He scored this vintage for the price of a replica, believe it
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The Best Graflex
- Thread starter NorthProds
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He scored this vintage for the price of a replica, believe it
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NorthProds
New Member
One lucky fella for sure, but.......... it's still very unlikely one of us will find one. Unless another person joins this thread and starts proving me wrong like you lolHe scored this vintage for the price of a replica, believe it
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They are out there, another member got one for a dollar not too long ago in a New York yard sale
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TheUnchosenOne
Active Member
I haven't seen any pop up on eBay the last few weeks and before that, when they were showing up they were going for at least $300. I think the cheapest I saw one go for was $350. My all-real parts ESB Graflex is still waiting on one, 3 months after I finished the rest of it.
NorthProds
New Member
Ok everyone, I have to ask...... Does anyone know what the original ESB circuit card in the clamp is? I have not found someone who knew. Any ideas though?
There is hundreds and thousands of posts on here all about theories and found parts
You should really use the search box and see what you come up with. I spent a lot of my free time using the search box and found a lot of my answers and great threads! There are some really good threads out there
Another thing you should really check out is Seth’s book, Seth took almost all the historic threads here and compiled them into a online book explaining everything! He is a great asset to this community
I can link his book tonight, but you can access it it the top section of this site (it’s a sticky) or from wannawannga’s site
Another great thing about Seth’s book is once new discovery’s are found he updates right away, he’s actually writing a new update now
But the search box really really helps
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Last one I saw had the kobold clip missing lol wonder where that went lol
Yeah he’s still hunting for one, seems like the kobolds that pop up at the wrong clip
350 isn’t bad, last one I saw sold for almost 700 if my memory is correct
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TheUnchosenOne
Active Member
Oh yeah, definitely seen a few that didn't have the right clip. I almost jumped on each of them before I realized the holes weren't in the right places
Thomas Guycott
Active Member
This thread honestly seems pretty redundant when considering that SethS’ lightsaber ebook is stuck at the top of the forum.
best tube you will get from Makerpropsudio.
for the grips, I would choose wannawanga.
For the bubble Rebelscum.
for the grips, I would choose wannawanga.
For the bubble Rebelscum.
NorthProds
New Member
I don't see how this thread can seem pointless, it's just us talking. That's fun. What's the point in starting a thread? Obviously it's not to just find out information because it's like 99% probable that the information can be found with some google searches. That's why we are on the RPF. It's the joy of communicating and researching with others. So to say that this thread is pointless is pointless. We are all geeks having fun!
Darth Lars
Master Member
Please post pictures in this thread comparing the two. I have seen neither up close and I'm curious. Stated opinions without getting into details are pretty useless.
Myself, I have genuine Graflex 2-cell top with Parks (Graflexshop?) v1 bottom and Roman's letter-less clamp. Oh, and with the black plastic pieces from a Graflex slave not a 2-cell or 3-cell so that I would some day have room for innards like in the Visual Dicitionary.
NorthProds
New Member
I'll try and work on it.Please post pictures in this thread comparing the two. I have seen neither up close and I'm curious. Stated opinions without getting into details are pretty useless.
Myself, I have genuine Graflex 2-cell top with Parks (Graflexshop?) v1 bottom and Roman's letter-less clamp. Oh, and with the black plastic pieces from a Graflex slave not a 2-cell or 3-cell so that I would some day have room for innards like in the Visual Dicitionary.
Just got this last week from an antique dealer who didn’t know what he had...
You asked for it!
Drew Baker
Sr Member
Photos of my Roman Props Gen2 and TGS Gen2 side by side. Roman's on the left, TGS on the right.
Roman's has machine marks, especially noticeable on the bulb clamp. The TGS is smoother and has a more accurate S curve -- but the TGS also has flat spots/divots on either side of the pulled shoulders for the glass eye and button.. The TGS ears have the least space I've seen between the bulb clamp and the tube where a reflector would clip on, where the Parks V1 and Roman's replicas were already too tight for a reflector to fit. The TGS sync pins stick out past the body tube. (Both replicas have slightly shallow sync ports, Roman uses shorter pins so they end in the right spot.) I really like Roman's approach to his red button on this: it has a good silhouette but fewer knurls. The right shape but details that show what it is makes it a replica and not a counterfeit.
The TGS clamp has more accurate text placement (in a slightly different type face) and bars, Roman's has altered text placement, and a more correctly sized lever. The TGS is stamped, Roman's is engraved.
The TGS bottom stamping could be forgery-accurate? I don't have a Folmer New York on hand to compare it to, but recall TGS talking about engraving the inside of the tube to mark it. Roman's has tells (and is pillowy and shiny).
Choosing between them, I would ask whether Roman's machine marks bother you, or if the depressions next to the shoulders on the TGS and long pins would bother you. To me those are the biggest flaws of each.
Edit: Since this post the pin issue has been resolved via updated plastic parts, and it's come to light that while the clamp included with Roman's flash is engraved, the "satin" clamp he offers separately is stamped.
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Ridire Firean
Sr Member
Thank you for the comparison Drew Baker ! Two more things I notice from your photos: the Roman's Sync Pins don't line up, and the TGS Bulb Clamp Band is way too loose!
The problem I have with TGS only altering their bottom tube by engraving the inside, is that it's inside! With all of the fuzzy photos on Ebay, how in the Force are people going to know if they're purchasing a real GRAFLEX or a replica? I think they should have followed suit with Roman and made theirs say "TRADE MARK REG.G.S.PAT.OFF." or "MADE BY THE FOLMER GRAFLEX SHOP", or both!
The trickier problem I think is going to be distinguishing parts like the GLASS EYE. When sold by themselves, there's not much else to go on to determine the legitimacy of the claims for that part to be genuine or not. With a little weathering, the TGS glass eye could easily pass for a GRAFLEX Glass Eye.
In these days of increasing accuracy in replica props.... buyer beware!
The problem I have with TGS only altering their bottom tube by engraving the inside, is that it's inside! With all of the fuzzy photos on Ebay, how in the Force are people going to know if they're purchasing a real GRAFLEX or a replica? I think they should have followed suit with Roman and made theirs say "TRADE MARK REG.G.S.PAT.OFF." or "MADE BY THE FOLMER GRAFLEX SHOP", or both!
The trickier problem I think is going to be distinguishing parts like the GLASS EYE. When sold by themselves, there's not much else to go on to determine the legitimacy of the claims for that part to be genuine or not. With a little weathering, the TGS glass eye could easily pass for a GRAFLEX Glass Eye.
In these days of increasing accuracy in replica props.... buyer beware!
Drew Baker
Sr Member
I agree. I'm sure manufacturers hear a steady beat of "make it more accurate!" and it must be hard to resist -- and may (inadvertently) lead to making counterfeits, rather than replicas.
Though I haven't paid much attention to the chrome style glass eyes, I have noticed the lenses are different depths. The Roman's lens comes nearly to to front of the bezel. The TGS lens is quite shallow, and the vintage lens is in the middle.
(I tried tightening the bunny ears on my TGS, but the sleeve for the screw seems to be just enough longer than the ears are deep that I can't get any friction on them. I'm sad about that.)
Ridire Firean
Sr Member
Perhaps a bit of sanding to shorten the length of the sleeve would give you the extra bit of pinch you need?
On yours, does the unattached side of the Bulb Holder Arms flop around inside the Bulb Holder Band? I think I'd try my hand at bending that around a bit more in order to keep the unattached Bulb Holder Arm in place. I think Micro-Mark has a little 3-roller bender that might do the trick, or just massage it with your fingers a bit on a dowel or something. I wonder if they didn't make the band out of spring steel, or if they simply didn't form it tightly enough?
JunkSabers1138
Sr Member
Sooooooo, the BEST route to take here is to make a Frankenstein Graflex combining the best parts between the two replicas?
For me, the biggest issue is which of the two is the most externally accurate so that it will look best when displayed on my desk after grafting on the the correct t-track, bubble strip, and D-ring clip, but I ALSO want a hilt that is FX compatible if I want to do an install down the line, and it seems that TGS is the only one that advertises itself as being able to do so. But that said, little details such as the pins and lever being inferior to the Roman model, judging by the above post's examples, would stick out like a sore thumb to me, knowing that they aren't perfect.
Uggh...
For me, the biggest issue is which of the two is the most externally accurate so that it will look best when displayed on my desk after grafting on the the correct t-track, bubble strip, and D-ring clip, but I ALSO want a hilt that is FX compatible if I want to do an install down the line, and it seems that TGS is the only one that advertises itself as being able to do so. But that said, little details such as the pins and lever being inferior to the Roman model, judging by the above post's examples, would stick out like a sore thumb to me, knowing that they aren't perfect.
Uggh...
Drew Baker
Sr Member
If you're going from a static to FX I think they're equal on that front. With either one you'll have to remove the internals, the shells have the same design, and blade holders designed for a vintage flash should fit either (as I understand it). Sounds like a wash to me. Edit: Removing an internal component on the TGS may be easier, I've since seen. I doubt it's a big enough difference to be a deterrent, but have no experience with it myself.
Personally, if I were to Frankenstein, I think replacing the ears on the Roman's with a TGS set would be the best bang for the buck.
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