Experience with large-scale use of DAP Kwik-seal kitchen & bath adhesive caulk (clear

Hello,

For sealing my EVA foam on my upcoming Iron Giant I’d like to use this for sealing at least, and possibly also mix it with a tint (such as those used with latex paints) on a 2nd coat for paint job.

I’ve brief experience using this to fix cracks in foam only. I expect to use disposable gloves and finger-smear some as follow up if brushing it on?

Here is a progress shot of my Iron Giant, for use this Halloween. Loads of work before painting stage, but want to get the method lined up in advance.

Any tips on applying this to heat-sealed EVA would be appreciated, thanks!

Re: Experience with large-scale use of DAP Kwik-seal kitchen & bath adhesive caulk (c

You can get Flex Bond (or other PVA glues ) and a Critter Gun and spray coat it.

Also plasti-dip spray paint work well on foam and you can probably find a good metallic color

just prime it black and then apply your silver/steel gray

- just do it enough in advance of halloween you have plenty of dry time so the fumes are gone before you put the helmet on for a long time.

Re: Experience with large-scale use of DAP Kwik-seal kitchen & bath adhesive caulk (c

Thanks, but I'm looking for user experience with this specific product, not other methods.

I've used plasti-dip but would prefer to avoid the high cost and toxity of it. I've also painted on standard low-emission primer and followed with spray paint.

Re: Experience with large-scale use of DAP Kwik-seal kitchen & bath adhesive caulk (c

I've done some testing, and concluded it isn't suitable for use on something with a lot of edges that are bound to get scratched. While durable, once breached it peels away more easily than Plasti-Dip.

What I did was wet-finger smear on 3 coats of the Almond version, using a hair dryer on cool setting between coats to speed drying. Night of and next day, the coating flexes very well and recovers from indenting. I could however break the surface with a freshly cut fingernail by pressing & then twisting. Once there is a tear, the edge can be pulled up without much resistance.

My method left very little texture, but it is fair to say that some texture left from the direction of smearing is inevitable.

Test unit took two types of paint (opposite sides) very well.

In summary, good for something that won't get battered much, and that you'd be ok with having a chosen directional 'grain'. As a strange plus, you'd always have the option of peeling off the finish to put on a different one.

A worthwhile test, but not suitable for a cosplay I plan to wear in a bar drunk. May try tearing away a painted section to see how a hypothetical repair job would work out.

Let me know if there are any questions!