TIE Advanced Build Log (Nice-N Base with Modifications)

There was no cap with the model. All the reference images seem to have used the bottom mounting point, so it’s not clear if there ever was a bottom cap.

This one was put together from some tank parts, and an engine part from a Euro Fighter. I think it matches the spirit well.
 
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Hi swmodelfan1977
Just a quick note vectorzero. Thanks for posting this, I just cant get the time on 2.5meg :)
The rear extension for the armature wasn't included in the kit. I made one up from some metal tube (I think 1 inch diameter) with an inserted 1/2 inch bolt welded in place for connecting to the main ally tube with a locking nut to secure it into position, and a 1/2 inch nut welded into the rear end. I could adjust the position of the tube/ bolt assembly to fit the body before welding it up. This took up any discrepancy and fitted without applying pressure to the cast resin.
You can just see it in the top right of this image, showing the bolt with locking nut against the main crossmember. Sorry for the lack of images on this issue.View attachment 848045
Cheers folks

Hi Flyscriber, Hi vectorzero,
Thank you for all responses.
Yes, it was not on the Steve’s introduction pics and video. Therefore just wanted to double confirm. Again thanks for kind reply.
I will consider how to make tail side support to absorb position difference of crossed screw threads as I don’t have welding tool.


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Absolutely stunning rework! Thank you so very much for providing such detailed information on your build - it will be very much appreciated when I start on mine.

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Although the specific shot was probably staged for the documentary, in The Making of Star Wars they show Vader's TIE being mounted on stage using the rear mount. FWIW.
 
Assuming TIE/TIE Interceptor/X-1 might have same bottom cap. Do you know parts ID or where it comes from?
TIE_Decal-3.jpg
Edit: Please refer to page 88 of Chronicles EP4,5 and 6 - Vehicles if you have.
 
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My understanding is that the cockpit of the TIE and the TIE X-1 are the same but I would defer to other experts on the forum for a definitive answer. I do have the Chronicles book so I’ll take a closer look. I can see a Panzer hatch or two in there...
 
Well I'll be....

kg_tantive-iv_blockade_runner-008.jpg

I wonder what the dodecagon (12 sided) shape could be. I see part D12 from the 8 Rad on the top of it. Maybe the gun base from the 88mm reduced in height?

DSC_0654.JPGDSC_0782 copy.jpg
 
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I wonder what the dodecagon (12 sided) shape could be. I see part D12 from the 8 Rad on the top of it. Maybe the gun base from the 88mm reduced in height?

I have no idea, sorry. I do suspect it's a kit part as it looks to be complex. I'd love to know what it is!
 
Anyone got a 1/48 Bandai FA-200 Aero Subaru to loan/sell/swap. The rear cover is a pain on this kit as its not a great moulding nor will paint stick to it.

Update:

~~Found one on eBay so we can finish the rear cover.
 
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Great build log, and beautiful work! I am wishing that I had ground my armature instead of the cockpit now.

So strange and frustrating about the paint issue. I also purchased mine in December of 2017 but I haven't had a bit of an issue with primer sticking to the model. All I did to mine was soak all of my parts in TSP, scrubbed down with a tooth brush and then a rinse in water, and then a final wipe with 91% alcohol. I used Tamiya Fine surface primer, and then I let the primer cure for about 2 weeks (not on purpose, I just haven't had a chance to paint yet) I just tested several areas all over the kit and my primer is locked down.

It looks like you finally got it worked out, but man, that would make me want to quit!
 
The kit is very well made and reflects the (sparse) reference photos well. The finish is a sandy texture unlike a very smooth model from Mike Salzo (my only other reference point in this type of kit.)

The first step is to remove all pour stubs, and then sand all the body and wing panels with progressively finer grit up to 800 grade.

Many of the separately supplied surface details and the various detailed pits also exhibit this texture. A fair amount of time has to go to cleaning these up before the any assembly starts.

There is some work to do to ensure the top and bottom halves fully align. There are big keys to ensure alignment of the hull halves. However, most of the keys are actually too large for their corresponding holes, so a lot of trimming is needed to get the halves to fit perfectly. Some alignment tabs had to be removed completely to allow for manual alignment during final glueing.

The top and bottom cockpit holes also need to be opened up gradually to ensure a good interference fit with proper alignment.

First of all VectorZero...a really nice thread- Thanks!
Regarding the bad fit of the fuselage components: I am surprised, and disappointed to hear.
I know the 3D printed masters had a perfect fit with male & female keys. The alignment of the top and bottom halves was spot on. I can only surmise the must have been some undetected distortion/shrinkage in the casting. The larger "male" alignment pegs deliberately had some "wiggle" room (.014" inches) to allow for adjusting the alignment. The smaller pegs (near the front) had a tighter margin but were tapered. The gap between male an female started at .03" closing to .0026". This creates a fit like that of a snap-tight kit. All of these tolerances are above the resolution of the stereolithography.
I can not account for the "sand" texture. That too, must have happened in the casting process.
Like you I am a perfectionist. I am sorry you had to go to so much trouble to make adjustments and corrections.
 
Shopping for threaded rod, you mentioned the threads on the armature were 1/2 UNF is it 1/2 20 or 1/2 13?
 
There was no cap with the model. All the reference images seem to have used the bottom mounting point, so it’s not clear if there ever was a bottom cap.

This one was put together from some tank parts, and an engine part from a Euro Fighter. I think it matches the spirit well.
These three shots show the model with the bottom mount in place.
Cinefantastic22.jpg Cinefantastic23.jpg Cinefantastic48.jpg
 
Wow. Those are amazing photos. I've never seen them before. Thank you.

I just got the Japanese Chronicles book, and there are some fantastic shots of the X-1. Including a really clear on of the bottom hatch on page 88.
IMG_0971.jpg
 
Hey guys, here's something you may not have seen, or maybe you have.
I never got around to finishing this build until now, as i am building a SS wing man Tie which is almost ready for its final weathering and decals, and I needed the two models to have the same overall feel to the paint.
I have been looking for the decals for the top hatch on the X1. Most of the SS decal sheets feature the goodyear logo as everyone knows. But on the Vader X1 there are different markings.
During our build (myself and vectorzero) it became obvious that we needed a new rear mounting point cover, one for when the lower mount is used without a hole, and one with a hole for the rear mount. So two different Aero Subaru kits were purchased as well as the other original kits for the tank track guards and the small "fingers" to make a master mould of the rear cap. A done and looking good.
on closer inspection I found that the decal sheet on the Aero Subaru Bandai version (the kit with the correct lower wing) had some markings which I though could be the ones used on the original. See what you think.

Unfortunately I made a bit of a mistake when applying this decal, so I needed to cobble it together (fix it) from a couple of other bits which is why the final image shows a slightly different decal !! .
It is super close I think, close enough for me to live with.
But I am pretty sure this kit could be the origin of this decal. I bet that's old news to everyone out there except me :)
heres a coupe of images.
subaru boxes.jpg
bandai subaru.jpg
bandai wing.jpg
bandai decal sheet.jpg
vader decal size.jpg
vader decal cut out.jpg
vader top decal.jpg
 

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