3D printed Scout Trooper Helmet

Deetz

Active Member
My finished Scout Trooper helmet, printed on my Makergear printer. Lot's of sanding and bondo on this one with all of the sections I printed. The overhangs on the dome needed a ton of support so I used a few more sections to save on material. I built the helmet in Modo and I used simplyfy3D to print it.

The last 3 images are a couple of renders from Modo of the model. I didn't print the vocoder, though it's shown on the render. It was just easier to buy an aerator for a faucet and paint it. Anyway, this is the finished helmet, all polished up.

scout_trooper_01.jpgscout_trooper_02.jpgscout_trooper_03.jpgscout_trooper_04.jpgscout_trooper_05.jpgscout_trooper_06.jpgscout_trooper_07.jpgscout_trooper_08.jpgscout_trooper_09.jpg
 
Thanks all! :)

One of my favorite costumes from the '80s movies.Thanks for sharing this! It looks awesome

I think a Snow Trooper will be my next classic. I can use the helmet to make an Infantry helmet as well as per General Veers. I think they have the same helmet in Solo A Star Wars story, so another version there as well for the display :D :facepalm So many options!
 
Wow. I wish my painted prints would look like that. :rolleyes
Great work!

Any advice on using the bondo filler on the detailed parts?
I tend to loose the sharp edges working with fillers on 3D prints...
 
Wow. I wish my painted prints would look like that. :rolleyes
Great work!

Any advice on using the bondo filler on the detailed parts?
I tend to loose the sharp edges working with fillers on 3D prints...

Thanks, Scide :)

I don't use Bondo on detailed areas, only to smooth out large areas, like the dome section of the helmet where printed pieces don't align. My method for detailed areas, such as the nose piece on the Scout Trooper, is to print it with ABS, normally I use PLA for everything, then give it an acetone wash. This will smooth it out nicely but will also round of the edges. So the next step is to get out my small files and start squaring all of the edges again.

Another alternative I use is to print in PLA and start sanding with 120 grit, then 180 grit. After that, I use a mixture of baby powder and crazy glue to fill in small spots. It dries incredibly fast and is much more durable, and fills better than spot putty. Then once again I bring out the small files and sand it.

It takes time, there is no fast easy method, short of buying a Formlabs SLS printer. When prices are better, for a hobbyist such as myself, an SLS printer is on the list of must-haves.

Hope this helps!
 
What size printer bed did you use? I'd like to print this helmet, but my printer bed is only 220x220x250.
 
Thanks, Scide :)

I don't use Bondo on detailed areas, only to smooth out large areas, like the dome section of the helmet where printed pieces don't align. My method for detailed areas, such as the nose piece on the Scout Trooper, is to print it with ABS, normally I use PLA for everything, then give it an acetone wash. This will smooth it out nicely but will also round of the edges. So the next step is to get out my small files and start squaring all of the edges again.

Another alternative I use is to print in PLA and start sanding with 120 grit, then 180 grit. After that, I use a mixture of baby powder and crazy glue to fill in small spots. It dries incredibly fast and is much more durable, and fills better than spot putty. Then once again I bring out the small files and sand it.

It takes time, there is no fast easy method, short of buying a Formlabs SLS printer. When prices are better, for a hobbyist such as myself, an SLS printer is on the list of must-haves.

Hope this helps!


Wow, this actually helps a lot! Thanks for the detailed answer. :)
Never really thought about sanding the acetone treated parts... Good thing I already have an ABS optimized printer.
Looks like I have to put more effort in getting the acetone treatment right. It tends to get messy so fast. :lol
 
Nice finishing on that!!!

You can try corn starch instead of baby powder. If flows better and hardens slower (still plenty fast to work quickly). I swear by it! Again, really nice work on this!
 
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