Storm Trooper E-11 build (Deactivated Sterling)

Conqueror_Worm

Well-Known Member
I bought a storm trooper armor kit a couple years ago, but I haven't been brave enough to start that project, so I decided to start with the blaster. I'm shooting for a generic ANH E11.
I bought a deactivated Sterling L2A3 from Numrich Gun Parts. This is what they sent me:
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Bath time! (Heavy duty Easy-Off Oven Cleaner)
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Four torch cuts, but all the parts are there, they just need to be put back together.
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Look how they massacred my boy :(
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I picked up a hunk of "Cold Rolled Steel Round Tubing, 1-1/4" OD, 1.01" ID, 0.12" Wall" for making splices.
Front splice:
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Rear Splice:
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The middle area was tricky. I ended up using the trigger group as the splice and soldered the grip directly to it. I made some shims and drove those along side the bolt, and soldered bolt and shims into the receiver. The bolt doesn't move, but the selector moves and the trigger clicks.
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A little Stay-Brite Silver solder and some heat, and she is back in one piece! (minus the barrel)
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Next step is to make it pretty.
The original had a neat wrinkly black paint on it:
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Well, the one in that promo pic did, and I think it looks cool (only Sterlings exported from the UK had the wrinkle finish, the ones in the UK were smooth). I read that some people had good results with VHT Wrinkle Plus, so I tried that.
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I'm really happy with the way it turned out.

The tricky part is that this paint has to be baked at 200° F (93°C) to cure it. The silver solder joints would be fine, the curing temp is well below the melting point of the solder. The Bondo I bought to cover the solder joints was not going to handle that temp. After some research, I found that JB Weld can handle temps up to 500° F (260° C), so that's what I used as my filler.
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The wrinkle paint goes on glossy, then wrinkles as it dries:
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Ta da! The restored Sterling!
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The wrinkle paint also helps cover any mistakes in the filler job :D
 
Cool build! Why doesn't the bolt move? Does the rear shim stop it? Seems like it should come back a little!
The bolt is soldered and JB welded in place. Even if the bolt wasn't secured in place, the helical ribs on the bolt, and the shims between the bolt and tube, would prevent it from sliding back. I probably could have cut away parts of the bolt to make more room for the shims, but I couldn't bring myself to do that :/

M38 Scope kit and power cylinders from Field Marshall:
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The scope rail made from 1/8" thick, 3/4" wide steel stock (I wanted to make sure the scope didn't bounce). It is held in place with a screw through the rear sight hole, and a screw that clamps the rail to the tube:
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T-Track from WannaWanga:
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Hengstler and magazine from StarWarsCostumeProps (Hengstler number wheels were borrowed from a non-hengstler counter). Hengstler bracket made from aluminum angle stock and finished with aluminum black. Power cylinders are held in place with a rare earth magnet.
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Is that everything? I feel like I am forgetting something...
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I just accepted the challenge of doing this as well. Without having a TIG welder or other way to bond it I was apprehensive of tackling it. I had a similar idea, but you have inspired me my friend! Numrich de-activated Sterling is on its way!

Thank you for the inspiration!
 
I am thinking WannaWanga for the T-Track, do you have any suggestions on sourcing the Scope, Hengstler counter, and tubes?
 
Field Marshal for all your E-11 needs!!

Also, man, nice work! I wish my parts kit (bought years ago) was add complete as yours! I'd have to make a whole new tube, and without a proper mill, I'm not drilling all them holes!
 
Thanks guys!
I also recommend Field Marshal. I would have bought all my non-Sterling parts from him, but he wasn't offering the magazine and counter at the time.
 
I bought the kit and have been researching ATF rules on this. I think the above example is probably ok, but I am no attorney. See this guide:

Especially the following note:
"Note: a machinegun receiver that is not properly destroyed may still be classified as a machinegun, particularly in instances where the improperly destroyed receiver is possessed in conjunction with other component parts for the weapon."

It has the following rules for destroying destructive devices (not machine guns):
• Cut a hole, equal to the diameter of the bore, on a 90-degree angle to the axis of the bore, through one side of the barrel in the high pressure (chamber) area.
• Weld the barrel to the receiver of the weapon.
• Weld an obstruction into the barrel to prevent the introduction of a round of ammunition.

I thought you would be fine if you didn't have a working barrel, but that is not good enough. In your case, the bolt is welded in place, so it is probably good. There is just a question of being "readily restorable." There is some case law on that and the definition is not very clear.
 
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