Building a better DL44 scope

shokk

Active Member
I've looked at the metal DL-44 scopes and there expensive right?
I'm building a 3d printed DL-44 (second one) and the scopes look OK but it's missing glass for both ends.
So after a look around I came up with this.
The first photo is for all the glass for under a fiver[emoji57].
Second photo is all the parts I used.
Look closely and you'll see a torch lens which is held in with the insert rings.
The silver disk is a bit of an old CD to give that optical look.
3rd photo is with the CD insert and watch face.
4th and 5th are with the torch lens insert.
6th and 7th are of the front glass.
Finally my first DL-44, but the second will be better.
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Looks really nice for a 3d print!!

Can you tell us more about the C96 model?

Is it possible to print a replica of just the Mauser, and is it broken up into all the same parts as the real thing? How accurate is it? How long did it take to print?!

Man I wish I could 3d print metal!

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You can get a semi decent plastic one off of ebay for around $8.95 from China, not an airsoft but easier than doing a 3d print. This is what I did on the last build. I 3D printed all the parts except the C96. Trigger is a bit strange but you might be able to print a replacement. I was just too lazy to do so. I did have to cut a piece out of the front of c96 where the mag fits to fit the "heat sink" but the mag. will stil fit and is removable.
Search ebay for
WW2 MAUSER BROOMHANDLE C96 GERMAN AIRSOFT SPRING HAND GUN PISTOL
 
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I'm in the UK mate, ebay doesn't even show weapons like that, could always try other sites I suppose.

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Ahh, I see. I would try printing it in ABS if you are any good with it and then doing an Acetone vapor smoothing on it. Thats what I did on the parts and they came out very smooth almost no sanding. Lacking that try one of the epoxy kits they sell for overpainting 3D prints or a high filler primer and lots of sanding. I tried printing an AR lower last year and gave up on getting something that was anywhere near smooth. It can be done just takes lots of tweeking. I print at .1 and slow my speed down to get a smoother print. Tried a .2 nozzel but damn does it take forever to print. Printed the handles in wood pla on the one shown above, still ended up painting it as it was not too convencing a wood grain. I split the scope in 2 end to end to be sure that it printed well and acetone welded them in the middle, came out great. Found some glass 1/2 domes on amazon and did similar to what you did. I like the watch crystals better though. Nice job.
 

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Damn nice painting and weathering job on that print.

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OP, what printer are you using btw?
 
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