Mr Mold Maker
Master Member
Hey folks. Another thread for something I painted. I wanted to timelapse myself finishing this one.. and then I didn’t! I forgot to take photos as well, but I did write some notes along the finishing process.
To start with, here is before.
Credit where it’s due, Trick or Treat Studios delivered an absolutely killer mask right out of the box. I almost decided to leave it “stock.” This beautiful sculpture by the insanely talented Mikey Rotella just needed a little bit of love, so I decided to crack open the forever trustworthy Tim Gore’s Bloodline.
I hit it with acetone to clean it and strip off any paint that I could. A quick pass of brown Rubber Cement paint to act as a primer and level out any areas that weren’t stripped.
I mixed up a military green and brushed it on to the helmet. Finally, I mixed a nice fleshly red and base coated the gums and tongue.
I set the rubber cement base aside for later, and grabbed my Bloodline paints.
The first order of business was mottling. Thinned out colors, low PSI, gently airbrushed with a trembling hand. I lovingly refer to it as “crack hands” if that’s not PC, I apologize. The goal is to get random patterns, some folks like figure 8’s, some people compare it to doodling little worms. I just like to let my wrist go and tremble around.
First up was red, then brown. Later on, I did purple as well.
After mottling was done, I wanted to punch up the fleshtones a little. I used a very thinned out yellow and then a thinned out Vile Green to lightly sponge on to the high points. Using a clean sponge to gently blend back. This is similar to drybrushing, just a little more subtle and without directionality. I went over this layer with more red and some purple, and finally the flesh was done. The gums were straight forward. Some red and purple mottling, very fine red veins. The tongue got the same treatment but with some white and yellow fatty pads added to some high points.
The helmet was fun. I stippled a lighter green in areas, followed by a few rust tones and some spattering with a toothbrush and thinned paints. The exposed metal was done with Liquitex Heavy Body acrylics.
The eyes were basecoated a Tan color with Rubber cement paint. I airbrushed the pupils first, and then used brown to paint the iris. I gently filled in the remainder of the eye with Injury Ochre (yellow) before adding the veins with Blood Red. I used a super fine liner brush with white paint to make the eyes striations. I lightly misted it back with brown, and then repeated this a few times. On my last layer, I added just a hint of blue around the pupil. The eyes and mouth were glossed with 5 minute epoxy with a drop of purple tint (to prevent yellowing) and then the mask was finished!
Without further ado, here is the finished repaint of the Trick or Treat Studios WARMONGER!
As always, apologies for not taking more photos. I really dropped the ball there. I hope there is some useful information in here for someone, and if there is anything you’re curious about, please don’t hesitate to ask.
Thanks as always.
Jack
To start with, here is before.
Credit where it’s due, Trick or Treat Studios delivered an absolutely killer mask right out of the box. I almost decided to leave it “stock.” This beautiful sculpture by the insanely talented Mikey Rotella just needed a little bit of love, so I decided to crack open the forever trustworthy Tim Gore’s Bloodline.
I hit it with acetone to clean it and strip off any paint that I could. A quick pass of brown Rubber Cement paint to act as a primer and level out any areas that weren’t stripped.
I mixed up a military green and brushed it on to the helmet. Finally, I mixed a nice fleshly red and base coated the gums and tongue.
I set the rubber cement base aside for later, and grabbed my Bloodline paints.
The first order of business was mottling. Thinned out colors, low PSI, gently airbrushed with a trembling hand. I lovingly refer to it as “crack hands” if that’s not PC, I apologize. The goal is to get random patterns, some folks like figure 8’s, some people compare it to doodling little worms. I just like to let my wrist go and tremble around.
First up was red, then brown. Later on, I did purple as well.
After mottling was done, I wanted to punch up the fleshtones a little. I used a very thinned out yellow and then a thinned out Vile Green to lightly sponge on to the high points. Using a clean sponge to gently blend back. This is similar to drybrushing, just a little more subtle and without directionality. I went over this layer with more red and some purple, and finally the flesh was done. The gums were straight forward. Some red and purple mottling, very fine red veins. The tongue got the same treatment but with some white and yellow fatty pads added to some high points.
The helmet was fun. I stippled a lighter green in areas, followed by a few rust tones and some spattering with a toothbrush and thinned paints. The exposed metal was done with Liquitex Heavy Body acrylics.
The eyes were basecoated a Tan color with Rubber cement paint. I airbrushed the pupils first, and then used brown to paint the iris. I gently filled in the remainder of the eye with Injury Ochre (yellow) before adding the veins with Blood Red. I used a super fine liner brush with white paint to make the eyes striations. I lightly misted it back with brown, and then repeated this a few times. On my last layer, I added just a hint of blue around the pupil. The eyes and mouth were glossed with 5 minute epoxy with a drop of purple tint (to prevent yellowing) and then the mask was finished!
Without further ado, here is the finished repaint of the Trick or Treat Studios WARMONGER!
As always, apologies for not taking more photos. I really dropped the ball there. I hope there is some useful information in here for someone, and if there is anything you’re curious about, please don’t hesitate to ask.
Thanks as always.
Jack
