Arc Reactor "Prototype" Build

Lycaon

New Member
This is my first post on TheRPF, so forgive me and please let me know if I've broken any of the site's guidelines.

I had originally wanted to recreate the original Arc Reactor; however, I couldn't find enough images that I would be comfortable with using as reference. So I decided to create a variant of the first arc reactor, so screen-accuracy wouldn't be a major concern. I based my model from a post on DeviantArt by user "stntoulouse" and imported it into Fusion360 to begin modelling.
iron_man___stark_industries_arc_reactor_by_stntoulouse-d8eewjb.png
After much procrastination and far more time than I care to admit, I was able to come up with a model that I was somewhat happy with. The next step is to think about internal electronics and how it all fits together, and after that 3D printing, painting and assembly.
Screen Shot 2018-09-19 at 1.56.33 PM.png
If anyone can offer some advice or constructive criticism I would be more than grateful. (This also happens to be my first 'prop build').
 
I have now made a hollow cavity for most of the wiring and the power supply with a threaded bottom section to allow for the batteries to be replaced.
Screen Shot 2018-09-20 at 8.20.09 PM.png
I've also added holes to fit in 5mm super-bright LEDs and added channels to guide the terminals which will then be soldered in place. Hopefully the 10 'electro-magnetic brushes' will help to diffuse the LEDs.
Screen Shot 2018-09-20 at 8.21.05 PM.pngScreen Shot 2018-09-20 at 8.27.43 PM.png
 
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Well, my 3D printer just broke down... Perfect timing.
Does anyone with a CR-10 know what to do when the printer shutsdown randomly after a couple of seconds/minutes of being powered on?
 
It is really difficult to give any suggestions on what could be the issue without more information.

How old is the printer, how many hours on it and has anything similar ever happened in the past?
I guess check the obvious:
Is it completely dead?
Check main power to the printer?
Internal fuse?
If it is the fuse, did something happen to cause it to blow?
etc.

.
 
What was your error message?
Are you using Octopi?
Gently try adjusting your bed wires around.
Have you ever upgraded the firmware or is still stock?
 
There's no error message, Im just using the stock firmware, inserting an sd card in with the gcode, and I highly doubt its a fuse because it can still turn on.
 
Im sorry, I didn't know how to set up my post as a response to your earlier replies.

What was your error message?
Are you using Octopi?
Gently try adjusting your bed wires around.
Have you ever upgraded the firmware or is still stock?

It is really difficult to give any suggestions on what could be the issue without more information.

How old is the printer, how many hours on it and has anything similar ever happened in the past?
I guess check the obvious:
Is it completely dead?
Check main power to the printer?
Internal fuse?
If it is the fuse, did something happen to cause it to blow?
etc.

.
 
Hi Lycaon:

Since this was your post
"Does anyone with a CR-10 know what to do when the printer shutsdown randomly after a couple of seconds/minutes of being powered on?"
It seamed as though your printer shut down with no power. My mistake.

Anyway, have you discovered the issue with your printer and can you reboot (turn off and back on) and it will still print?
How long have you been using this printer and does this happen often?

.
 
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Hi Lycaon:

Since this was your post
"Does anyone with a CR-10 know what to do when the printer shutsdown randomly after a couple of seconds/minutes of being powered on?"
It seamed as though your printer shut down with no power. My mistake.

Anyway, have you discovered the issue with your printer and can you reboot (turn off and back on) and it will still print?
How long have you been using this printer and does this happen often?

.

It seems to run without random shutdowns when I run the GCode directly from my laptop, but not from an SD card. However, I have noticed issues with my prints after the shutdown glitch as to beforehand. I'm not sure how to this relates, but I haven't moved or altered anything physically or digitally (ie. profiles). I think it is now under-extruding, but I'm not entirely sure.
IMG_1716.JPGIMG_1717.JPGIMG_1718.JPG
Before ----------------------------------------- After

If anyone can suggest what changes I need to make to the profile settings, I'll be very grateful.
 
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Are you printing PLA and at what temperature is the nozzle?

Have you ever changed the Bowden tube, there could be a partial clog in the line from the filament,
through the Extruder and Bowden to the heated nozzle?

The Extruder gear may need cleaning (could be slippage)...

Is your table still level, parallel with nozzle and at the correct distance?
 
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Are you printing PLA and at what temperature is the nozzle?

Have you ever changed the Bowden tube, there could be a partial clog in the line from the filament,
through the Extruder and Bowden to the heated nozzle?

The Extruder gear may need cleaning (could be slippage)...

Is your table still level, parallel with nozzle and at the correct distance?

I'm printing PLA at 200°c , I haven't moved the printer or anything so I wouldn't expect the bed to 'un-level' its self. I'll check the gearing, if not, change the retraction and print speed?
 
If you have a CR10, you should always verify your bed level periodically.
It is however a mechanical device that needs to have the moving parts checked after so many hours of use.
Also, see if you have a clog some where. This also happens periodically.
I heat my PLA to 210C and print on a normal room temperature bed @ 27C.
 
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Despite the issues with my printer, I'm soldiering on. I've applied a rattle-can auto body filler primer, done a quick sand and sprayed on some 'aluminium' paint to see how it looks.

IMG_1744.JPGIMG_1742.JPG

In regards to the printer issues, the random shutdowns can be averted if I print via USB. I reformatted the SD card but the issue persists, perhaps its a voltage regulation issue and by plugging it in to my computer I am supplying it with additional power through the USB. I have no idea, this is just speculation as I am definitely no electrician.
If anyone has had a similar issue with a CR-10 please let me know.
 
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Here's my build of the same thing:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=262747

There was a link that I found great for reference:
http://blog.heliumware.com/category/models/arcreactor/

I love the idea of the hollow main ring. That would have saved me a lot of heartache.

I just checked out your thread, and damn that was an amazing build, you absolutely nailed it. I could never get that exterior black cage thing to look right when I modelled it, so I settled with this alternate design.
 
IMG_1754.JPGIt's been a while... I've nearly printed everything, all I have to finish printing are the 'clear' pieces. I'm gonna try printing with a transparent PLA. I'm not sure how well that'll turn out, if anyone has dabbled with this material, let me know how it turned out with your prints. If worse comes to worse, it may mean I'll have to resort to silicone and resin, a medium that I've never used before.
 
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IMG_1755.jpgIMG_1757.jpgI may have forgotten to mention that this first print is just a test, to see how everything fits together so I can make some adjustments to the print and the finish. It's a good thing too, because I noticed the 'braces' holding everything together didn't clip onto the main body as nicely as I had hoped, I also did a lousy job filling in the print lines and painting some of the pieces. I'm also going to increase the wall thickness of the semi-transparent parts to hopefully hide the infill a bit better.
 
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