Fallout: Brotherhood of Steel Holotags

Depending on what resin you may or may not use to cast the blue part, I would use Smooth On's 'Ignite' series resin dyes. That's what I used on my glowing Nuka Rocket bottles. The blue would be perfect for this color blue (you can make it slightly lighter than I did the Quantum bottle). Uses UV light to glow, but you can use a bright white light as well.
 
I have done several gun and knife holsters using the gun/knife for the mold and heating up kydex and clamping a wood platten with fairly stiff foam used for motorcycle seats. It is not extreamly sharp but you could use a thinner plastic and get better resolution. 3d Print a mold then try to mold into or over it to try. A female mold might give sharper detail. Just keep the mold cool between pulls and it should work. Check youtube for info on how to. Phil has some good vids.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqqnWj4N7FUAV8y4PXQDj_Q
 
@JPH, the metal flattens back out under the rubber. I guess you could cut it without that feature, and glue it down to something. But I am a sticker for things that look and feel correct more than just look the part.

@GhostMinion. I wonder if anyone has mixed in glow-in-the-dark powder with their bright dyes to get both a bright day-light blue, and glow.

@Great_Bizarro: I have never heard of Kydex. A quick search shows it was designed specifically for forming. If that was used as a base behind a sheet of super-thin metal, the look might be achievable with at-home tools. (Or I can just get over my dislike of metal look paint)
 
they make a glow in the dark blue powder, just mix with clear resin very close to the color you posted blue.jpg
 
I scaled them based on the most common ball chain size. But that is difficult as ball chain actually come in all sizes.
I don't think they have to be the same size as real world dog tags, which is 2" long. After all if this were hanging on your power armor they would need to be larger anyways.

Also, at 75mm long, the fonts on the front as just 4pt. If it were 51mm long, then the fonts would be use 2.5pt which is difficult to even laser-etch that small.

If they have a battery and LED inside, they basically have to be that big at minimum. If it were made without electronics then it can be any size.

I haven't done a 3D print yet, I am waiting on my sister to tell me how complex she wants to make these.
 
I've got some Mold Max 60 to try a pewter cast. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Pewter is viable but pressing them would be easier.

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I had another thought, emboss them out of the thin clear polycarbonate used for RC car bodies paint it from the inside so you dont need a clear coat, leave just enough space for a coin cell and edge light a thin piece of clear plastic with a blue led to get the lighted effect. I dont know if you could match the blue of the screen shown with an led but you could use a white led and paint the inside of the molded part with a translucent blue to match. Print the tag silencer out of flex filament and use it hold both halves of the formed polycarbonate together.
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...v8D7EI_rWH2cD5Y5kBS7pcolAyJidGFcaAqtuEALw_wcB
 
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Pitched them in the tumbler this evening. I like the gun metal grey better than the polished look.
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The casting defects will work for the aging and the weight of the pewter feels very substantial. Zap I'll try a rubber pad "hydro-form" with a solid pewter cast and shim stock. Tell me if you want me to take this to another thread.
 
Not planning on making a run. I'm mostly experimenting with the fab techniques right now.

I think this says Joe Don Baker - which if so, is a funny easter egg. I really want the nickname to say Walking Tall because that's the movie he played Buford T Pusser but I can't squint my way to it. The brotherhood certainly walk tall. Maybe (Walking Tall) - its a stretch. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joe_Don_Baker

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I've been looking at the connector for the chain. I'm almost convinced the tags are upside down. A hole through the "bottom" makes more sense instead of a connector. The Fallout 3 tags are connected on the other end as are most other dog tags IRL.
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Laser cut a lens insert and etched it with a fingerprint on both sides. The acrylic is fluorescent blue 1/8". Two CR2016 batteries fit nicely but one would be fine.

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If two CR2016’s fit then put in a CR2032. The overall look is pretty close. I am not sure my sister is interested in making these anymore. If she does bow out I’ll release the files I have so you can make a more accurate version.

I agree the tag chain is essentially on the wrong end. Perhaps that will need some artistic license.
 
Thanks Zap, I still think pressing these is the way to go. After going through the iteration on soldering the connector on, I think the hole at the other end is the right way to go, pressed or cast. It'd just be faster.

Still looking at how to do the silencer with a multipart laser cut acrylic mold.
 
Delrin (Acetal) is a bit expensive but laser compatible and very easy to machine. It’s very close to Nylon in consistency and may make a good mold.

Note never laser cut Nylon.
 
I wound up laser cutting an acrylic "layer cake" mold. I'm experimenting with Sugru right now but pouring them may wind up easier. I've got a roll of ninja flex as a last resort. I took the artistic license on the mounting point too. I also spent time with LaserBond 100. It worked out ok for the aged look but I'd want to test it more for a pristine tag. That's two caps right there. Remaining to be done rust effect, silencer, and lenses for the window.

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Mach, Those looks pretty good so far. The sides are a bit steep to my eye. (I have mine at 45°)

I will be ordering a bunch of items from McMaster soon, I may go ahead and try ordering a few types of thin steel. I figure the metal can be extremely thin, if it has a cast or 3D printed backing.
 
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Hmm, you're thinking about 1/8" thick or thinner? I was going to bandsaw a blank out of carbon steel but figured I'd test it first. The one on the left was moderate amount of pressure using a urethane block - the one on the right was really cranked down on. Note the grooves in the key starting to show. I'm using a HF twenty ton press. The material is a piece of a paint can. My digital calipers says 0.01" thickness.
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The silencer came out just ok. A misalignment in the mold keys shifted it slightly on one side. The color is decent too. I see that Form Labs has a flexible resin now. Has anyone tried it?

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