pieces to glue on. Then a few layers of paint, sand, repeat.


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I have a little staycation for a few days. Made some progress.
I'm just soo damn glad those circles are done.
Just a few more pieces to glue on. Then a few layers of paint, sand, repeat.


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feab446318057759aac5ba75bf9a7477.jpg


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Looks great

Be sure to remove those marker-lines before you start the paintingproces, or you might be in for an unpleasant surprise. Believe me, I speak of experience :-/
 
Always nice to see another remote. Looks great.

The rims that came with Frank's old kit are chromed just like the kit parts, which I believe is some sort of electroplating. I noticed the chrome finish is much more perfect than what we find on the kit parts.
 
made these struts for the inside.

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a little more sanding, then will be ready for some paint.
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nighteyes,
what specifically happened in the areas of black marker lines? difficult to cover up?
 
I only used pencil on mine but I'd imagine a little rubbing alcohol before any paint would remove the exposed ink without disturbing the glued on parts.
 
I only used pencil on mine but I'd imagine a little rubbing alcohol before any paint would remove the exposed ink without disturbing the glued on parts.

I actually did that, and the lines still bled through .... I've experienced the same with pencillines .. so in the future I'll only use a soft 4b'ish pencil that's easy to erase before the primer
 
Wow, even the pencil came through? I used a plastic primer that matched Floquil Reefer White and have had no trouble.

I use the 95% rubbing alcohol to remove old sharpie, and will often brush or wipe it over models before their first coat of paint/primer.

I'm weathering my own to match the original spot for spot. It displays nice but its not even close to finished.
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Recipe for a great vintage Ben Kenobi:

General Madine Head
Anakin Skywalker body
Luke Jedi Cloak

The heads use the same torso peg style so it's an easy swap.
 
these look great! Definitely on my to do list of props (about 7 pages long now).

This may be, no, IS, a stupid question, but I'm going to ask it anyway...

What is the diameter of the globe itself? I looked in this thread, others, and GOOGLED the crap out of this, and I cannot get a straight answer. Help??
 
I had a little more time to work on my remote. Did some priming then used some milliput on the seam. Then tons of sanding. Milliput is some great stuff. Very workable. Dries slowly. No nasty fumes.

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Now for another layer of primer then more sanding I think. Need to remake the rectangles for the equator.
 
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